FJ80, a good buy in today's market?

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LandLocked93 said:
Not usually[bywords]. Think of it in terms of the difference between flipping a switch on the dash or performing the manual labor involved in the act of winching as it relates to resolving a situation to continue upon your journey. And it's hot/cold out. And/or raining.

Heard good things about lunchbox-type. No personal experience.

OEM lockers would be a baseline item, so more reliable? Nah. Faster to engage maybe.
Bottom line is that capability lies in having them.

Admittedly, given no Xterra models came with a locker afaik, it is likely that adding one will indeed be a net sum loss at resale time. (unless you find that one guy...)
Plus Nissan probably didn't engineer the stock axle components to withstand the kinds of forces they would see as a locked unit.
Where Toyota likely did as there is very little diff between locked and unlocked LC axle components in terms of strength. (could be wrong here, but I haven't noticed a diff anyway) Yes there are stronger aftermarket units, just comparing OEM apples here.

Hope Mondays inspection can speak to anything that could be impacted by the rear main seal. If PO kept oil in it at a decent level, should be good just replacing the seal.


Seems the middle 50% have that experience so one in 3 chance of your experiencing the same. lol

Good luck. Think it'll work out how you need it to.
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Thanks. The rear main seal was on the Xterra, which I already had inspected. The LC is getting looked at tomorrow.

I think the rear diffs in the Xterra were known to be pretty strong from what I've read, so I should be getting into a good rig either way.
 
Just for an update:
Ok so I just got back the inspection results. Indeed, there is a lot of "baselining" that has to be done.

All the fluids are in so-so condition and will need to be changed. Coolant especially, which is worrying because of the HG.

It also will need brakes and tires fairly soon.

Their notes on other drivetrain components:

"Cracked rubber on all control arm mount bushings, both front shock mount bushings, rear shocks are leaking, all stabilizer bar link ball joint and mount bushings are cracked"

"Both tie rod ends have leaking and torn ball joint boots"

"All 4 driveshaft U joints are leaking"

Then there's the EGR thing

Finally, the underside is really wet. So much so you couldn't even tell where the leak was coming from.

At least there's no real rust problems, but my 98 Tacoma looked way better underneath other than that issue.

A lot of this stuff I could try to tackle on my own and spread it out a bit. Changing fluids would be the first order of business.

They told me this would still be a good buy at the shop, but again it's really pushing it for me. I mean you could probably fix it up a bit then flip it out west if you wanted. I've got until midday tomorrow to decide, but I'm leaning towards walking on it, as its dawning on me the gravity of the task. It'd really have to be a labor of love I suppose, but I'm just not sure I'd be able to swing it.
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Walk. No, run away. Baseline is now estimated at $2500 when you do it yourself. This is beyond baseline. Don’t get the Xterra either unless you are doing all the work yourself. Honestly, a new Hyundai at $99 a month sounds better if I were working in your shoes. I am not kidding or being smug. Don’t. Just stop.
 
Comet said:
Walk. No, run away. Baseline is now estimated at $2500 when you do it yourself. This is beyond baseline. Don’t get the Xterra either unless you are doing all the work yourself. Honestly, a new Hyundai at $99 a month sounds better if I were working in your shoes. I am not kidding or being smug. Don’t. Just stop.
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If I had money I could put 10k into and either have an amazing truck or sell it to some yuppy in California for 30k. But alas the poor stay poor..

I think the Xterra should be fine. I might have a shop do the rear main seal but I could take care of all the suspension and diffs etc. Also the exhaust manifold and timing belt have been done on that one.

Thanks again for the advice, but I'm kinda wondering why they're so lusted after (including by myself) if they're such heartaches and moneypits? I guess it's just that hard to find one that hasn't been neglected and/or driven into the ground over two decades and counting that they aren't asking collector prices for.. ah well
 
The allure to me is the opportunity to be a part of a cult following bigger than anything I can achieve by myself. Just the engineering that was involved to bring the Japanese level of quality to this machine is both awe inspiring and breathtaking. @Beno has used the Japanese word used to the uncompromising spirit it takes to design and build these machines. Xterra means twelve years, land cruiser transcends generations. Just my humble take on your journey. Best of luck with your decision.
 
SaturnAscends said:
I guess it can't transcend bankruptcy..
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Lol, no.
But you ask a great question, "Why?"
Actually kinda curious the reasons of others, but mine are as follows:

1) Capability - pre-current Jeep Rubicon, there were only 2 readily available vehicles on the market equipped by the factory with true 4wd. The 80 is one of them. (and technically the newer Rubi's are just a shell of capability what with all the inherently vulnerable software and sensors replacing many of the mechanical assys. otherwise necessary to enable true 4wd) This is where I believe alot of the 'allure' (sans relevant commitment) comes from - quality, robust, mechanical (reliable), off road capability.

2) Durability - Much of the 80's design enables it to be largely field repairable and withstand 25 years of third-world abuse between major services. (I think that's how it's stated) And as we are seeing, this almost encourages a first-worlder to completely ignore recommended service intervals, or delay service until the minor repairs become major. (this is where the 'shock' comes from to prospective new owners hearing of $5k in repairs after the purchase, but it's prudent and right if one can swing it)

3) Reliability - When you replace a part with another OEM part, you just secured yourself 20yrs of reliable service from that part. Not aware of any other make (apart from the other 1) with that level of built-in robustness. Essentially I know I'll never have to worry about everything I've base lined thus far w/OEM parts. Which is a great feeling and truly highlights that there is an end to madness...eventually.

I point to Jeep'ers who run to the aftermarket for parts, where committed 80 lovers use only OEM parts unless: it's a temp trail repair, time is of essence, cost v secondary or tertiary functionality, or OEM simply isn't available.

On the flip, the Nissan is a better fit for you at the moment imo. It's only temporary anyway and you'll get alot of fun out of it no doubt. It may even help focus your 80 build down the line.

:cheers: and happy trails 👍
 
Comet said:
The allure to me is the opportunity to be a part of a cult following bigger than anything I can achieve by myself. Just the engineering that was involved to bring the Japanese level of quality to this machine is both awe inspiring and breathtaking. @Beno has used the Japanese word used to the uncompromising spirit it takes to design and build these machines. Xterra means twelve years, land cruiser transcends generations. Just my humble take on your journey. Best of luck with your decision.
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LandLocked93 said:
Lol, no.
But you ask a great question, "Why?"
Actually kinda curious the reasons of others, but mine are as follows:

1) Capability - pre-current Jeep Rubicon, there were only 2 readily available vehicles on the market equipped by the factory with true 4wd. The 80 is one of them. (and technically the newer Rubi's are just a shell of capability what with all the inherently vulnerable software and sensors replacing many of the mechanical assys. otherwise necessary to enable true 4wd) This is where I believe alot of the 'allure' (sans relevant commitment) comes from - quality, robust, mechanical (reliable), off road capability.

2) Durability - Much of the 80's design enables it to be largely field repairable and withstand 25 years of third-world abuse between major services. (I think that's how it's stated) And as we are seeing, this almost encourages a first-worlder to completely ignore recommended service intervals, or delay service until the minor repairs become major. (this is where the 'shock' comes from to prospective new owners hearing of $5k in repairs after the purchase, but it's prudent and right if one can swing it)

3) Reliability - When you replace a part with another OEM part, you just secured yourself 20yrs of reliable service from that part. Not aware of any other make (apart from the other 1) with that level of built-in robustness. Essentially I know I'll never have to worry about everything I've base lined thus far w/OEM parts. Which is a great feeling and truly highlights that there is an end to madness...eventually.

I point to Jeep'ers who run to the aftermarket for parts, where committed 80 lovers use only OEM parts unless: it's a temp trail repair, time is of essence, cost v secondary or tertiary functionality, or OEM simply isn't available.

On the flip, the Nissan is a better fit for you at the moment imo. It's only temporary anyway and you'll get alot of fun out of it no doubt. It may even help focus your 80 build down the line.

:cheers: and happy trails 👍
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I'd say it has to do with the timeless styling, which people get pretty attached to. Even the new Bronco seems to take cues from the j80.

Regardless, I'm curious if you think the fzj80 will actually keep going up in value, or is it really just a fluke with the pandemic and whole overlanding fad?
 
The market will self correct shortly. The price of gasoline will be the next equalizer. I have owned my rig for a long time, it is not going anywhere anytime soon.
 
Comet said:
The market will self correct shortly. The price of gasoline will be the next equalizer. I have owned my rig for a long time, it is not going anywhere anytime soon.
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Huh, I assumed they would keep going up like the 55s and 60s, but I guess I could see them losing their luster if gas goes up and the overlanding thing fades and the used car market cools down.
 
Not to beat a dead horse, but attached below is the full report in case anyone's interested. They all seem like common wear items for these rigs but not insurmountable for a determined DIYer with some spare time on their hands.

Oil:BrakeFluid.png


UJoints.png


Steer:Brakes.png


Leaks:Bushings.png


Ps:Coolant:TransFluid.png
 
bhsdriller said:
Looks like all the common stuff that people usually replace

People get crazy on here about "baselining" but you could probably just do a brake job and send it for years without worry
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Would you say $8k is an artificially inflated price for it though? I've heard you can't touch them for under 15 on the west coast. Pretty much no rust on this one either except for exhaust.
 
I dont disagree, but depends on how you use your truck. its a 91, so if its in decent shape with no rust around 200k miles, things will need to be replaced and baselined, and that includes most of everything mentioned above and then some for my experience. I got a one owner clean truck with zero rust from AZ, and i still replaced 100% of the suspension, 100% of cooling system/upgrade, basic tune up kit for fuel and sparks, and that should be worthy of basic offroad/weekend trips. Every worthy upgrades for these trucks are between $500-$1000, so plan accordingly. The end result is a reliable/offroad/onroad worthy machine that will reward you for years to come....
 
Marco Lau said:
I dont disagree, but depends on how you use your truck. its a 91, so if its in decent shape with no rust around 200k miles, things will need to be replaced and baselined, and that includes most of everything mentioned above and then some for my experience. I got a one owner clean truck with zero rust from AZ, and i still replaced 100% of the suspension, 100% of cooling system/upgrade, basic tune up kit for fuel and sparks, and that should be worthy of basic offroad/weekend trips. Every worthy upgrades for these trucks are between $500-$1000, so plan accordingly. The end result is a reliable/offroad/onroad worthy machine that will reward you for years to come....
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From what people have said it'd be 2.5-3k in parts if you wanted to do everything right away. I think it'd be wise to start with the cooling system and changing oil and fluids etc.
 
SaturnAscends said:
From what people have said it'd be 2.5-3k in parts if you wanted to do everything right away. I think it'd be wise to start with the cooling system and changing oil and fluids etc.
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100% all fluids. and cooling is key. Although the 3FE OE radiator is stout, mine blew @ 220k. So source an OE unit or a CSF copper/brass is a good alternative if your relatively stock. These engine produces alot more heat and retains heat well, so cooling is key and must be addressed. HG is not a concern, but i still watch my temp like a hawk. Use OE parts.
 
Marco Lau said:
100% all fluids. and cooling is key. Although the 3FE OE radiator is stout, mine blew @ 220k. So source an OE unit or a CSF copper/brass is a good alternative if your relatively stock. These engine produces alot more heat and retains heat well, so cooling is key and must be addressed. HG is not a concern, but i still watch my temp like a hawk. Use OE parts.
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Radiator was replaced recently. Not sure of the quality, though.

I gather 3FE HGs don't have as much tendency to warp and leak like the 1fzs in this truck.

Seems like as long as the cooling system is in order it's not a huge concern though.
 
Where did all the talk about a '91 with a 3FE start? The link in the OP first post is to a '97 with a 1FZ-FE :hmm:
 
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