Either way, it's better than the depreciation on a new car. Don't get crazy with mods either.
FJ80, a good buy in today's market?
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- #22
Yeah, the farthest I'd go with "mods" is eventually a set of 35s.
Land Cruisers are meant to be driven. Get one and use it for what it was designed for! "Invest" your money somewhere else.
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- #24
Oh I'd definitely be driving it. It'd be my DD for running around town and I'd take it out to run trails in the Ozarks on the weekends.
The "investment" thing would just be an added bonus.
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What if the reality is ... in terms of off road capability ... the particular LC in question is no more (or just a little more) capable than the XTerra you are referencing?
How does everything else filter out in that knowledge?
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- #26
Yeah the Nissan would probably go 99% of the places the LC would go stock for stock, even with the torsion bars and leafs. I'll admit I'm allured by the cache of the Land Cruiser badge.
And also if in the future I wanna get crazier with wheeling it the SFA is already there, so no need for a pricey SAS. Idk, the LC just seems like more of a "forever" vehicle. The Xterra would be a good truck and fine for doing trails, but seems like more of a disposable type vehicle I'd just wanna get rid of in 7 months like I did with my Tacoma. The $5k premium is a lot to stomach, but it might be a case of "buy once cry once". Also the Xterra fuel economy is almost as bad as the 80.
Don't get me wrong though, I'm still seriously considering the Nissan or a similar cheap alternative.
Just my opinion of course, but...
Easy money collects the top 1% of the badge.
Smart money buys the capability
$5k saved on purchase should cover alot of refreshing and getting at least a rear locker in the Nissan, instantly surpassing this 80 in capability by a good margin and still not reaching the 80's initial buy-in price.
Don't get me wrong, were this 80 equipped with lockers - either factory or functioning reputable aftermarket units - then the convo would lead in the opposite direction. But since it doesn't, it is apples to apples with pretty much anything else out there with 4-doors and "4x4".
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- #28
I see your point, but my thinking was that if I get to a point where I'm needing a locker in the Xterra, I'd be well into IFS-breaking territory. Also, it'd probably be a lunchnbox locker for the Nissan since I'd have a hard time justifying doubling the purchase price with an ARB.
I kinda thought F/R lockers would be overkill with the flex of the twin SAs unless you've already built it up into a rock crawler or something, but I've never driven one on trails so I can't speak to that. Also, if I really wanted lockers down the line, wouldn't ARBs or Harrops be more reliable than the 30 year old OEM ones?
Then there's the whole resale value thing.. a 2000 Xterra with a locked rear axle is still just a 20 year old Nissan to most prospective buyers. Also that rig has a leaking rear main seal and who knows, that could've cause more wear on the internals. The Ifz does have the typical mild oil consumption (worn valve seals?), but I had the impression 300k was almost guaranteed on the 1fz with decent maintenance?
I do think I could swing the LC if I really wanted to: it'd just be real tight for a few months and I'd have to pray the HG doesn't pop for a while (still original as far as they know). Like I said if the shop finds more issues with it and/or is the seller won't work with me any more in the price, I might have to reluctantly walk away and take your advice. Again I'm not an expert in these matters so I really appreciate you taking the time to share your perspective.
Lots of info here. My opinion is dont buy it as an investment. Cars dont work like that. If you cant work on it yourself no way can you afford it. I make ok money and if I had to pay a shop I would be driving a honda civic or a Camry. No way could I afford the old LC or have it the way I have it. Parts alone are a few thousand to do a proper baseline of a used 80 when you buy it. Every peice of rubber is 25 years old under that hood. Every suspension part or bearing and seal is also that old. And obviously I only recomend oem parts. It adds up.
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- #30
Yeah I posted that yuppy article, but I wouldn't be seeing it as an investment really. It's just that more likely to hold more of its value if I ever have to cut my losses.
I took my Tacoma to the shop and lost alot of money that way. This time I'd be determined to tackle more on my own and really cut my teeth on it. I guess I'd have to have a "fix it when it breaks" approach. As crx7 said, I'd try not to get too carried away with PM unless there was an obvious issue. I mean I'd do the essential stuff but probably wouldn't overhaul the whole engine or anything. I'm not saying extensive PM would be a bad thing, just being realistic. There's a fair few new parts on it, but it could probably use new rubber gaskets and hoses here and there from looking at it.
HGs would be my biggest concern. At least it's not a Land Rover.
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I am going to get on my soap box again about my one biggest topic. I dont think these trucks have a HG issue. I think it is just a iron block with a LONG aluminium head. If it over heats the head warps same as any motor. But in this case the head is so long if it twists some it is more likely to make a problem such as a HG failure.
That being said the coolant system is very critical. As with all cars failing to cool or lubricate a motor is the best way to destroy it. You can find a million threads about fan clutch mods, lovers on the hoods, not placing bumper mounted lights, engine temp gauges, aftermarket big radiators, aux fans and so on. My opinion is that this is mostly becouse the coolant systems are 25 years old and worn out. A lot of radiators in other cars get corroded, clogged crappy in 10-15 years. These are way past that. Hoses are brittle, thermostats get old and sticky and so on. Anyone part fails and the whole system fails costing you a motor or hg. Everytime you change anyone part in the coolant system you have to drain and fill it. The coolant system on these trucks should just be replace all at once, all oem as part of the initial PM procces. Once it is new temps will be great and it will be reliable. Dont try to replace one hose at a time. Just order every coolant hose all at once, thermostat, radiator, belts, heater valve and water pump. The fan clutch you could probably refill with some correct oil.
The only single expensive part is the radiator. But to me that ithe most critical and most likely to get clogged and rusty inside. I know I change coolant regularly. But most people dont. Assume the PO didnt do that for the last 25 years.
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- #32
The radiator was just replaced at a shop, and I assume they would've flushed the coolant while doing that. I'm not sure about all the other stuff you listed though. I saw at least one other coolant flush on the carfax report at around 100k.
For me..baselining means all new coolant hoses, radiator, tstat, pump, heater valve and the fan clutch. Everything else is step two. I feel you HAVE to do that first and at least. So add that to purchase price along with distilled water to flush and replacement coolant.
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- #34
I can ask that shop what all they did other than the radiator. At least the most expensive part is out if the way.
Just been here: I changed all of the hoses, the smaller ones and the phh. I’m trying to flush out all of the old coolant which was easy but the rust which remained is horrible. After 10x flushes with distilled water, I had to resort to Thermocure. Finally able to see clear water. I’m doing it myself but if a shop is doing it, I hope the coolant is the bright color your expecting (some go the traditional green or the Toyota 90s Red)
for context: my truck has NEVER seen a coolant flush.. so it’s taken longer, but man, the heat for the front and rear kick on hella fast after thermocure
No. Defer your desire to buy the cruiser or the Xterra. I was only half joking in the beginning. The road your are about to embark on involves alot of work, heartache, and joy. If I only had one vehicle, it would not be a 28 year old plus land cruiser. It would be the 2003 5 speed Camry I loaned to my son last year. Dead nuts reliable, parts everywhere, and even a technician could repair it. Trust me. Walk away to fight another day.
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- #37
I mean I've already been there with the Tacoma. I bought it for $5k thinking that was a bargain and it was gonna be bulletproof. I was soon after surprised with a bent hub and a cracked manifold,, and that was just the start. I used to have an 02 wrx as well which had its own maintenance headaches which led to me having to sell.
Alot is riding on the inspection at the shop: I should get a better idea of its true condition then.
But if it doesn't work out with the Cruiser, I'm almost certainly going with the Xterra: 2500 for a capable 4x4 is just too good to pass up. I think parts for those shouldn't be too hard to come by.
I don't know if I could go back to just a normal car honestly: I end up on rough roads a lot, both for recreation and fieldwork. An old Camry or TDI wagon would be cool for a runabout, but I might rather just get by without a car for the time being if that's the case.
My old 96 Camry was incredibly cheap to keep on the road though, so I definitely see your point on avoiding a money pit. I'll see what they say Monday and try to use my best judgement. If it really does seem well cared for/mostly highway miles I'll be mighty tempted.
Not usually[bywords]. Think of it in terms of the difference between flipping a switch on the dash or performing the manual labor involved in the act of winching as it relates to resolving a situation to continue upon your journey. And it's hot/cold out. And/or raining.
Heard good things about lunchbox-type. No personal experience.
OEM lockers would be a baseline item, so more reliable? Nah. Faster to engage maybe.
Bottom line is that capability lies in having them.
Admittedly, given no Xterra models came with a locker afaik, it is likely that adding one will indeed be a net sum loss at resale time. (unless you find that one guy...)
Plus Nissan probably didn't engineer the stock axle components to withstand the kinds of forces they would see as a locked unit.
Where Toyota likely did as there is very little diff between locked and unlocked LC axle components in terms of strength. (could be wrong here, but I haven't noticed a diff anyway) Yes there are stronger aftermarket units, just comparing OEM apples here.
Hope Mondays inspection can speak to anything that could be impacted by the rear main seal. If PO kept oil in it at a decent level, should be good just replacing the seal.
Seems the middle 50% have that experience so one in 3 chance of your experiencing the same. lol
Good luck. Think it'll work out how you need it to.
I think 50% is a 1 in 2 chance.
