FJ62 window motor goes up but not down (2 Viewers)

[JAX 1988 FJ62]

When I bought my 88 FJ62, the front passenger window did not operate at all. I just replaced the motor for that window and now that it’s installed, the new motor will work when pressing up on the switch (from both the driver master control and the passenger door control), but neither switch will make the motor go down.

Any ideas on troubleshooting? Thanks!

 

[86aggie]

Have you checked the master switch itself? I had the same problem. I was able to trace it down to the circuit on the switch. I used some of the liquid copper that they sell to repair defroster grids. That worked for a while, and when it failed, I bought an new master control switch panel.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

I read the FSM 2 years ago and saw the multimeter check on that system in trouble shooting. In Heavy Maintenance Manual BE60 it goes through checking voltage at each step. I thought I had a problem 2 years ago when actually a tooth on drivers side regulator sprocket was rounded off right at bottom limit. It go full down but would not go up. Probably not your deal but thinking out loud. I’ve got a spare arm in a box if needed, FJ62 drivers side. Got from BTB

 

[bottombracket]

Check the regulator teeth - I had this problem on my 62. You can also test the motor and regulator with a 12V battery and leads, or a voltage source. This will let you run the motor up and down, bypassing all switches and harness. You can work backwards from the motor and regulator itself in stepwise fashion.

Buy a new master switch snd 3 window switches from Partsouq RIGHT NOW if you have a gray interior. I just replaced my master switch today and had t replace the passenger from last year. They just wear out after 35 years and TOYOTA STILL MAKES THE SWITCHES. Buy now and keep them on the shelf until you need them...which might be now.

 

[JAX 1988 FJ62]

Have you checked the master switch itself? I had the same problem. I was able to trace it down to the circuit on the switch. I used some of the liquid copper that they sell to repair defroster grids. That worked for a while, and when it failed, I bought a new master control switch panel.

How did you trace it to the master switch? Multimeter?

Sorry for the dumb question, but what is liquid copper? Never heard of it and don’t see it when searching.

 

[86aggie]

Yes, on the multimeter - checking for continuity as I activated each switch position.

I'm calling it liquid copper - I'm sure it's got some other stuff in it as well. It's usually at the parts store in the electrical component area. It's sold as a method to repair the grid lines on defroster, like we have on the rear liftgate. There are a couple of consumer brands I've seen. Here is one:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/permatex/permatex-0-095-ounce-rear-window-defogger-repair-kit/per0/09117/v/a/8060/automotive-suv-1990-toyota-land-cruiser?q=defroster+repair&pos=0

There is also a commercial version that someone posted here in the past six months or so.

 

[TexasLandCruiser]

Hey Jax, any luck with continuity check? I came back to this was curious. I pulled the procedure for continuity, relay and motor. Pull your door card and peek up at your regulator crank teeth, those take a beating on either end of their travel. For some context this is before and after on the sprocket, smooth wear just enough to stall it. Welder tacked a bead on that tooth and filed it back to spec

 

[JAX 1988 FJ62]

Hey Jax, any luck with continuity check? I came back to this was curious. I pulled the procedure for continuity, relay and motor. Pull your door card and peek up at your regulator crank teeth, those take a beating on either end of their travel. For some context this is before and after on the sprocket, smooth wear just enough to stall it. Welder tacked a bead on that tooth and filed it back to spec

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Hey Texas, thanks for checking in. I have not been able to check continuity yet. I can say I do not have an issue with the teeth however. I tested it with 12v and swapped the leads and I could get it to run both directions. I’m thinking it’s got to do with the master switch and the down button for that passenger window. Just have not tested it yet. I’ll definitely reply here once I do and hopefully get to root cause.

 

[86aggie]

The issue with mine, on the same passenger front window, was carbon build up in the Master panel switch. None of the sprays could get behind the copper bands/rivets that make up the circuit.