FJ62 Turn Signal Buzz

[surfcraft3]

Searched the archives but couldn't find anything. When I fully engage my driver's side turn signal I hear a loud buzzing noise. It doesn't even happen all of the time but enough to be annoying. The dash lights and the actual turn signals are working. Is it possibly an issue with the relay?

 

[OSS]

Yes.
Typically relays buzz when they get insufficient voltage/current

 

[Richfj60]

I’m having this issue. What is the fix? Assuming it is at the fuse or relay?

 

[LCnAZ]

Can you guys locate the location of the buzz? Years ago I started having issues with turn signal noise, and it was the steering wheel combo switch.

 

[Richfj60]

Can you guys locate the location of the buzz? Years ago I started having issues with turn signal noise, and it was the steering wheel combo switch.

Mine sounds like it’s the fuse panel, but really haven’t investigated yet. Could very well be the combo switch. Wonder how to test?

 

[diesellibrarian]

Like @OSS said, a buzzing relay is usually the result of insufficient voltage on the circuit, very commonly caused by resistance due to a bad ground.

It could also be corroded connectors, broken wire, or even a faulty relay. But IMHO the first thing to do is check/clean the grounds on that circuit.

 

[Richfj60]

Hi again. I checked my grounds on the driver's side taillight, seem to be good. there is no break in the line. Symptoms- emergency flashers work fine, passenger side turn signal is normal, driver side is lit, but doesn't blink and the relay buzzes. I have an LED lamp in the tun signal, I'll try to find a filament bulb tomorrow. Thoughts? I am wondering if the bulb is bad, I've had gremlins with LED bulbs.

 

[BurntToast]

had the relay buzz in my 62 with LEDs, battery wasn’t charged all the way, low voltage

 

[Richfj60]

had the relay buzz in my 62 with LEDs, battery wasn’t charged all the way, low voltage

Just on one side? I keep the battery on a tender, so should be ok. Hope it's just a bad bulb.

 

[BurntToast]

There is only one flasher relay that can buzz

 

[Richfj60]

There is only one flasher relay that can buzz

I know, that's what's so odd. One side (passenger) is totally fine, the other is lit, but doesn't blink and buzzes. I think I can rule out the relay. Maybe a bulb issue or maybe the turn signal switch on the column?

 

[BurntToast]

I know, that's what's so odd. One side (passenger) is totally fine, the other is lit, but doesn't blink and buzzes. I think I can rule out the relay. Maybe a bulb issue or maybe the turn signal switch on the column?

possible, do you have the LED modified relay from @CruiserTrash ?

 

[Richfj60]

possible, do you have the LED modified relay from @CruiserTrash ?

No, but it worked fine before. Truck has been out of commission for a year, just putting it together after paint. Maybe the bulb got damaged.

 

[BurntToast]

Weird, well I have issues with my hazard but the blinkers work ok. So happy to hear what you learn

 

[CruiserTrash]

@Richfj60 So you have LED bulbs at all four corners in there now? Stock flasher?

It’s possible that the one bulb that stays lit has a longer wiring run, a more corroded wiring run, or rust/dust/dirt in the socket. Not surprising that one might be behaving differently. That could cause a lower current than the flasher module likes, so the oscillator doesn’t charge up all the way, and doesn’t fully trigger the relay - hence the buzz as the contacts slap together 1000 times per second. I’ve also noted that this electrical system does NOT like a mix of LED & incandescent in the blinkers - pick one and use that type for all four. The circuit also doesn’t like LEDs in the dash blinker indicators.

Once you sort out where the issue is and solve it, the blinkers will hyperflash if you’re running LED bulbs and the stock flasher unit. I have a fix for that so come see me after class.

 

[diesellibrarian]

I’m gonna get roasted for this, but I don’t see any compelling reason to use LED bulbs on a vintage vehicle.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I’m gonna get roasted for this, but I don’t see any compelling reason to use LED bulbs on a vintage vehicle.

Roast incoming…

Ever watched the voltage gauge on your 62 when you turn the blinker on? There a 0.5-0.75V dip. Not great, but not the end of the world. Now combine that with any other current consumption in the vehicle - HVAC blower, wipers, headlights, etc - and the voltage starts getting really low. Not only does that make each electrical device suffer, the HVAC blower might slow down for one example, but the engine rpms drop because the spark system isn’t able to pull the full current it wants to. If you dip below 12.6 system voltage, now you’re draining the battery.

Now, the reason for all of this - in my opinion - is because of two things. First the alternator isn’t able to supply a whole lot of current at idle. That’s fine, most aren’t. Mean Green or any of the “upgrade” alternators with a big number associated with them only supply that large amount of current when they’re spun up to high rpm. All alternators are pretty weak at idle. The second reason is that I feel the wiring gauges used in 60s are a bit undersized. This increases the resistance of the wire, causing a voltage drop, and less current delivered to each device. That’s where the larger charging cable comes into play with my fusible link replacement kit. Just upsizing the cable providing current from the alternator to the battery (and rest of the system) usually yields a 0.5-1V increase at idle. Upsizing ground cables, and cleaning the rest of the ground contact points, helps quite a bit too.

So what do LEDs have to do with any of this? They use far less current. They put less load on the system, freeing up available current supply for other things we can’t change, like the wipers or HVAC blower. It gives you more “headroom” so your spark system doesn’t suffer at idle and make the engine have lower rpm. Now, I will say I still run halogen headlights. A lot of LEDs don’t look “period correct”, which is a concern for some people (me) but not others. I’m fully LED except the headlights, but it took a long time to find ones that look appropriate for a 1982 vehicle.

That’s my long winded roast!

 

[BurntToast]

Roast incoming…

Ever watched the voltage gauge on your 62 when you turn the blinker on? There a 0.5-0.75V dip. Not great, but not the end of the world. Now combine that with any other current consumption in the vehicle - HVAC blower, wipers, headlights, etc - and the voltage starts getting really low. Not only does that make each electrical device suffer, the HVAC blower might slow down for one example, but the engine rpms drop because the spark system isn’t able to pull the full current it wants to. If you dip below 12.6 system voltage, now you’re draining the battery.

Now, the reason for all of this - in my opinion - is because of two things. First the alternator isn’t able to supply a whole lot of current at idle. That’s fine, most aren’t. Mean Green or any of the “upgrade” alternators with a big number associated with them only supply that large amount of current when they’re spun up to high rpm. All alternators are pretty weak at idle. The second reason is that I feel the wiring gauges used in 60s are a bit undersized. This increases the resistance of the wire, causing a voltage drop, and less current delivered to each device. That’s where the larger charging cable comes into play with my fusible link replacement kit. Just upsizing the cable providing current from the alternator to the battery (and rest of the system) usually yields a 0.5-1V increase at idle. Upsizing ground cables, and cleaning the rest of the ground contact points, helps quite a bit too.

So what do LEDs have to do with any of this? They use far less current. They put less load on the system, freeing up available current supply for other things we can’t change, like the wipers or HVAC blower. It gives you more “headroom” so your spark system doesn’t suffer at idle and make the engine have lower rpm. Now, I will say I still run halogen headlights. A lot of LEDs don’t look “period correct”, which is a concern for some people (me) but not others. I’m fully LED except the headlights, but it took a long time to find ones that look appropriate for a 1982 vehicle.

That’s my long winded roast!

I would emphasize in my fusible link and wiring deep dive that I agree, Toyota undersized the main wires given the evident voltage drops across the vehicle. 10% drops over the relatively small vehicle is pretty unfortunate to see

 

[Richfj60]

Good morning! I did have one incandescent bulb in on front corner. I hadn’t installed my grill, so didn’t realize it was there. Going to remove the LEDs and try the one bulb I have to see if that is the issue. Likely going to order the LED relay soon. Fingers crossed!!! I’ll try after work today.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Good morning! I did have one incandescent bulb in on front corner. I hadn’t installed my grill, so didn’t realize it was there. Going to remove the LEDs and try the one bulb I have to see if that is the issue. Likely going to order the LED relay soon. Fingers crossed!!! I’ll try after work today.

The flasher won’t work with just one bulb installed. It likes to see all four, and all four of the same type! I can almost guarantee you flasher is buzzing because that one bulb was different than the others! Hopefully that solves the problem! Like I said, hyperflashing will happen if you go with four LEDs but that’s to be expected. Good luck!