gotta read man. can't just hop in a 4 year old post with no frame of reference. it's been covered.
FLAT TOW A 200??? ARE YOU CRAZY??? I AM! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jkilcullen
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
gotta read man. can't just hop in a 4 year old post with no frame of reference. it's been covered.
Wouldn't be practical for my use case. Would be doing this every few days sometimes every couple of days. Looking like the 200 may have to go but want to exhaust all options before I go that route.
Anyone know what the ramifications of towing with transfer case engaged, transmission in Neutral and vehicle idling might be?
I would be curious to at least know what the price range looks like. I really don't want to give up the LX so I'd be willing to spend a little coin. Are we talking a couple grand here or like $10k+?
Saw you stil
See my post above on the shifting into Neutral. The directions are incorrect, but I had actually done this accidentally a couple years ago so I thought I might know the Secret to the Lexus Konami code. Directions tell you to shift into L4 then back into H4. Then put the truck in park. You actually put it in L4, then as you flip back to H4 you throw it in park before the transfer case can click back into H4.
You'll get a very angry tone letting you know you were successful and a light on the dash. Re-engaging is simple. Just go back into Neutral and toggle back to H4 and it will engage. You can start, restart, shift through the gears etc and it will remain in Neutral.
Would putting the transfer case in neutral, leaving the vehicle idling while in tow, and in gear be a potential work around? Transfer case is internally uncoupled from tranny but input shaft would still be spinning and getting some splash lube?
How do you tow your 100? T-Case in Nuetral and truck in ignition on, but not running. Or do you leave the truck idling while in tow? If it IS idling, do you leave it in Park, Neutral or in Gear?
Currently wondering if there IS a concern about the T-Case oil pump not being driven by the input shaft while in tow, would leaving the truck idling and in gear be a solution? Input shaft would still be spinning and driving the oil pump. Tranny is internally de-coupled... in my head this seems like a potentially viable solution but I am no expert in this field.
- Thread starter
- #87
Can't speak for Muddy Bean but everyone I know towing 100's and how I towed my 80 was truck off, key turned to On or ACC or on then off and key left in (different for different models, just to keep steering unlocked) T-Case in Neutral and Transmission in Park.
My understanding is that the 200 series t-case is of different design and thus the concern.
Thanks for the reply!
My other concern is since the 200 is a pushbutton start I cannot leave the key in the column in the unlocked position. If I turn the vehicle to the "Ignition On" position (But not running) this unlocks the steering column and turns on accessory power. I am wondering however if there any sort of time-out or low battery shut off. Would hate to be flying down the highway and have it decide to turn itself off and lock the steering column.
Today I will test this. I'll put the truck in the ignition on position, shut off the lights, AC, etc so I'm not killing the battery and let it sit for several hours and see if the steering column is still unlocked when I return.
- Thread starter
- #89
Being on with lights off will still have a significant drain on battery. I would do what I have done on my Wranglers, turn key on for steering unlock and pull negative battery cable. Hopefully removing power while on and steering unlocked, leaves it unlocked. I'll be taking you to dinner on your travels through Chicagoland one day if you happen to get this working and reliable LOL! I just haven't made the time to look into it any more.
- Thread starter
- #90
Not taking any credit for damage done to components, for removing power to car while turned on.... Just a thought. A more permanent fix could be removal of steering lock all together.
Hmm, that's an interesting idea. I'll test this out!
Well this is hardly conclusive testing but I did take advantage of the empty streets and did some testing today.
I put the T-Case in neutral, transmission in park and strapped up to another vehicle and towed the LX around. I left the vehicle ON to keep the steering wheel unlocked but the engine was not running. I was in the car the entire time to apply brakes and abort the test if anything bad happened.
We towed about 4 miles through residential streets then got on the highway and towed at 70MPH+ for 22 miles then another 3 miles back through residential streets.
I didn't have an IR thermometer to test so I just used my hand, the T-Case was maybe slightly warmer than ambient but certainly not hot to the touch anywhere I could get my hand. When I started the LX and put the transmission back in Neutral it instantly shifted into 4H without issue. Shifted back into 4 Low without issue. Drove it around in 4H and 4L. No issues, no warning lights.
Towing a vehicle at highway speeds with a tow strap was probably not a great idea and I only did it because we had a completely empty highway to test on. I would have liked to do 50+ miles but the experience was a bit nerve wracking and given the results I don't think anything would have changed. Probably not going to grenade your T-Case in 50 miles, but 500 miles, 5000 miles who knows? I will soon!
So I think the only thing I really learned is if you need to recover your 200 series and want to tow it a few miles at low speeds with the T-Case in Neutral you are probably just fine if mine didn't mind 22 miles at 70+ MPH.
I just ordered the Blue Ox base plate and will be installing soon.
I put the T-Case in neutral, transmission in park and strapped up to another vehicle and towed the LX around. I left the vehicle ON to keep the steering wheel unlocked but the engine was not running. I was in the car the entire time to apply brakes and abort the test if anything bad happened.
We towed about 4 miles through residential streets then got on the highway and towed at 70MPH+ for 22 miles then another 3 miles back through residential streets.
I didn't have an IR thermometer to test so I just used my hand, the T-Case was maybe slightly warmer than ambient but certainly not hot to the touch anywhere I could get my hand. When I started the LX and put the transmission back in Neutral it instantly shifted into 4H without issue. Shifted back into 4 Low without issue. Drove it around in 4H and 4L. No issues, no warning lights.
Towing a vehicle at highway speeds with a tow strap was probably not a great idea and I only did it because we had a completely empty highway to test on. I would have liked to do 50+ miles but the experience was a bit nerve wracking and given the results I don't think anything would have changed. Probably not going to grenade your T-Case in 50 miles, but 500 miles, 5000 miles who knows? I will soon!
So I think the only thing I really learned is if you need to recover your 200 series and want to tow it a few miles at low speeds with the T-Case in Neutral you are probably just fine if mine didn't mind 22 miles at 70+ MPH.
I just ordered the Blue Ox base plate and will be installing soon.
- Thread starter
- #93
Well on the docket today will be finally getting mine into neutral to confirm a '13 plus can be tricked with the updated instructions shared. Thanks for having bigger balls than I and for sharing an experience you're likely to be judged for by others.
I figured it might ruffle some feathers but thought sharing my findings are worth it as I know lots of people have been wanting to flat tow their 200's but there is just no real world data and who wants to risk and expensive vehicle? I guess I do lol
Should have the following arriving in a few days:
BX3772 Blue Ox Base Plate
NSA RV Products RB-9050 Ready Brute Elite Tow Bar
NSA RV Products Blue Ox Adapter Clevis Kit
NSA RV Products Ready Brake Emergency Brake Harness Kit
I haven't even started looking into the best options for lights and electrical. Anyone have recommendations here?
- Thread starter
- #95
Totally agree, thanks, as for lighting I also haven't looked that far but e trailer sells generic light harnesses with diodes integrated I've used in the past with great ssuccess. I doubt there is a factory plug in solution. But trailer would be the ones to help if there is. Let us know what you find.
I wonder if you could wire up a 7 pin harness from the tow vehicle and connect it to the 7 pin harness on the LC. I don't know if there's a diode which would prevent current flowing backwards, but it's my understanding that the LC 7-pin harness is actually wired to the lights, not controlled via CANBUS or an ECU. You'd need 2 harnesses and about 25' of wire to do so
Now that is interesting.... would be easy enough to test, but I have zero knowledge of this so a little trepidation on injecting power into the harness. I assume there is really very little risk as it's normally powered anyways. Would hate to be that guy that toasted his transfer case AND fried his electronics!
Fair enoughNow that is interesting.... would be easy enough to test, but I have zero knowledge of this so a little trepidation on injecting power into the harness. I assume there is really very little risk as it's normally powered anyways. Would hate to be that guy that toasted his transfer case AND fried his electronics!
For lights the easiest answer is probably just to tap into the tail, brake, and turn sign lights with vampire taps. You could still wire that to the 7-pin wiring harness on the tow vehicle to make it easy to connect/disconnect. You won't need the 12V power wire. Whether you bother with reverse is up to you.
Keep in mind doing this means you're also bypassing any "trailer" (towed vehicle) electric brake assistance... whether you're OK with that is your call, but in some states I believe you're required for any trailer greater than a certain weight to have it's own brakes. I've not towed a vehicle "4 down" before but I would assume there are electric-over-hydraulic actuation kits that you probably should install in your LC if you're going to do this regularly
The tow bar setup I am using has a surge brake that actuates a cable that runs into the towed vehicle, through the firewall and engages the brake pedal in the Toad so no worries there. I can confirm from my previous testing that the LX570 brake are plenty strong even without hydraulic assist.
Last edited:
RET2
SILVER Star
Not to be anti but just putting it on a trailer would solve everything. Sure no brain twisting hand wringing and towing is towing. Life is challenging enough without creating issues at least for me. Trailer equals no brake or lights issue and you could even get it home if you broke while wheeling. Just an old geezer's thoughts.
