FJ80 3fe new guy with issues
- Thread starter jigglebear
- Start date
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4.88s and 35's you will be okay. If I hear it'll be to 5.29. Mine does not see extended highway trips. An hour drive max.
I believe the low range gear set and 4.88s would be the perfect combination. As far as "never passing a gas station" goes...mine never passed one on 265's....my geographic location requires me to run a taller, more aggressive tire.
I would love to run 265 all terrains with good results but the bottom line is, I can't here.
Btw..
The 91 is a 4 speed trans.
I believe the low range gear set and 4.88s would be the perfect combination. As far as "never passing a gas station" goes...mine never passed one on 265's....my geographic location requires me to run a taller, more aggressive tire.
I would love to run 265 all terrains with good results but the bottom line is, I can't here.
Btw..
The 91 is a 4 speed trans.
"I never passed one on 265's"..... lol, sad but true! I was just thinking back to when "the grass was greener"..... lol
- Thread starter
- #24
Seems there isn't much of a difference in fuel since im going to be weighed down. im slowly learning to travel lighter. when I first started overlanding I used to bring everything and the kitchen sink. no I have it dialed in pretty well with the exception of my two English mastiffs and the wife. I cant seem to get her to stay home haha. anyways.. I want 35s because I love the look and im pretty sure 265/75/16s wont get me through the rubicon. rubicon has always been a goal of mine and I will do it with this rig. yes I suppose I am the a hole going 5 over the speed limit but it will buff out. the kickdown cable seemed to be the icing on the top of the cake to all my work. at 150k since I had to replace my battery this week and no codes have come back. I consider this one a win boys. thanks for the help again gentlemen.
So I just did the pinch the air line going to the air idle control valve and my rpm's did drop down. Did I just find my problem with my idle being to high in park and or to low in drive? It's like a 425 dollar part, not something I want to replace if it's not actually bad, I removed it when cold measured it, let it warm up unplugged it measured it again. It's defiantly moving. Can it be its moving to much of to little?
Hey did you figure out your high idle issue? Was it the IAC valve?
I have not yet fixed it, next on my list is the O2 sensors and the charcoal canister. I have allot of pressure in my tank when the cap is removed and I can smell raw fuel from my exhaust. The IAC is like 450 bucks! Hoping it's not the issue.
Boy no kidding!! I have quite a bit of pressure in my tank also. My idle runs around 1200 in park so I'm kinda tracking that down. I have tune up pets in order from rock auto but haven't checked timing or anything yet. I've only had it about 2 weeks.
Yeah my idle is kinda all over the place. Going to add thermostat to my list as it take to long to warm up. When fully warmed up the idle when in drive at a light will drop down to around 450, with the AC on it rest right around 650. When cold it's more like 1200. Like I said in a earlier post I determined the gender of my cruiser as female because it's so hard to figure out what's bothering her. If the charcoal canister and O2 sensors don't do the trick I am taking her to a marriage councilor, I mean Toyota specialty diagnostic shop.
As far as the thermostat, you might measure the temp of the upper rad hose from a cold start to warm up with the new stat. I had an issue on my 3FE where apparently the housing erroded/corroded enough that even with the gasket in place coolant was getting passed the thermostat which made it hard to warm up the engine and caused other issues. If this is the case with yours you will need a thicker gasket or new housing.
One thing that got me looking into this is that every time I pulled the thermostat housing open, the gasket has always squirmed even though I was very careful to keep it aligned when installing the top piece.
Frank
One thing that got me looking into this is that every time I pulled the thermostat housing open, the gasket has always squirmed even though I was very careful to keep it aligned when installing the top piece.
Frank
Mine warms up super quick. It's just super weak and the idle is wonky. I've got an exhaust leak on an 02sensor bung. Some of my parts showed up today so I replaced the PCV valve. I'm gonna do cap plugs wires and fuel filter and then see where I'm at. I've seen people talking about advancing the timing a bit and also adjusting the throttle cable and tranny lockdown linkage? I'm not sure how it's supposed to be done, I haven't came across the instructions for it yet lol.
Sounds good. A bad charcoal canister will cause idle and power issues. Also, if the canister has been plugged causing it to run rich for a long enough time your cats could be plugged up which will sap power. I had that exact issue on mine.
One thing I noticed in my years with the 3fe is that if it starts up and runs well cold but then has issues when it warms up, it almost always means a sensor is sending faulty readings. As we know, when cold the engine ignores most of the sensors except the AFM and a few others. As it warms it starts to listen to temp sensors, O2, etc... so while that won't obviously pin down an issue, if the good/cold, bad/warm scenario is occurring it at least rules out a few things since you know the AFM is working as is the ISC.
Frank
One thing I noticed in my years with the 3fe is that if it starts up and runs well cold but then has issues when it warms up, it almost always means a sensor is sending faulty readings. As we know, when cold the engine ignores most of the sensors except the AFM and a few others. As it warms it starts to listen to temp sensors, O2, etc... so while that won't obviously pin down an issue, if the good/cold, bad/warm scenario is occurring it at least rules out a few things since you know the AFM is working as is the ISC.
Frank
That's really good info! Is there a way to bypass the charcoal cannister? The guy I bought it from said that it would barely run once warmed up. Like had to limp it across town. I trailered it about 60 miles home and have been driving it all over since with no problems like he described. The elevation difference from here to there is almost 3000 feet so I don't know if that matters or not. I've been waiting for the symptoms he described but they haven't showed up yet. I'm gonna look into that cannister and replace tho I think. Is there a way to test it?
Are you higher in elevation or lower? There is way to bypass the canister, search mud, it has been done. I am in Cali so had to keep all emissions hardware in working order thus never did that myself.
If you are lower you might be running rich.
If you are lower you might be running rich.
I'm about 4500 feet here. I live in Wyoming tho so no emission laws. I'd like to delete all of the egr and anything emission related cause I just don't need it.
If you have a CEL the ECU defaults to sea level 72F parameters if memory serves so if that was the case then yeah, you'd be a little rich. Though, if you smell fuel and have tank pressure I bet that is really pushing you rich. My canister got so bad that when I removed the fuel cap in the local mountains one summer fuel shot out of the fill port. It was not a desirable outcome.
There could always be more than one thing wrong but it sounds like getting the tank pressure/charcoal thing worked out is a good start.
Frank
There could always be more than one thing wrong but it sounds like getting the tank pressure/charcoal thing worked out is a good start.
Frank
Where exactly is the canister I have the same pressure issue.
In the engine bay on the passenger side down by the firewall it's 4 inches around or so and I guess 8 inches long. I can take a picture after work if needed.
If you have time that'd be great I'm having trouble finding it because I'm an idiot sometimes
Google it, there are loads of images on line and on this forum.
