Flashing Center Diff Lock Light 200 Series (11 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

It will be interesting to see if the replacement actuator fails, but I believe (and hope!) that it won’t. There are 200’s all over the place down here and only a small proportion suffer from the “CDL light flashing” disease.
The failures are absolutely consistent but relatively uncommon. As you could guess I spent quite a bit of time trawling the web for posts about the issue, and I haven’t seen a post from someone who has experienced it after an actuator replacement. Maybe Toyota has sorted the problem on the replacement part, or maybe it is exactly the same as the original fit and it is just good luck. Good luck with yours, Tony

The issues are common and systemic. Unfortunately, given enough time, I can't confidently say you won't see the issue again.

These problems are not only isolated to the 200-series, but they are also seen in Tundras and Sequoias, which are closely related in design. From the FSM, it shows that Toyota redesigned it multiple times across the generation of 200-series. But that hasn't seemed to fix the core issues as it's been reported in as late as 2015 models. Anyone know if this has been seen in later 2016+ models?

 

[graham5david]

The issues are common and systemic. Unfortunately, given enough time, I can't confidently say you won't see the issue again.

These problems are not only isolated to the 200-series, but they are also seen in Tundras and Sequoias, which are closely related in design. From the FSM, it shows that Toyota redesigned it multiple times across the generation of 200-series. But that hasn't seemed to fix the core issues as it's been reported in as late as 2015 models. Anyone know if this has been seen in later 2016+ models?

Happens in my wife's 16 on occasion

 

[Tonytbts]

The issues are common and systemic. Unfortunately, given enough time, I can't confidently say you won't see the issue again.

These problems are not only isolated to the 200-series, but they are also seen in Tundras and Sequoias, which are closely related in design.

That is disappointing to learn!

I am slightly comforted by the fact that since the failure is more common than I understood, that in fact makes it more likely that Toyota will have to repair it as an out of warranty repair once again. When many of the Aussie Prado’s suffered cracked dash pads Toyota replaced them up to 7 years old.

I plan to keep the Cruiser for a long time, so I will get a chance to learn whether the actuator has been fixed for good. Cheers, Tony

 

[afgman786]

turned the 200 on this morning to flashing CDL and had OBD Fusion hooked it this is the code I got.

 

[Sac Cerevisiae]

turned the 200 on this morning to flashing CDL and had OBD Fusion hooked it this is the code I got.
View attachment 2426363

Mice?

 

[afgman786]

Mice?

I've never had mice issues around the house.. issue has been going on randomly since I've purchased 200, more so posted for another data point.

But do plan on removing all skids and seeing if I've got loose connection or anything. The only way I've been able to engage CDL is I have to hold the traction control button to turn everything off then try and engage CDL.

 

[linuxgod]

C1268 seems related. It's part of the VSC section in the FSM, oddly

The problem symptoms table is quite broad:

Here's the doc for the transfer position switch. This one is relatively easy to test, as compared to the actuator which required removal from the transfer case to test or else you'll break the unit.

Not sure about the other code (or if that's just stored from a prior startup).

Here are the diagrams of the Transfer System circuit, btw:

 

[afgman786]

C1268 seems related. It's part of the VSC section in the FSM, oddly

View attachment 2429695

The problem symptoms table is quite broad:
View attachment 2429698

Here's the doc for the transfer position switch. This one is relatively easy to test, as compared to the actuator which required removal from the transfer case to test or else you'll break the unit.

View attachment 2429704

Not sure about the other code (or if that's just stored from a prior startup).

Here are the diagrams of the Transfer System circuit, btw:

View attachment 2429688
View attachment 2429689

Thanks for posting all that from the FSM. Another thing I noticed is that the OBD2 reader was left plugged in over night. Had the same issue happen again later that day, then remembered that maybe the reader is causing issues. One time it had made ABS turn on, VSC and other lights and freaked me out (the OBD2 reader was half way in that time)

Next day made sure the reader wasn't left plugged in and no issues.

However, I have had issues in the past engaging CDL if traction control and VSC are still enabled. It does not turn those off successfully then engage CDL. I have to personally hold the traction control button to disengage everything first, then can engage CDL.

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks for posting all that from the FSM. Another thing I noticed is that the OBD2 reader was left plugged in over night. Had the same issue happen again later that day, then remembered that maybe the reader is causing issues. One time it had made ABS turn on, VSC and other lights and freaked me out (the OBD2 reader was half way in that time)

Next day made sure the reader wasn't left plugged in and no issues.

However, I have had issues in the past engaging CDL if traction control and VSC are still enabled. It does not turn those off successfully then engage CDL. I have to personally hold the traction control button to disengage everything first, then can engage CDL.

Odd, AFAIK you shouldn't need to disable VSC to enable the CDL. The CDL splits power front/rear 50/50, but VSC/TC still will cut power if it detects wheel spin. It would be interesting to see if others who have consistent CDL issues have success engaging it after first turning VSC off though

 

[radman]

I showed up to the dealer with videos and a printed list of mornings of CDL flashing. Mine is typically cold/wet mornings, so my money is on moisture as well.
I got the standard "no light, no saved codes from the tech/advisor". My plan is to plug in techstream the next time i see it to see if there are any codes.

Also, I've performed the recommended CDL/4lo excersizing, drive 100 yards in straight line, figure 8, double loopty loop to no avail.

9/11/19 7:30am
10/8/19 9am
10/17/19 8:20am
10/22/19 8:45am
10/25/19 9am
10/31/19 8:35am
11/12/19 8:30am
11/17/19 10am

I came here to say that @oneofew solved my problem!

Check your battery, if it's 4lo/hi , diff lock is showing up on first start more than likely battery is week.

I recently started leaving my front/rear dash cams on to record over night, and the diff light had started coming on more. I did some voltage checks to confirm, and I believe the previous "cold morning" theory can be explained by stress put on the weak battery.

5-10 minutes of driving seemed to put enough charge on the battery to where a restart would keep the light off. Glad to have this sorted out after 2 years!

 

[TeCKis300]

I came here to say that @oneofew solved my problem!



I recently started leaving my front/rear dash cams on to record over night, and the diff light had started coming on more. I did some voltage checks to confirm, and I believe the previous "cold morning" theory can be explained by stress put on the weak battery.

5-10 minutes of driving seemed to put enough charge on the battery to where a restart would keep the light off. Glad to have this sorted out after 2 years!

Great find. I think this also reinforces that the root issue is an electromechanical issue within the diff lock and 4lo solenoids. As the wiper switches and micro switches build corrosion over time, there's more resistance in the contacts. Creating the marginal connection and switching situations that throws the error. To your point, the higher standing voltage from a fresh battery allows the electronics to work across these high resistance points more reliably.

If it degrades enough, may need to do the following fix

Transfer Case Tuneup and Fix

Transfer case actuator issues are not uncommon on the 200-series. Not much documented solutions other than exercising the mechanisms regularly. Here's my attempt to provide more information on where and what the actuator is, how to service the transfer case actuator motor, and potentially...

forum.ih8mud.com

Example of corrosion of my wiper switches. There was significant pitting at the rest points.

 

[vladimir1986ca]

Ok, seems I am on the right thread. Flashing diff light came up today on my 09 LC. When I tried to turn it off it did not work. So, I turned the engine off and on again-no light. Then decided to see if my diff lock engages, pressed the button while driving-solid diff lock light along with vsc off light came on-but when pressed again just flashing diff lock. Other time it just flashing when I press it to engage. It appears I have no issues to turn it on flashing or solid, but it never actually turns off-or goes away when I try to disengage it. Any ideas?

 

[vladimir1986ca]

Weird, so tried to engage and disengage diff lock after engaging and disengaging 4Lo in Neutral —works flawlessly. The instructions say I should be able to engage and disengage diff lock while driving below 60mph.

 

[grinchy]

It’s sticky. Use it weekly for a bit and should ‘heal’

 

[linuxgod]

Ok, seems I am on the right thread. Flashing diff light came up today on my 09 LC. When I tried to turn it off it did not work. So, I turned the engine off and on again-no light. Then decided to see if my diff lock engages, pressed the button while driving-solid diff lock light along with vsc off light came on-but when pressed again just flashing diff lock. Other time it just flashing when I press it to engage. It appears I have no issues to turn it on flashing or solid, but it never actually turns off-or goes away when I try to disengage it. Any ideas?

Fast flash or slow flash? (You may not know if you've never seen both)

Fast flash happens at startup sometimes. It's an indication the ECU is seeing the wrong voltage or thinks the actuator is not in the right position, I think. It can also happen when you press the CDL button. When this happens the light will not stop until you turn the vehicle off. Once the transfer case warms up typically you can turn the vehicle off and then restart it and the light will go off, but if the transfer case hasn't warmed up then the flashing will come back right away. We on the forum believe regularly using the CDL will help prevent this issue but in my experience it doesn't seem to matter (and in fact it seems more likely to happen to me a few days after I've engaged the CDL). YMMV.

Slow flash happens when the actuator tries to engage but can't, typically because the drivetrain is bound up (like if you try to engage the CDL while turning or on dry pavement when parked). If you start driving this typically goes solid and engages right but sometimes folks have issues with it. When this happens you can normally press the button again and the light will go off.

 

[linuxgod]

Weird, so tried to engage and disengage diff lock after engaging and disengaging 4Lo in Neutral —works flawlessly. The instructions say I should be able to engage and disengage diff lock while driving below 60mph.

You can. It's probably a sticky actuator or something

 

[vladimir1986ca]

It’s sticky. Use it weekly for a bit and should ‘heal’

Wow, it healed today. Was able to engage and disengage while driving.

 

[Lester did that]

Fast flash or slow flash? (You may not know if you've never seen both)

Fast flash happens at startup sometimes. It's an indication the ECU is seeing the wrong voltage or thinks the actuator is not in the right position, I think. It can also happen when you press the CDL button. When this happens the light will not stop until you turn the vehicle off. Once the transfer case warms up typically you can turn the vehicle off and then restart it and the light will go off, but if the transfer case hasn't warmed up then the flashing will come back right away. We on the forum believe regularly using the CDL will help prevent this issue but in my experience it doesn't seem to matter (and in fact it seems more likely to happen to me a few days after I've engaged the CDL). YMMV.

Slow flash happens when the actuator tries to engage but can't, typically because the drivetrain is bound up (like if you try to engage the CDL while turning or on dry pavement when parked). If you start driving this typically goes solid and engages right but sometimes folks have issues with it. When this happens you can normally press the button again and the light will go off.

I have a 2009 and every once in a while, doesn't matter the weather, it flashes fast in the morning. Just like you said it happens more after engaging the CDL. Almost like the day after or two. The kicker is even when the light is flashing and it's driven a bit I can still put it in 4L and lock the CDL with no issues? I've serviced it and still have random issues with the fast light on start up. It does not worry me anymore. It still works fine with no issues except it's annoying at 4am. I use the CDL about once a week so it's not like it hasn't been used in years. I chalk it up to a quirk?

 

[linuxgod]

I have a 2009 and every once in a while, doesn't matter the weather, it flashes fast in the morning. Just like you said it happens more after engaging the CDL. Almost like the day after or two. The kicker is even when the light is flashing and it's driven a bit I can still put it in 4L and lock the CDL with no issues? I've serviced it and still have random issues with the fast light on start up. It does not worry me anymore. It still works fine with no issues except it's annoying at 4am. I use the CDL about once a week so it's not like it hasn't been used in years. I chalk it up to a quirk?

Interesting. I cannot use 4Lo or the CDL when this happens to me. I need to warm everything up then restart the truck first before it’ll even try to operate

 

[ElJayBird]

Mine does this if I park at an incline for too long. Letting the truck get up to operating temp, driving a few hundred yards and then rebooting seems to resolve it. Who knew that Microsoft devs worked on the 200 production team.