FJ62 Fuel Pump Location (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 1, 2005
Threads
158
Messages
2,817
Location
Colorado
Having had to drop my tank on the trail to replace the fuel pump once I know it's not something I want to do again. Can someone provide dimensions/location of the fuel pump for me so I can cut an access panel in the bed? Yes, cutting the hole is also something I only want to do once. ;)
 
I don't have dimensions but I hope these pictures help you:

tlc001.jpg


tlc003.jpg


tlc007.jpg
 
Thanks Randy, pretty much just to the right of the sender, right?
 
Measure the diameter of the sender unit by taking off the inspecton cover in your truck and then use that measurement on my picture to scale it. That will give you a rough idea ±0.5 inches of where you need to make your cut.

And yes, it's just to the passenger side of the sender unit.
 
DSCN0234.webp

What I found is you have to cut farther back all the way to the cross member to pull the fuel lines into the cargo area. You also have to slightly bend them to get them out. Once I got over my fear of breaking the lines, it was easy to get it out. Thanks to Edwin at Land Cruiser Specialists in Austin, TX for walking me through it.

I used a circular saw with a metal cut off blade. If you do all your cutting before disconnecting the lines and taking the screws out of the assembly, I don't see a problem with it. Obviously, cut off blades create sparks, so if you have any gasoline vapor in your cargo area, you could blow up yourself and your LC. I adjusted the height so the blade wouldn't be low enough to nick the lines. I also pulled the wire out of the way while I cut. All told, it took me about 30-45 min of labor to cut, disconnect, pull and exchange.
DSCN0234.webp
 
View attachment 408387

What I found is you have to cut farther back all the way to the cross member to pull the fuel lines into the cargo area. You also have to slightly bend them to get them out. Once I got over my fear of breaking the lines, it was easy to get it out. Thanks to Edwin at Land Cruiser Specialists in Austin, TX for walking me through it.

I used a circular saw with a metal cut off blade. If you do all your cutting before disconnecting the lines and taking the screws out of the assembly, I don't see a problem with it. Obviously, cut off blades create sparks, so if you have any gasoline vapor in your cargo area, you could blow up yourself and your LC. I adjusted the height so the blade wouldn't be low enough to nick the lines. I also pulled the wire out of the way while I cut. All told, it took me about 30-45 min of labor to cut, disconnect, pull and exchange.

Well done. I will have to trim my opening further if I ever want to take mine out again.
 
Thanks guys, after too long I finally did mine. I no longer fear having to do a fuel pump on the trail or anywhere else.
IMG_2448.webp
IMG_2447.webp
IMG_2449.webp
 
Nicely done - and you didn't blow up like everybody says you will.
 
I like the patchwork. Looks clean without too much modification.
 
Nicely done - and you didn't blow up like everybody says you will.

I'm still here Zapatius :D

An air hose blowing across the surface was the measure of safety.

I like the patchwork. Looks clean without too much modification.

Thanks Randy, I'm figuring I've assured my fuel pump will now never fail.
 
Dropping the tank on the trail would be no fun,but in the driveway its a 2 hour or less job. mike
 
Thanks, the pictures were especially helpful of the shape of the cutout.
I drained the gas tank first just to be a bit over the top safe. Plus I was wanting to see if there was any crud in the tank.
All looked good!
 
I drained the gas tank first just to be a bit over the top safe.

its not the liquid gas that's flammable, it's the vapor...an empty gas tank is far more dangerous than a full one.
 
I had my tank re- lined years ago and have since installed a drawer system and the gasoline is so lousy anymore as is my mileage I have been drooling over that long range tank for years but concerned about it dragging in my unconventional form of four wheeling. I am hoping to do that tank, while under construction create a dedicated access point to maintain everything that will resemble the factory port only as one stop shop. Remove the drawer unit from above and pull the access cover to get to your goodies beneath and move forward. With that being said I will create a much larger access cover in order to avoid dropping a large tank with corroded straps. My biggest concern is the reliability of the modified float/ rod/ sender for the gas level. I am a certified lifelong welder but brazing/ soldering is not my fancy and based on a college degree and based upon a lifelong career in the welding department my experience says brazing thin rods may be ok for plumbing but that modification has no business in a fuel tank. Just sayin.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom