FJ62/3FE sheared one of the serpentine pulleys

[TheElegantFox]

Was reversing out of a driveway last night and when I shifted to drive I heard a clunk and lost the power steering. Moved the truck a few hundred feet before I shut it off.

Upon inspection I found the serpentine belt thrown off and the bottom pulley sheared off hanging in the belts. Chewed up the fan blade pretty bad so I’ll need a new one of those.

My main concern is the pulley shear, what pulley is on the bottom of the layout? Could any permanent damage have occurred? Are pulleys know to shear off?

 

[TheElegantFox]

With this it looks like crank pulley failure.

 

[F226continental]

Your key way failed it looks like

Was there a piece of keystock when you took it apart?

 

[TheElegantFox]

Your key way failed it looks like

Was there a piece of keystock when you took it apart?

It looked gone when I took the crank pulley off.

 

[OSS]

I bet the nut holding that harmonic balancer (crank pulley) was loose before it detonated. But just a hunch.

 

[F226continental]

I have welded a few crankshafts where the key way was working loose and remachined the key way.

There is constant torquing on this pulley. The tighter the better when it goes together.

Make sure when you put it together that the key way fits tight in both directions, if the key way “walks “ in the slot, wear and wobble increases

 

[F226continental]

I bet the nut holding that harmonic balancer (crank pulley) was loose before it detonated. But just a hunch.

Almost definitely

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Was reversing out of a driveway last night and when I shifted to drive I heard a clunk and lost the power steering. Moved the truck a few hundred feet before I shut it off.

Upon inspection I found the serpentine belt thrown off and the bottom pulley sheared off hanging in the belts. Chewed up the fan blade pretty bad so I’ll need a new one of those.

My main concern is the pulley shear, what pulley is on the bottom of the layout? Could any permanent damage have occurred? Are pulleys know to shear off?

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i have seen this happen on various Toyota engine family platforms in my life time

one thing is always a constant , something , some one or something else caused or affected the main BIG Hex nut to become loose , and lose its PRE-LOAD TOURQUE YIELD ?

- or

it was simply NEVER Torqued properly in recent or not so recent time ?


any recent repairs like a leeky crank shaft seal in say the last year or so , or less ?

excessive heat build up in the engine block can cause the nut to vibrate loose


a broken front motor mount can cause a vibration so severe it can litterly shake the pizz out of the front of the engine area , and the nuts can vibrate loose slowly over time or quickly att at one time

i saw many of this happen on the 22R and 22RE platforms while still working at dealership level , along with the crank nut / bolt coming off , the slinging the harmonic balancer off like a wild carnival ride ........

one or both front motor mounts would be fractured at the vulcanized rubber block sandwiched between top and bottom layers of metal


so , what came first ?

the cause does ,

check both front motor mounts well , inspect them real good


did you overheat recently in ANY way shapr or form ?

lastly , it is a RECORD HET HOTTER then your Manifolds in the direct sunshine ////.........................SUMMER SEASON every where .........


i will admit that i have a long leap Theory and say outdoors ambient temp like up in pacific north west have long term and short term affects on older mechanical Devices of any kind shape and form , ........


contributing factors skool of thought .............


you WILL Need a Crank Shaft Speedy Sleeve KIT from SOR.com , a New KEY way , wood drift key also Toyota calls them , lastly a new JAPAN crankshaft seal too


My honest real world suggestion , and my simple low stress path would be , just SOURCE ALL needed parts from SOR.com


why ?

because , there liklely to have a Pre-Owned New to you Crank Pully harmonic balancer in stock , SOR will have checked it out well , they have in House tech's like CURT ,

what ever you do , IN now way buy a replacement crank pully off some................

JOE-SCHMOE on EBAY !

dont even think about that idea .....

you will get your feelings hurt to say the least , i have been there myself and ill never go back , in a parts critical mission need at hand

they call is " BALLANCER " for a very Technical reason ........


i think i have seen NEW aftermarket ones too , SOR sells a 2F NEW one aftermarket , made in the AU down in OZ


last point , here in MUD classifieds is a good place to look wanted ad

there are several MEMBERS who seam to specialize in the 3FE part outs . , they would be solid leeds , the ones i think of are all long term members and trustworthy OLD timers too , if you follow me here ?



good luck i hope you get thru this well


matt

 

[ToyotaMatt]

some diagrams and links i recommend personally :

SPEEDYSLEEVE
Specter Off Road now offers a SpeedySleeve to repair a crank pulley with a grooved seal surface. If you can catch your fingernail on the groove where the seal rides, then you need a SpeedySleeve. Comes with installation tool and instructions.

​

Buy	Quantity	Part Number	Description	Price	In Stock	Picture (Click to Enlarge & Close)	Installation Instructions
		034-15Z-S	SPEEDI SLEEVE - Fits 1958-8/92 F/2F/3F gas engines - Repairs a crankshaft pulley with a grooved seal surface - Comes with installation tool

​

034-16B

OEM CRANKSHAFT PULLEY KEY - Fits 9/69-8/92 F/2F gas engines

​

034-15H-U

USED CRANKSHAFT PULLEY - Fits 8/87-8/92 3F gas engine - SOR recommends purchase of Key-ways 034-16 & 034-18 separately.

​

034-29K

TIMING COVER SEAL - Fits 10/84-1/90 2F/3F gas engines

 

[TheElegantFox]

"did you overheat recently in ANY way shapr or form ?"

I have had some minor overheating problems earlier this year but they went away once the coolant lines burped out the air bubbles, the shop that did it wasn't great.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

"did you overheat recently in ANY way shapr or form ?"

I have had some minor overheating problems earlier this year but they went away once the coolant lines burped out the air bubbles, the shop that did it wasn't great.

any other repairs in last 2 years at all ,

like new drive belts , or a component replace like a alternator ? for example

some un-skilled LOSERS out there will use a socket to turn or rotate a engine manually for needed related repairs or a valve adjust ment for example

the 3FE is higher compression , so in turn u put a 1./2 breaker bar or large ratchet and rotate engine counter clock wise

you are infact loosening the nut on crank ?


im just throwing ideas here on Stuff i have seen live in my life ........

but the cause should be established if all possible ?

and any new to u crank pulley nut , RED LOCHTITE the threads hard core .....

that stuff works in my Teq world .......

 

[TheElegantFox]

any other repairs in last 2 years at all ,

like new drive belts , or a component replace like a alternator ? for example

some un-skilled LOSERS out there will use a socket to turn or rotate a engine manually for needed related repairs or a valve adjust ment for example

the 3FE is higher compression , so in turn u put a 1./2 breaker bar or large ratchet and rotate engine counter clock wise

you are infact loosening the nut on crank ?


im just throwing ideas here on Stuff i have seen live in my life ........

but the cause should be established if all possible ?

and any new to u crank pulley nut , RED LOCHTITE the threads hard core .....

that stuff works in my Teq world .......

Let me check my stack of service papers, I feel like it's gotten new belts. I definitely had the ac compressor rebuilt, so that'd be a belt off service. Most were done 1/2 years ago.

 

[3_puppies]

thanks @ToyotaMatt,
I do have several in stock but this is tech not classifieds.

the OP needs a 3FE crank pulley versus a 2F
the 2F has a much larger a/c pulley than the 3FE version, I think it is because the 3FE revs higher so it doesn't spin the a/c compressor to fast???

if the pulley was off the crank, the nut was long gone?
how is the groove for the key in the crank? does it need repair?
how are the threads on the crank? do you need to find a die to chase the threads?
is there any wear on the nose of the crank where the pulley goes? any wear will need to be fixed
is there any damage to the timing cover?
along with the fan, I'd probably replace all 3 drive belts
easy way to check motor mounts is to use a piece of wood or steel to spread the load and use a floor jack on the oil pan and see if there is separation at the mounts, usually it will be the driver side, as that is the way the engine torques up, pulling it apart

 

[TheElegantFox]

thanks @ToyotaMatt,
I do have several in stock but this is tech not classifieds.

the OP needs a 3FE crank pulley versus a 2F
the 2F has a much larger a/c pulley than the 3FE version, I think it is because the 3FE revs higher so it doesn't spin the a/c compressor to fast???

if the pulley was off the crank, the nut was long gone?
how is the groove for the key in the crank? does it need repair?
how are the threads on the crank? do you need to find a die to chase the threads?
is there any wear on the nose of the crank where the pulley goes? any wear will need to be fixed
is there any damage to the timing cover?
along with the fan, I'd probably replace all 3 drive belts
easy way to check motor mounts is to use a piece of wood or steel to spread the load and use a floor jack on the oil pan and see if there is separation at the mounts, usually it will be the driver side, as that is the way the engine torques up, pulling it apart

I am worried about timing damage, the vehicle is in an apartment parking lot so no wrenching is happening but I can take more looks while I wait for the local shops to open and then I’ll flatbed it to one. There’s a chance I’ll need to coordinate on parts though.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

thanks @ToyotaMatt,
I do have several in stock but this is tech not classifieds.

the OP needs a 3FE crank pulley versus a 2F
the 2F has a much larger a/c pulley than the 3FE version, I think it is because the 3FE revs higher so it doesn't spin the a/c compressor to fast???

if the pulley was off the crank, the nut was long gone?
how is the groove for the key in the crank? does it need repair?
how are the threads on the crank? do you need to find a die to chase the threads?
is there any wear on the nose of the crank where the pulley goes? any wear will need to be fixed
is there any damage to the timing cover?
along with the fan, I'd probably replace all 3 drive belts
easy way to check motor mounts is to use a piece of wood or steel to spread the load and use a floor jack on the oil pan and see if there is separation at the mounts, usually it will be the driver side, as that is the way the engine torques up, pulling it apart

thanks for the reminder , about the tech topic Paul , i edit my post properly , i just want the best outcome for @TheElegantFox ,





i have see the destruction this odd Toyota thing occurs , but if approached carefully , with a plan , the speedy sleeve topic works well and save a engine as a whole ....

 

[3_puppies]

I am worried about timing damage, the vehicle is in an apartment parking lot so no wrenching is happening but I can take more looks while I wait for the local shops to open and then I’ll flatbed it to one. There’s a chance I’ll need to coordinate on parts though.

there should be no issue with the timing itself as the gears are are inside the cover.
my WAG is the engine will start and run just fine right now, just with no cooling as the waterpump won't be turning
is there a shop that works on older rigs? or landcruisers?

 

[Godwin]

there should be no issue with the timing itself as the gears are are inside the cover.
my WAG is the engine will start and run just fine right now, just with no cooling as the waterpump won't be turning
is there a shop that works on older rigs? or landcruisers?

x2

 

[TheElegantFox]

there should be no issue with the timing itself as the gears are are inside the cover.
my WAG is the engine will start and run just fine right now, just with no cooling as the waterpump won't be turning
is there a shop that works on older rigs? or landcruisers?

Yeah, I have been taking it to a vintage 4x4 place but lately their repairs haven't been good quality since they're more focused on blank check restorations now. I'm going to check out a Land Rover specialist that an FJ40 owner recommended to me at a car show. I also need the passenger's side hub rebuilt so I'll get that done too.

 

[Godwin]

Torque recommended in the FSM for a 2F is 116-144 ft-lbs, for a 3F 253 ft-lbs or twice +/- as much. If the shop that last installed the crank nut used the lower 2F value that could explain the loss of the crank nut.

 

[TheElegantFox]

Torque recommended in the FSM for a 2F is 116-144 ft-lbs, for a 3F 253 ft-lbs or twice +/- as much. If the shop that last installed the crank nut used the lower 2F value that could explain the loss of the crank nut.

That makes a lot of sense, I'll bet that's what happened.