Builds FJfordy4DR12V (purists turn your eyes away from this one) (5 Viewers)

[Ditcherman]

Go to Big Sky for a week and all the fun stuff shows up!
It’s about to get real, I hope.
Got a bunch of cool stickers. Maybe some parts to go along.

 

[Rock40]

Nice. Those ORD Magnum’s are a really nice piece of work

 

[Mike Shull]

Looks like good fun. Did you end up ordering your intermediate shaft from Tom Woods? I’m curious to see how that turns out.

 

[Ditcherman]

Looks like good fun. Did you end up ordering your intermediate shaft from Tom Woods? I’m curious to see how that turns out.

Here’s the Tom Woods back half of their two piece shaft, just sitting sorta kinda in place.
Might re-clock the t case up some, mainly for tub floor clearance due to the Magnum box shifter being right on top.

 

[Mike Shull]

Sweet! It looks good to me but I’m no expert. Are the splines fixed or do those slip inside of the shaft?

 

[Ditcherman]

View attachment 3836225
Here’s the Tom Woods back half of their two piece shaft, just sitting sorta kinda in place.
Might re-clock the t case up some, mainly for tub floor clearance due to the Magnum box shifter being right on top.

They slipped I was playing with it and accidentally pulled it out all the way, and it goes full compression to the bearing stops it

 

[Ditcherman]

Some things getting done;
Bumper came together, along with the exhaust mounts, and some air intake and air filter supports.

Next up, intercooler radiator mount, transmission/magnum crossmember build, front driveshaft carrier bearing mount, and cable shifters got ordered.

 

[clrussell]

Wild.

Awesome.

 

[Ditcherman]

Crossmember built. Hope it’s strong enough. I know it’s as strong as the factory crossmember I was assuming I’d use, but I’ll worry about it for a while.

Close only counts in horseshoes and driveshaft grenades.

 

[Rock40]

Your cross bar is super stout. I’m not sure if that’s the only mount holding up the rear of the drivetrain but I’d be a bit concerned about the leverage on the ORD Magnum plate. It’d be better to get the weight centered over your square tubing.

When I did the Magnum mount on the M715, I sliced the square tube open, cleaned it up with a die grinder and then burned it in like this. It’s all still removable from the truck tho

 

[Ditcherman]

Your cross bar is super stout. I’m not sure if that’s the only mount holding up the rear of the drivetrain but I’d be a bit concerned about the leverage on the ORD Magnum plate. It’d be better to get the weight centered over your square tubing.

When I did the Magnum mount on the M715, I sliced the square tube open, cleaned it up with a die grinder and then burned it in like this. It’s all still removable from the truck tho


View attachment 3842269

Thanks.
It is the only support for the rear.
Not sure if the picture shows it, there shouldn’t be any torque on the ORD plate, as the load is shared equally between the tail housing and the ORD, which are also bolted together (obviously ) .
I tried to fit two bars in or even some flat but decided one bar centered would be worth a try.

 

[Rock40]

Thanks.
It is the only support for the rear.
Not sure if the picture shows it, there shouldn’t be any torque on the ORD plate, as the load is shared equally between the tail housing and the ORD, which are also bolted together (obviously ) .
I tried to fit two bars in or even some flat but decided one bar centered would be worth a try.

Yeah, I was finally able to see that it was tied into the trans also, hard to tell in the pic. It should be plenty stout. The plate that ORD provides is a nice piece

 

[Ditcherman]

Progress.

Fitting things in, seeing if there might be room for batteries. Compressor and fuse box has a space, trying to get the intercooler radiator with its fan on the cool side of the engine, along with all the misc.

Clutch pedal is in, seems like it might work…

 

[clrussell]

12lbs of in a 5lb bag.

 

[Ditcherman]

NV4500 master and slave in an FJ40:

I thought I’d make a reference post for anyone who is using an NV4500 with an external slave, and wants to use the master that goes with it as opposed to FJ40 parts.
I had a hard time finding any info on this, so hence the post.

My desire was 1. To avoid the maths involved in checking what master and slave combination might work to achieve whatever throw I needed, which was also just internet lore.
2. To have readily accessible parts (plenty of dodge 2500 pre bled options)
3. If I needed to make an adapter, it made more sense to me to make it from the firewall to the dodge master than from the bell housing to the FJ40 slave.

So, pretty simple, in the end you need a hole large enough for the base of the master to fit in, and then be reduced so the triangular OEM shape will allow you to maneuver the mounting bolts. Hence the shape and ‘bushing down’ look of mine.

My overall length was trial and error, but when it’s right it allows the OEM pedal and pin to fit right up to the NV4500 slave. The plastic bushing still existing on my pin required the drilling out of the NV4500 thread on eyelet by just a little bit, one drill size basically.

Clutch pedal travel seems right, and adjustable enough at this point.

 

[Ditcherman]

Got another sticker in the mail.

Looking forward to seeing how these JB Custom Fab cables fit in here.

 

[Ditcherman]

Welp, I can’t believe how hard that transmission tunnel was to get on, with the JB Fab cable shifter involved. It’s a great piece, it’s just the stiff cables make things a whole bunch of no fun. We were trying to seal and gasket the tunnel to the cowl and body at the same time and it’s not pristine but it’s good, imo. It was just really a matter of getting both the chicken and the egg first.

Painting the small stuff, trying to be patient enough to finish things correctly, wiring going in taking some serious effort but it’s going to be nice when it’s done.

 

[Ditcherman]

I had a window installer come out, thinking a few hundred bucks spent might be a good investment.
I was sure the windshield I took to a local shop was out of the frame I was using, but apparently not. There are three window sizes, lower vent, upper wipers with no vent (68? to 74), and upper wiper 75 and up. Who knew? (Everyone but me?)
Template from SOR incoming.

So that was a bust, the rear hatch window has a scratch that I hadn’t seen, and they didn’t want anything to do with my experimental slider setup as they were short on time that day.

Anyway, the crew at American Auto Glass was awesome, if you need glass work in central Indiana I would highly recommend them. Very helpful and kind in light of all my problems.

I decided to pursue the sliders myself and am so stoked to see that they work, even though I cracked one going in.
Learning.
But I think it’s gonna work!

 

[Mike Shull]

Motivation! It looks like you are gaining excellent progress and I can’t wait to see you driving this in August!!!

 

[Ditcherman]

Front bumper and winch mount coming together.

More windshield drama;

The glass installers said my windshield was too small, tried with both original gasket and new one from City Racer, a little loose all around and corners gapping.
I ordered what has to be the correct year template from SOR, only to find it’s the exact same size as my new and old glass.

This should be the 69-74 windshield frame, no lower vent high mount wipers.

Does anyone have any advice or a clue to what is going on here?