Builds FJfordy4DR12V (purists turn your eyes away from this one)

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Funny to find this thread, I am currently doing the same thing to client's vehicle at work.

I took a slightly different B pillar approach. Yours looks good!

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Did you trim your hinge so it only mounts with two bolts? I don’t see it sticking through the original Aqualu tub.

I made the decision, out of pure ignorance of what may be right really, to maintain the hinge depth and add metal to keep 4 mount bolts. That took a lot of time to make, and then to try to cover half way gracefully.

After all, the farmer motto is “if a little’s good, more is better, and too much is almost just enough”.
Applies to bolting things up but also especially to welding amps.
 
Mine looks……complicated. At best. I went for keeping the vertical rain gutter look, but your smooth look really looks nice, especially with the newer doors.
For some reason that door looks shorter? I took 5 3/4 out of mine.
Shortening the first door was the first sheetmetal cutting and welding I had ever done in my life. So I’m learning bondo too…

It sure makes sense to finish that pillar in aluminum up to the hinge!
We’ll see how mine do.
I scored some convertible seats so I’m not worried about seat belt points off the pillar.

Good looking build!

I'm not sure, this aqualu was a bit weird on door openings. I probably had to take 12" out of the rear doors. I did a three bolt mounting plate for the hinge.
 
Finally able to report on some progress, and it seems like a lot has come together all at once after a lot of preparation…not that there’s not a looong way to go.
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Just absolutely immersed myself in how to build a link suspension. Really thankful for the calculator over on irate, and a certain very helpful generous person. Seems like the front took weeks and the rear literally took 6 hours.
The goal was to lower the frame because the FJ40 body sits high, I think we got a few inches out of it.
Coilovers are on the way and I’ll get hoops built, we’ll start putting mechanical back together and figure out intake, intercooler, and cooling mounting.
 
Making some progress, and thinking about coilover hoops and the brace that connects them over the engine.
Is it better to float that brace through the fenders and keep everything independent, or is it ok to mount the fenders to the actual shock hoop and the fenders are sandwiched between the hoop and cross brace? I have the extra wide Aqualu fenders.
Just trying to visualize what moves and what shouldn't move.
TIA.

PFA.
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Finally seems like more progress after lots of hiccups. Spent 2 days trying to fit the power steering pump in, lots of trial and error. I’m making everything revolve around the suspension calculator, so if it doesn’t package it gets cut out and redone. Sure hope that pays.

The bend above is the first real bend I’ve done apart from the cheaters that TFS on YouTube suggests making. 1.5 x .25 was really tough stuff and took everything I had.

Panhard is fitting and steering looks like it will work all the way from stuff to all the way up.

Beautiful coilivers from Accutune arrived, looking forward to making shock hoops. Have no idea what I’m doing but having a good time doing it! Accutune was very helpful, great people over there.
 
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Finally seems like more progress after lots of hiccups. Spent 2 days trying to fit the power steering pump in, lots of trial and error. I’m making everything revolve around the suspension calculator, so if it doesn’t package it gets cut out and redone. Sure hope that pays.

The bend above is the first real bend I’ve done apart from the cheaters that TFS on YouTube suggests making. 1.5 x .25 was really tough stuff and took everything I had.

Panhard is fitting and steering looks like it will work all the way from stuff to all the way up.

Beautiful coilivers from Accutune arrived, looking forward to making shock hoops. Have no idea what I’m doing but having a good time doing it! Accutune was very helpful, great people over there.
Awesome! What brand coilovers did you go with? The folks at Accutune are amazing.
 
Awesome! What brand coilovers did you go with? The folks at Accutune are amazing.
They steered me toward Fox so I went that way. 2.5’s, remote reservoir, adjustable…”it doesn’t cost that much more to go first class” but I’ve also watched people go broke.

For a newb with a one off build their spring exchange program seems great.

I actually tried to do business with a local shop and they said they had to order custom made shocks and it’d be 2 months minimum, and Accutune had them on the shelf.
 
They steered me toward Fox so I went that way. 2.5’s, remote reservoir, adjustable…”it doesn’t cost that much more to go first class” but I’ve also watched people go broke.

For a newb with a one off build their spring exchange program seems great.

I actually tried to do business with a local shop and they said they had to order custom made shocks and it’d be 2 months minimum, and Accutune had them on the shelf.
I think that you made a good choice. Fox seems to have some excellent options. I have Fox shocks on my mountain bike, but I decided to go with King shocks on the Cruiser because of a conversation I had with one of the King family members back in the late 90s at an event in Moab. They were very helpful and they were so passionate about the work that they do. They steered me away from quarter elliptical springs and back to spring over axle until I had the funds for coil covers. When I was ready, I decided to purchase a set from them 27 years later. I just cannot believe where time goes because that seems like it was just yesterday and that is so cliché to say but also so true.
 
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Couple of coilover hoops tacked on. A few tabs to make to go on axle and we’ll see if it will flex out as planned.
 
Really enjoying bending tube and flexing this out.
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Seems to be going according to the plan. Well, I mean, for having no plan.

Fronts are fully welded after testing it out.
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Fully welded, at least for now.
I even bought a tire and wheel the right size and it actually cleared better than the junk build tires. Offset is all wrong on them even though this tire’s way more huger, to put it in technical terms.

Rear is tacked as of tonight, will move the axle end of the coilover lower as much as possible before welding, it looks like springs will just clear on full stuff/droop.
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Those are some tight bends! Looks great!

I bought a tire and wheel a year ago to size everything, planning to use it as my spare. I put it in my backyard and forgot about it. Recently, I ordered wheels from Sidetracked, but they only had three in stock. The fourth one won't arrive until October. I was disappointed, thinking I couldn't install just three wheels—until I remembered my spare. Ha!

Keep it up. This is looking great!
 
I’d be pretty content with this cheap steelie, it’s a Black Rock 17x9, but it almost looked like the center flexed when I put it on to check the flex.
I’ve looked for negative reviews on the wheel, and it does seem thin to me…
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Is there any reason to shy away from a less expensive wheel or from steel in general?
 
I’d be pretty content with this cheap steelie, it’s a Black Rock 17x9, but it almost looked like the center flexed when I put it on to check the flex.
I’ve looked for negative reviews on the wheel, and it does seem thin to me…
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Is there any reason to shy away from a less expensive wheel or from steel in general?
Others may have a different opinion. I used a very similar wheel for 25 years and 50k miles without any issue, and that’s including over 100 trips to Moab. Given this, I finally gave those up and went with forged aluminum beadlocks.

By chance do you think your flex is from only having two lug nuts tightened? I did the same thing for the past 3 years and never thought to look at the wheel when I flexed the suspension.

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Others may have a different opinion. I used a very similar wheel for 25 years and 50k miles without any issue, and that’s including over 100 trips to Moab. Given this, I finally gave those up and went with forged aluminum beadlocks.

By chance do you think your flex is from only having two lug nuts tightened? I did the same thing for the past 3 years and never thought to look at the wheel when I flexed the suspension.

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Thanks.
The flex could be from just tightening two, I wondered about that. It could also be an illusion on my part, being paranoid of a ~$100 wheel of Amazon in these days of cheap stuff.

It was just a very slight movement as I tightened the nuts. I’ll look at it using all 8.
 
Well it sure has been slow going, and very little seems like it gets done, but every day I think maybe this is the day I really make progress. Not yet, at least that’s how it feels.

After fully welding the front shock hoops on I realized I had measured wrong in relation to full stuff and how the fenders fit. So those hoops got ground off and redone, along with the upper coilover mounts.
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In the meantime I had come to the conclusion that my lower links were a weak spot if this thing got any heavier than my wild guess, so upsizing was on the menu, along with a bit of a front frame mount redo, I had not allowed for near enough front driveshaft clearance at the link frame mount.
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So those links got longer, a short shaft is on order from Jesse at High Angle Driveline for the front t case output.
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I was pretty confident that the 243 case and all the driveshafts were gonna come together, but it turns out I have a DHD (pto cover) and there is no slip eliminator kit for it.
Now in doing this, I did have a great experience of talking with many friendly people in the business, trying to find a solution. Tom Wood’s and Torque king have been very helpful and friendly. Pretty cool to talk to so many people who obviously enjoy what they are doing. As short as my rear driveshaft was I really needed a slip shaft, and a slip yoke eliminator.

It turns out I didn’t know I had a gem laying around the farm for years in the form of a NP205. Rusty and crusty on the outside, nearly perfect on the inside, it “looked” like it would bolt right up with just a shaft change, which needed to be done anyway as part of the crusty on the outside. This was from the same ‘78 Ford that the axles are from.

The 205 was checked out, and while I was at it I made the controls come out the back of the 205 instead of the front, where they would interfere with the mounting. Some people carve away at the mount but I really didn’t want to do that and with a lathe and mill sitting right here that I need to get experience on, this was pretty fun to do.
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After ordering supposedly the right parts and a cast iron tailpiece for the rear of the nv4500, I’ve figured out that it needs an adapter plate, with maybe a bearing retainer mod on the lathe…

Or…
a black box or ORD magnum underdrive….
That will mount right up!

My wife is gonna kill me.

Anyway that’s where I’m at.

A bit of body work awaits, and the sound and heat spray insulation is here, waiting.
I was hoping to have it done this fall but have not been efficient at all. Lots of hours, lots of mistakes…

Thanks for reading my excessively long post.
 
I feel your pain. I had to rework my suspension a few times to make it fit. It will pay off in the end.

I used a carrier bearing drive shaft from Wide Open Design to get around my oil pan while keeping my front shaft high. Link below. You might also be interested in this to get over your transmission mount if you are still having mount clearance issues. If I remember correctly, you aren’t as concerned about high ground clearance for rock crawling so it might not be worth the extra cash if it’s not needed.

Keep going! It will all start going back together once you find the right configuration.

Post in thread 'Stretched 1-Ton FJ40'
Builds - Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stretched-1-ton-fj40.1253008/post-14480795
 
I feel your pain. I had to rework my suspension a few times to make it fit. It will pay off in the end.

I used a carrier bearing drive shaft from Wide Open Design to get around my oil pan while keeping my front shaft high. Link below. You might also be interested in this to get over your transmission mount if you are still having mount clearance issues. If I remember correctly, you aren’t as concerned about high ground clearance for rock crawling so it might not be worth the extra cash if it’s not needed.

Keep going! It will all start going back together once you find the right configuration.

Post in thread 'Stretched 1-Ton FJ40'
Builds - Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stretched-1-ton-fj40.1253008/post-14480795
The farther I get into this the more I am building it as capable as possible - for a 132” wheelbase truck. I have no idea what it will handle, what can be done with it.
Lower just for entry/exit for the fam, higher for me. Might do something air down the line.

ETA thanks for the link
 
Is it the pics or is your front shock angle inverted?
 

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