Builds FJfordy4DR12V (purists turn your eyes away from this one) (1 Viewer)

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“Discovered” some good news…I had never messed with the tuning on the Fox shocks, I just ran them the way Accutune sent them. I have exchanged rear springs, but never needed with the knobs. I watched a vid from Fox and discovered my DSC knobs were all the way open.
Closed them to the recommended starting point of 3 clicks down from wide open and I could tell both the low speed and high speed damping was stronger. Body roll wasn’t eliminated but I have 7 more clicks to go!

Score one for Accutune for recommending the DSC adjusters, plus I don’t have to spend money on Heep parts either!
 
Ditcherman said:
“Discovered” some good news…I had never messed with the tuning on the Fox shocks, I just ran them the way Accutune sent them. I have exchanged rear springs, but never needed with the knobs. I watched a vid from Fox and discovered my DSC knobs were all the way open.
Closed them to the recommended starting point of 3 clicks down from wide open and I could tell both the low speed and high speed damping was stronger. Body roll wasn’t eliminated but I have 7 more clicks to go!

Score one for Accutune for recommending the DSC adjusters, plus I don’t have to spend money on Heep parts either!
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You will still get body roll, just not as quick, if you are leaned over it will just do it slower, kind of like those soft closing toilet lids! I still suggest a rear sway bar.
 
X2 on the antirock setup, and I put one on the front and the back of my Cruiser. I talked to Max Dollinger at 714-367-1580 ext.151 and he told me that the Antirock isn’t exactly intended for antisway, but more to keep the body stable off road. I think that they help with highway sway but I’ve never disconnected mine to test. I can confirm that they flex very well off road and the Cruiser feels very stable.

I have a bit of roll around corners on the road still, but it is way better than it was with a spring over and Alan Springs.

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Ditcherman said:
Great first real drive.
Stuffed all 4 corners, climbs anything without hesitation and then you engage the ORD Magnum box, well it feels unstoppable.

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It has what I consider a crazy amount of body roll when cornering. Need to get some interstate time with it if I’m driving out to SAS, mixing it up with semi’s in the wind could be interesting.

Any suggestions on sway bars vs none, disconnects, etc?

Overall love how it drives, not feeling any under or over steer, seems to go where I’m thinking I want it to go. Got it up to almost 80 for a mile on a state highway and I was worried about doing that but it felt solid.

Apparently gotta do a rear main seal so that’s a bummer.

Roof coming along.
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I saw these pictures. 1st, look at that corn go!

I have a berm close to my house and similar pictures that I will post. The berm may not be as steep but this might help to see the antirock in action. I which that I could drive to Indiana this weekend to compare.

Note that I don’t have the cage on yet. I should drive back over to this spot to see if the cage changes the angle.

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Mike Shull said:
X2 on the antirock setup, and I put one on the front and the back of my Cruiser. I talked to Max Dollinger at 714-367-1580 ext.151 and he told me that the Antirock isn’t exactly intended for antisway, but more to keep the body stable off road. I think that they help with highway sway but I’ve never disconnected mine to test. I can confirm that they flex very well off road and the Cruiser feels very stable.

I have a bit of roll around corners on the road still, but it is way better than it was with a spring over and Alan Springs.

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Those are awesome pictures, beautiful flex.
There must be some hi-falutin science type stuff behind that sway bar steel.
 
matzell said:
You will still get body roll, just not as quick, if you are leaned over it will just do it slower, kind of like those soft closing toilet lids! I still suggest a rear sway bar.
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That makes sense, I should have thought about that, from loading air ride grain trailers in the side ditch. It might ride smooth but it still rolls over.
 
Why be normal?
NP 205, ORD Magnum, cast iron transmission adapter, NV4500 and bell housing all slid back as one, to replace the rear main seal.
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Engine didn’t leak last time it ran, 5 years ago so didn’t think of it. Duh.

Doing it this way to avoid dropping the crossmember that the front links are tied too, somewhere between lots of hassle and impossible, plus we’d be working under the whole front end on jackstands.
 
Full sway bars, no disconnects. I run mine 100% of the time. It's a world of difference. Check out the TK1 Racing bars. I would highly recommend those over an anti rock. I've ran both, and I have one of each on my cruiser. I know which one I like more lol.
 
Blackknight1 said:
How many inches did you cut out of the rear doors ? Looks awesome by the way !
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I think about 5 3/4 inches, if memory serves. That was about 3 years ago.
Don’t tell my wife I even remotely remember that number.
I can measure them if you need an exact number.
 
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