Flatlander’s 1974 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Dropped my IPhone today and shattered the screen. Took the truck to the Apple Store and when I was leaving thought this pic looked cool.

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Took the shock boots off. Lots of interesting stuff inside. Changed the oil in the F&R diff's. They were both full and the oil didn't look too bad :cautious:

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It's a good measure replacing all fluids since you don't know what the PO did, money well spent.

Keep up the great work!
 
Went ahead and drained & filled transfer case. Material on the full plug looks suspicious. The trans case was a little low....I've got a small leak somewhere.

Speedy sleeve has been installed along with a new seal. Either my speedo needs the double seal or I need to do the tranny fill plug to trans fill plug jump mod, or both?

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That is a beauty! Are you considering painting your roof white? It is one of the signatures of the 40...

Next on the list ;) Another PO "mod" :bang:

Going T O P L E S S very soon. Plan to have finished by the end of the summer.
 
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Getting ready to address the surface rust in the back and drivers side floorboard. I do have 2 small holes in the floorboard that need welded/patched. Reading up on Ospho & Mastercoat. @ginmtb is it as simple as cleaning & prepping, picking a product to invert the surface rust, then rattle can with 309?

I keep her in the garage and frequently wash and wax.

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Getting ready to address the surface rust in the back and drivers side floorboard. I do have 2 small holes in the floorboard that need welded/patched. Reading up on Ospho & Mastercoat. @ginmtb is it as simple as cleaning & prepping, picking a product to invert the surface rust, then rattle can with 309?

I keep her in the garage and frequently wash and wax.

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I have three different products I use for different applications:

- Rust Doctor
- Master Coat
- POR15

Surface prep is the key in any application. I have to tell myself not to be lazy and do it the right way. I think Master Coat requires the least prep for a top coat/encapsulating rust treatment. It is thick and can fill pits and then you can sand to a pretty smooth finish and paint. POR15 I tend to use on the undercarriage where things will stay black and aren't subject to much UV. Rust Doctor is very liquid so I use that where I may need to swish it around or have a hard time getting to it with a brush.
 

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