Builds FJfordy4DR12V (purists turn your eyes away from this one) (5 Viewers)

[Ditcherman]

Full sway bars, no disconnects. I run mine 100% of the time. It's a world of difference. Check out the TK1 Racing bars. I would highly recommend those over an anti rock. I've ran both, and I have one of each on my cruiser. I know which one I like more lol.

Thanks for the brand recommendation, checked them out, they seem to have more specifics on their kits.
Trying to understand the need, and what they actually do - I am assuming they help with on road manners? And if you get just the right bar you don't have to disconnect it to wheel? Otherwise it's too stiff to wheel with and actually makes the body lean more, or limits frame flex?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Thanks for the brand recommendation, checked them out, they seem to have more specifics on their kits.
Trying to understand the need, and what they actually do - I am assuming they help with on road manners? And if you get just the right bar you don't have to disconnect it to wheel? Otherwise it's too stiff to wheel with and actually makes the body lean more, or limits frame flex?

You want a bar that is compliant enough at low speeds to flex well, but holds the suspension enough at speed to limit body roll. I am running a soft TK1 Ultra4 bar in my rear, and a 1" rockjock up front. I much prefer the TK1 for the adjustability with heat treats, along with different lengths, and it's a much nicer arm as well for the same cost. I wish I had a bit more space to play with up front as I would be running a TK1 bar, but I don't have the space.

Sway bars are a relatively simple concept; they resist torsional motion. Body roll essentially is a somewhat torsional movement around the roll axis (as far as I remember) of your suspension. By adding a sway bar, you limit the rotation of the body and suspension by adding a known limiter, IE., the sway bar. How much it limits or resists the torsional motion depends on the material, diameter, and heat treat, along with the amount of torque applied to the bar. You can adjust the amount of torque applied to the bay by adjusting the length of the arm of the bar. The longer the bar, the more torque can be applied by the axle. Based on weight, you need to find the correct diameter and length of arm. For me, it was the 1 1/8 TK1 bar and (I believe) a 14" arm with a soft heat treat to allow for the amount of travel I have. Too much bar and it won't flex enough, and too little will not help, but both can be supplemented by changing the length of the arm to make it more or less compliant.

If you were closer, I'd be happy to let you drive the cruiser to see how it behaves with and without bars, and you are more than welcome to do it at SAS.

 

[DangerNoodle]

If you go with a TK1 bar, I would also do aluminum end links. Usually, you want to have the arms sitting somewhat parallel. I don't remember what your travel is, but you don't want to angle down too much with doop, or it binds.

Here is how my rear is sitting with 12" of travel, about 4 up and 8 down.

 

[Blackknight1]

I think about 5 3/4 inches, if memory serves. That was about 3 years ago.
Don’t tell my wife I even remotely remember that number.
I can measure them if you need an exact number.

I went -4 " . Yours do seem a bit smaller. Amazing work !

 

[Ditcherman]

I went -4 " . Yours do seem a bit smaller. Amazing work !

You know the saying I'd rather be lucky than good?
Definitely applies here. I cut the doors down while I was still thinking I’d use multiple tubs to make the 4 door body. The rust and rot was overwhelming and I bought an Aqualu tub, and I had happened cut the doors to fit it. I had to work on the bottom rear radius but that was it.

So I’d rather be lucky than good, I guess.

 

[Ditcherman]

If you go with a TK1 bar, I would also do aluminum end links. Usually, you want to have the arms sitting somewhat parallel. I don't remember what your travel is, but you don't want to angle down too much with doop, or it binds.

Here is how my rear is sitting with 12" of travel, about 4 up and 8 down.

View attachment 3938828

Thanks for the offer! Definitely looking forward to seeing how other rigs perform.

 

[Ditcherman]

Making some good progress on some little things, and I'm just thankful that I am at a point where I can devote bandwidth to the little things, that the little things are what's next. I am struggling to get started on the tire carrier, would like to get that on because I suspect I'm going to have to swap springs with Accutune again. It keeps getting lower and lower.

I took my oldest, a cinematographer who has a great eye for light, for a ride yesterday and he jumped out and took some pictures...

Trust me, it's not the paint, it's the eye behind the camera.

I do have a question for those who might be interested in giving their input; I've had a lot of ah-ha moments when something comes together and looks great, but two disappointments were the bezel in white, and the stupid big intake in stainless steel just stands out.
Should I paint those black?
The only stainless/chrome right now are the latches on the hood, the mirrors will get added and the pre '74 door handles but I'm not sure that will be enough? I was really looking forward to that Cygnus White bezel to match the roof but it's just not doing it for me.

Had this rock next to my barn, wasn't sure if it would go up it but it didn't even notice it.

 

[Mike Shull]

This thing is looking good! I have two bezels and I have been tossing around the idea of clearing over the surface rust of my factory bezel and seeing how that looks. The other bezel is chrome and I picked it up 25 years ago from a salvaged Cruiser and I was thinking of sending it out to have a matte black chrome applied.

Bezel colors are hard to get right. I have seen these painted in a variety of colors and I haven’t found a color that I like, including the factory white. The best that I have seen are dark matte colors, like a steel blue or gray.

Experiment with it and post pictures. With your attention to detail you just might solve the color dilemma for both of us.

 

[Ditcherman]

This thing is looking good! I have two bezels and I have been tossing around the idea of clearing over the surface rust of my factory bezel and seeing how that looks. The other bezel is chrome and I picked it up 25 years ago from a salvaged Cruiser and I was thinking of sending it out to have a matte black chrome applied.

Bezel colors are hard to get right. I have seen these painted in a variety of colors and I haven’t found a color that I like, including the factory white. The best that I have seen are dark matte colors, like a steel blue or gray.

Experiment with it and post pictures. With your attention to detail you just might solve the color dilemma for both of us.

Oooh matte black chrome would be nice.
This one started out chrome, I hated painting it but the chrome was bad and I didn’t want to send it off, or really want chrome. Maybe it’d go with the intake….
My 74 also has a chrome bezel. Not sure what the odds are of me acquiring 2 40’s with chrome bezels. Have some rusted out steel ones but they’re wall art.

Maybe the chorme on the 74 goes on this one for a look….

I really have to give credit to my daughter in law and son for any colors that are good.

 

[Mike Shull]

With all of this talk about colors other than white, I am over here painting my license plate light covers Rustoleum French Beige. Ha!

Put that chrome bezel on and let’s see how it looks.

 

[archie73]

looking good. Keep the bezel white.

 

[Ditcherman]

Didn’t get to switching out the bezels today for a look, but did a lot of little things; got the tach set using - I think it was called a stroboscope - like a timing light, when the mark holds steady at the number on the screen that’s your rpm. Once the idle was programmed right on the gauge cluster the top end was right too, then could set the engine idle properly.
Vacuumed the AC and charged, checked out nicely.
Lifted the rear, checked preload and found out somehow I had left negative preload. Reached ride height with only 1 1/4” of preload. 5 1/4 chrome showing on a 14” coilover with me on the back, which is way more than the spare tire carrier which took forever to tig but it turned out.

Once again, gotta plug Accutune, as they have been very helpful getting this set up.

Went for a drive, trying to run as much fuel as possible through it and generally see what I can break.

 

[Mike Shull]

Didn’t get to switching out the bezels today for a look, but did a lot of little things; got the tach set using - I think it was called a stroboscope - like a timing light, when the mark holds steady at the number on the screen that’s your rpm. Once the idle was programmed right on the gauge cluster the top end was right too, then could set the engine idle properly.
Vacuumed the AC and charged, checked out nicely.
Lifted the rear, checked preload and found out somehow I had left negative preload. Reached ride height with only 1 1/4” of preload. 5 1/4 chrome showing on a 14” coilover with me on the back, which is way more than the spare tire carrier which took forever to tig but it turned out.
View attachment 3944756

Once again, gotta plug Accutune, as they have been very helpful getting this set up.

Went for a drive, trying to run as much fuel as possible through it and generally see what I can break.

It’s looking great! The folks at Accutune are amazing. They have taken a lot of the guesswork out of my suspension. Given this, mine is still setting and I might be on my way towards a third set of rear springs.

I just realized that you put your fuel filler on the left side like me. You don’t see that very often and I was trying to be unique. Ha. Looking good. So close! Have you had it on the highway yet?

 

[Ditcherman]

It’s looking great! The folks at Accutune are amazing. They have taken a lot of the guesswork out of my suspension. Given this, mine is still setting and I might be on my way towards a third set of rear springs.

I just realized that you put your fuel filler on the left side like me. You don’t see that very often and I was trying to be unique. Ha. Looking good. So close! Have you had it on the highway yet?

Oh yea, had it up to almost 80 for about a mile. Driving it every chance I get. Cruises 60mph at about 1650 rpm. No interstate but a lot of 60-65 mph highway, will try interstate soon hopefully.

This morning I tightened the rear coil adjusters all the way in to see if it helped with sway more; it didn’t and I didn’t like the ride.
Out at 6 this morning to gym, froze on the way there and then remembered the heated seats on the way home, duh. My wife wants a BMW next, she just doesn’t know it yet.

I asked Accutune about these adjusters relative to sway bars, and they told me the exact same thing you guys did, AntiRock or TK1.
The adjusters definitely made it drivable but they’re not a sway bar.

Hope to get doors on today, and go weigh it.

Thought I might start a contest to see who wanted to guess the weight of the rig and I’d buy whoever’s closest a cheeseburger at SAS.

 

[Mike Shull]

Remind me again what axles you are running?

 

[Mike Shull]

I found the axles on page 1. My guess is 5,500+.

 

[Ditcherman]

I found the axles on page 1. My guess is 5,500+.

Phhhffffttt, hey buddy, the plus doesn’t count for contest purposes.
I’m calling 6340 lbs.
Over 6500 will surprise me. Maybe.

 

[Mike Shull]

Phhhffffttt, hey buddy, the plus doesn’t count for contest purposes.
I’m calling 6340 lbs.
Over 6500 will surprise me. Maybe.

Is this like the Price is Right? I’m thinking that you will be below 6340 and above 5500. I still might have a chance at this free hamburger.

What happens if you win? Do you buy yourself a hamburger?

 

[Ditcherman]

Is this like the Price is Right? I’m thinking that you will be below 6340 and above 5500. I still might have a chance at this free hamburger.

What happens if you win? Do you buy yourself a hamburger?

FJ parts.

Nothing in her budget for me to eat on.

 

[matzell]

Cygnus white for bezel
Matte black for intake