fj80 rear heater necessity or does removing make big difference (1 Viewer)

[b16]

Interesting, it seems that a lot of owners have a hate on for the rear heater because of corrosion and eventually coolant leaks. To solve this problem they bypass the entire system of hard lines and delete the heater. Has anyone ever bypassed the corroded hardlines with new hose to keep the heater functioning? I have yet to come across this on mud. As a subarctic dweller I feel the rear heat is a option I want to keep, despite my battle against rust.

Did you not see my post directly above yours? lol

 

[Douglas S]

Interesting, it seems that a lot of owners have a hate on for the rear heater because of corrosion and eventually coolant leaks. To solve this problem they bypass the entire system of hard lines and delete the heater. Has anyone ever bypassed the corroded hardlines with new hose to keep the heater functioning? I have yet to come across this on mud. As a subarctic dweller I feel the rear heat is a option I want to keep, despite my battle against rust.

Running new soft lines is pretty common.

 

[danadog]

Did you not see my post directly above yours? lol

Ha! No I missed it!

 

[cody c]

I believe mine has been disconnected or isn't functioning, I've been meaning to reconnect it for a couple years, in cooler climates you should have it functioning

 

[YendraBuilt]

Leave it. I'm happy with it on low warming my Hydroflask coffee mug stuffed in between the seat and console, my daughter probably enjoys the extra heat as well. If I lived somewhere that didn't get really cold I'd ditch it.

 

[LS1FJ40]

I run my rear heat to thaw frozen water bottles and to dry out wet gloves.

I run the front on defrost or feet/defrost full time.

 

[decoco]

My rear heater is blowing but it's blowing only cold air. Front is blowing warm air.
Ran into this thread but don't really know what they're suggesting the OP do.

The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club :: View topic - Rear Heater Not Working (following Coolant Change)

Has anyone run into this ? I'm open to doing soft lines if it comes to it. I'd prefer to not bypass as I did use it when it ran warm.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

My rear heater is blowing but it's blowing only cold air. Front is blowing warm air.
Ran into this thread but don't really know what they're suggesting the OP do.

The Toyota Landcruiser Owners Club :: View topic - Rear Heater Not Working (following Coolant Change)

Has anyone run into this ? I'm open to doing soft lines if it comes to it. I'd prefer to not bypass as I did use it when it ran warm.

I would try back flushing the coolant lines from the firewall to the inside of the cab before replacing anything.

 

[Kaninja]

I ended up removing mine after the hardline split. I kept the heater from under the seat. One day I might reinstall it with new lines, but for now the front heater works well.....the kids don't complain THAT much.

 

[1911garand]

I removed mine. 0 issues. The front heater blows so hot no one notices, even below 0F. Less is more.

 

[clx16]

I prefer my rear heater over the front one

 

[greentruck]

One situation where it's really good to have the rear heat is when you have to deal with snow being tracked into the cabin. The rear heat helps a lot with keeping the rear windows defrosted/fog-free when there is excess moisture in the cabin.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Deleting the rear heater is easier than ever.

Precut and everything you need. 1 banana

Rear Heater Delete Hose - Land Cruiser Products - LCP

Land Cruiser Products Land Cruiser Parts

sites.google.com

 

[matty_sunn1]

Today it's -38c, -36f for those south of the border. Any amount and location of heat is welcomed. I run heated seats and both heaters. Put your boots, gloves, tools, beer by the rear heater. Anyone in the back will love you and so will your feet.

 

[SnowroxKT]

I use it for my kids in the back. Also nice for warming boots. haha.

I just bypassed the hard lines and ran heater hose all the way to the rear heater, zip tying it along the way. Wasn't that difficult to do.

Any idea on the lengths I will need to do this? Planning in ordering 1/2 Gates Green stripe hose and clamps from Wits End. 5' for each line enough? Any tricks to getting the hose connected behind the motor?

 

[b16]

Any idea on the lengths I will need to do this? Planning in ordering 1/2 Gates Green stripe hose and clamps from Wits End. 5' for each line enough? Any tricks to getting the hose connected behind the motor?

My notes say I used a 5/8" green stripe 16ft in length total. No tricks, ran the hose along the frame.

 

[SnowroxKT]

My notes say I used a 5/8" green stripe 16ft in length total. No tricks, ran the hose along the frame.

How did you secure the hose from the back of the engine down to the frame area?

 

[b16]

How did you secure the hose from the back of the engine down to the frame area?

Zip tied onto the old pipes IIRC. I would have to pop the hood and look when I get to the truck.

 

[SnowroxKT]

How is that holding up for you long term? I'm concerned about 2 things with the switch.

1. Fluid flow is hampered significantly by soft hose vs metal tubing.
2. Abrasion resistance of the rubber hose.

On the other hand the old rubber hose is what is currently leaking on mine, not the metal tubing although the metal tubing does show some corrosion. I could just replace the rubber and leave the tubing which is what I would prefer to do if the tubing was in good shape.

 

[greentruck]

SNIP... I could just replace the rubber and leave the tubing which is what I would prefer to do if the tubing was in good shape.

If your tubing is in better shape than your hose, then you've been pretty lucky. You'll certainly find out when you try to remove the hose from it...but then you might have to start finding a ride to the parts store if the tube end crumbles. Often the worst corrosion on these tubes is buried at their ends by the surrounding hose, only becoming visible on "disassembly."