Build FJfordy4DR12V (purists turn your eyes away from this one)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Tank5 said:
It was rusty and beat. Not worth the shipping.🤣

I would tell him to look into getting one of the Chinese reproductions.
Click to expand...
He’s sketched out about some of the deals he’s seeing, eBay, and otherwise, and the wait times are bad. He has to ship to Miami and then pick up from there.
Just thought I’d try.
I know it’s gotta be a rare part.
 
Ditcherman said:
He’s sketched out about some of the deals he’s seeing, eBay, and otherwise, and the wait times are bad. He has to ship to Miami and then pick up from there.
Just thought I’d try.
I know it’s gotta be a rare part.
Click to expand...
Thanks for trying to help. I' m about to try that guy from Colombia. I'll let you know how that goes.
 
The chinese ones are really rough from the few I've had to molest. They take a lot of work.
 
clrussell said:
Two weeks and no update.

Must be out driving it
Click to expand...
Well I wish. Got back from SAS, developed a terrible oil leak on the way home and I came to the conclusion that it was the tappet cover gasket. Not unheard of on a 12 valve. Stopped at a Carquest somewhere in Kansas to get oil, as none of the Love’s had truck oil even though they had truck fueling lanes, same with every station. Well this Carquest had the coolest guys there, it was a great stroke of fate that we ended up there, a customer rolled up and was crawling under the truck when I came out. He was interested in the 40, but saw all the oil under it and wondered if it was a Cummins which he was really interested in! Anyway, he found the leak on top of the fuel pump (certain years p pumps are oil lubed not fuel lubed) and tightened a couple bolts he could get to. It continued to leak but not as bad. This was on a cover that rusty nail racing (see previous page) had taken off, and the funny thing was we had joked about “farmer tight” because the oil filter was so hard to get off. Well they made up for my farmer tight bolts. I’ll probably continue to go farmer tight.
Brings us to now, got it home immediately started fixing the mess I made in the engine compartment when I put the air to water aftercooler radiator and fan in the engine bay. That was a stupid shortcut. There’s plenty of room under the rear floor and that’s where it got moved to. I could finish fixing the leak when I got that out of the way.
Also on the way home it started smoking again, and it seems there is an injector missing. Again. So I’m actually not driving it at all, it has an appointment at Scheid diesel in a week to get checked out and tuned up and I want it to be broken when I get it there. They are really good at what they do, they tell me they make an adjustable fuel delivery something-or-other that will allow me to tune it for here (900’) and high elevations. So hopeful that they work some magic on it.
 
Ditcherman said:
Well I wish. Got back from SAS, developed a terrible oil leak on the way home and I came to the conclusion that it was the tappet cover gasket. Not unheard of on a 12 valve. Stopped at a Carquest somewhere in Kansas to get oil, as none of the Love’s had truck oil even though they had truck fueling lanes, same with every station. Well this Carquest had the coolest guys there, it was a great stroke of fate that we ended up there, a customer rolled up and was crawling under the truck when I came out. He was interested in the 40, but saw all the oil under it and wondered if it was a Cummins which he was really interested in! Anyway, he found the leak on top of the fuel pump (certain years p pumps are oil lubed not fuel lubed) and tightened a couple bolts he could get to. It continued to leak but not as bad. This was on a cover that rusty nail racing (see previous page) had taken off, and the funny thing was we had joked about “farmer tight” because the oil filter was so hard to get off. Well they made up for my farmer tight bolts. I’ll probably continue to go farmer tight.
Brings us to now, got it home immediately started fixing the mess I made in the engine compartment when I put the air to water aftercooler radiator and fan in the engine bay. That was a stupid shortcut. There’s plenty of room under the rear floor and that’s where it got moved to. I could finish fixing the leak when I got that out of the way.
Also on the way home it started smoking again, and it seems there is an injector missing. Again. So I’m actually not driving it at all, it has an appointment at Scheid diesel in a week to get checked out and tuned up and I want it to be broken when I get it there. They are really good at what they do, they tell me they make an adjustable fuel delivery something-or-other that will allow me to tune it for here (900’) and high elevations. So hopeful that they work some magic on it.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you are on the right path!

Shied does good work (at least they did 10-15 years ago when I was “in the game”)
 
Been remiss in updating much after SAS and then SMORR with the Tornado Alley Gang, which was great, will try to remedy that soon.

Meanwhile, northern lights pictures from central Indiana…
IMG_1415.webp

IMG_0892.webp

IMG_0885.webp
 
Mike Shull said:
How are those away bars coming along?
Click to expand...
It’s (singular) laying here on the floor, just need to fab up a mount, but realized I needed to get the second radiator in before I should mount the swaybar. So that went in last night finally, but to make room to plumb it took a bunch of stuff out and needed to get a layer of dynamat on the firewall, so that was somewhere in the order of things, and am plumbing/wiring in temp gauges on both sides of the intercooler along with a boost gauge and a pyrometer in the manifold instead of so far downstream.
About to put the puzzle back together, then I’ll get to your sway bar!!

I’d really like to take it out in some of this snow we’ve had, it’s been exceptional for Indiana. We kept a couple of inches in the ground for almost two weeks! But now it’s all salty and that’s not gonna happen!
 
Some of the dynamat going in.
Should have done it originally, thought multiple coats of lizard skin heat and sound was good enough, it’s probably never enough.
What a pain to do now.
IMG_0926.webp

We did a hurried job of door seals to get it to SAS in the summer, so cut all those off and took the time to get new ones right. Hoping that quiets it down too.
 
Mike Shull said:
Wow, you are doing a ton of work. I also thought that multiple layers of lizard skin and raptor liner would be plenty to keep mine cool and quiet but I was wrong. I will be putting dynamat extreme and dynaliner in mine in a few months. Which persuasion did you use?
Click to expand...
I had used two coats of each in the outside of the firewall and the bottom of the tub, nothing but raptor liner on the inside.
Now using dynamat extreme on the firewall, outside. Intend to do the transmission cover as well but dreading taking that off, so saving that.
 
Ditcherman said:
I had used two coats of each in the outside of the firewall and the bottom of the tub, nothing but raptor liner on the inside.
Now using dynamat extreme on the firewall, outside. Intend to do the transmission cover as well but dreading taking that off, so saving that.
Click to expand...
I did 4 coats of each on both sides and it is definitely better than stock, but I don’t think that it is any different than yours. I’m excited to go for a ride again next year if we meet up again. After riding in your Cruiser I stopped in Montrose to pick up a cheap set of floor mats on my way out of town and it made a huge difference. My transmission cover was getting up to 160 degrees F and the carpet was only 100. Almost livable. Ha.

I know what you mean about taking that transmission cover off. I’ve had mine off 3 times and I plan to do it again for the exact same reason. I was thinking about using DEI heat shield on the exterior. I’m not sure why I made that decision over Dynamat as I am going to use that on the inside. Any reason why you went with Dynamat over DEI for the exterior? I am also going to put some material on the underside of my hood and DEI has a product that looks pretty slick, at least the pictures online look good.
 
Here is the hood liner that I was looking at. I like it because it doesn’t look like shiny tin foil.

www.designengineering.com

Black Under Hood™ Thermal Acoustic Liner - 32" x 59"

DEI Under Hood was designed primarily for the engine compartment as a way to greatly reduce heat and noise with an easy peel and stick product anyone can install.
www.designengineering.com www.designengineering.com
 
Mike Shull said:
I did 4 coats of each on both sides and it is definitely better than stock, but I don’t think that it is any different than yours. I’m excited to go for a ride again next year if we meet up again. After riding in your Cruiser I stopped in Montrose to pick up a cheap set of floor mats on my way out of town and it made a huge difference. My transmission cover was getting up to 160 degrees F and the carpet was only 100. Almost livable. Ha.

I know what you mean about taking that transmission cover off. I’ve had mine off 3 times and I plan to do it again for the exact same reason. I was thinking about using DEI heat shield on the exterior. I’m not sure why I made that decision over Dynamat as I am going to use that on the inside. Any reason why you went with Dynamat over DEI for the exterior? I am also going to put some material on the underside of my hood and DEI has a product that looks pretty slick, at least the pictures online look good.
Click to expand...
I was not familiar with DEI.
Do you think we get a lot of noise in the cab through the hood?
Do you think the engine/engine bay would be significantly hotter with the hood insulated?

Also good questions for @fjdiesel . I’m sure others can chime in too!

It was wild to me to learn that the vents near the windshield are engine bay intakes. I’ve wanted to do some kind of smoke test at different speeds since I learned this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom