I don't think so, you need one with a vent.
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question for you, which wires did you tap into to make the VSV work? ie: what were the wire colors and what was the orientation they plugged into the VSVThanks to @pappy I hooked my fuel regulator VSV back up. I took apart the factory plug by removing the wires (after marking them) and only left the two wires for the VSv I was using. I soldered in a couple of wires and ran them in the loom to the alternator, then put them in a heat resistant sleeve to the vsv. To go back to stock, I would only need to splice two wires.
Not as pretty an engine bay, but this is what it ended up looking like.
EDIT!! Please note the vsv rubber lines are hooked up backwards!!!
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Looks like L-R and Y-R. Since this is a DC switch I don't think orientation matters. Both wires on the VSV side are black (brown?).question for you, which wires did you tap into to make the VSV work? ie: what were the wire colors and what was the orientation they plugged into the VSV
thank youLooks like L-R and Y-R. Since this is a DC switch I don't think orientation matters. Both wires on the VSV side are black (brown?).
would it be possible to share where the top port connects to that goes out of frame?There are three VSVs on the fender. My opinion is you can remove two of the three. The third is not for an emissions device, but goes to the fuel pressure regulator. You can simplify the routing by moving the VSV between the vacuum source and the regulator. See pic.
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