fj62--3FE idle problems finally fixed!! (1 Viewer)

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slcfj62 said:
The bottom screw on the TPS is the problem child. I didn't have an angle screw driver, so I had to take the piece off that bolts on directly in front of the TPS (to the right of the TPS if you are standing on the side with the air cleaner). Be careful not to mess up the gasket. You can't move it very far because it has some little coolant lines attached to it. But you can move it away far enough to get a long screw driver into the bottom screw. Pop the electrical connector off of the TPS and measure the resistance (ohms) between the IDL and the E2 pins as you rotate the TPS. With the throttle closed, you should get a resistance measurement. Then if you open the throttle a little bit, the resistance goes to infinite. Close the throttle and you should get a measurement again. Tighten down the screws and put it back together. In my case, the IDL-E2 resistance with the throttle closed was way less than the maximum specified in the FSM. After I did this to mine, the idle smoothed right out, idled lower, and dropped to 650 rpm after it warmed up.

As far as the other TPM resistance values, the only one that should change (other than IDL) is the VTA pin. It should vary smoothly between about zero and whatever your VC-E2 resistance is as you open and close the throttle.

Good luck.
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The tip on removing the device in front of the TPS was much appreciated.

I went through and tried turning the TPS till the Ohm meter gave a reading with the throttle closed. Cleared the code and sure enough - no code 51! Yay. Start it up, and it won't idle. Booo...

If I hold the revs to 1700 I can keep it running, but just barely and its rough. Let go and it will drop to around 600rpm and then shut down.

I then followed the procedure in the FSM for adjusting the TPS using a feeler gauge. Put it all back together, and same thing.

To make matters worse, I combined repairs, so I'm not sure if my issue isn't from replacing the thermostat which I did at the same time. Lesson learned there - don't mix repairs.

I've also put the TPS back to approximately the original position and same thing, won't idle and stalls out.

These were the only two repairs I was doing, and I've gone over all the vacuum lines checking for brittle, or disconnected and didn't find anything unusual.

When I was adjusting the TPS, the readings, although within spec, weren't what I would call responsive. The ranges are so broad its kind of hard not to get a reading within spec. What I'm wondering, is if moving the TPS has somehow made it fail. I would have been happy to live with the code 51.

I'll take any suggestions at this point.
 
krashe said:
I went through and tried turning the TPS till the Ohm meter gave a reading with the throttle closed. Cleared the code and sure enough - no code 51! Yay. Start it up, and it won't idle. Booo...

If I hold the revs to 1700 I can keep it running, but just barely and its rough. Let go and it will drop to around 600rpm and then shut down.
Click to expand...

UPDATE: I figured it out. When pulling air cleaner cover, MAS and its tube away from the throttle body, the old 'not-so-flexible' tubing split. Hard to see in the dark. Wrapped duct tape around it as a test, and it works. Code 51 cleared. Idles nice at ~700-800. Done
Phew
 
My intake tube split as well. As I recall it was about $80. Glad you got it figured out. If you would have taken it to a shop to fix your problems, it would have cost you a lot more than $80. Not only is it educational and kind of fun to work on these old girls, it will save you a lot of money. And thanks for closing the loop and sharing how you fixed it. This is always very helpful to the next guy that comes along.
 
This is a great post. I'm having a high idle issue as well, although it does 'try' to idle lower from time to time, but just keeps going back up to 1100 or so. Never really settles down, but it's trying. TPS?, you guys think? I''ll do the FSM resistance tests, but the truck runs really well, just idles high.
 
Adjusted the TPS...seems better. Have to wait until it stops raining to take it out for a spin to really check it out. She's a bit of a garage queen right now...Really not too bad a fix to do...Thx
 
Idle

TPS adjustment did the trick...Thank God. What a battle solving an irregular idle problem.
 
Just as a data point, mine was always idling all over the map. sometimes 2k, sometimes 1k. Had a code 22 on the CEL and research here said that while it was stating that the Water Temp sensor was the ticket, it could be other things. I did the WTS and she purrs now.

Just thought I'd add that in there.
 
Thanks for posting this up. I, too, had a 11-12k idle. Checked the codes and found a 51. Did the above adjustment and, voila!, 650 idle!
 
Works for me
 
My advice boot the desktop up down load and save your own copy of the three files.
 
erikgil said:
Just as a data point, mine was always idling all over the map. sometimes 2k, sometimes 1k. Had a code 22 on the CEL and research here said that while it was stating that the Water Temp sensor was the ticket, it could be other things. I did the WTS and she purrs now.

Just thought I'd add that in there.
Click to expand...

I've been having this same problem for several months. Was getting code 22 and the one for o2 sensors. Replaced o2 sensors and WTS but now getting code 51. Will be looking at the TPS this weekend!
 
Be careful on the part number if you have to order a new TPS.
The Toyota catalog part number did not fit my '89 3FE throttle body.
My Throttle body blades that turn the TPS are setting at 12 and 6 o'clock when at idle position.
The TPS part number 89452-14050 has the pads at 3 and 9 o'clock. This part can not work on my throttle body.
The part number 89452-28030 (Denso 198500-0201) is what I believe has the pads at 12 and 6 that can work with my '89 throttle body.
I'll find out this weekend when the new parts order arrives.
 
Just got the new TPS. Will be installing this tomorrow. This has the correct pressure pads on the sensor that fit my '89 3FE.
Toyota part 89452-20050
Denso part 198500-0191

20160415_231946.jpg


20160415_232108[1].jpg
 
my 62 has been idling high since I bought it 6 months ago. finally have the throttle body off and cleaned it. Also took off the TPS but can't figure out how to adjust it. The screws you guys mention above...are you literally loosening the two screws that hold the TPS on the throttle body and rotating the whole TPS until it ideas better or are there screws inside the TPS I need to adjust? Can't figure out how to get the cover of the TPS off to see what the diagram shows (above). Lastly, the rotating piece on the backside of the TPS does not seem to be rotating fully back to the stopper when I spin it....is that the problem? It needs to be lubed up to reset properly and then my idle will be fixed?
 
slcfj62 said:
I've had my 62 since last May, and have been slowly working my way through all the issues that have accrued over the years--everything from minor rust issues to cooling system issues, to charging system failure, etc. Before I found MUD, and before the realization finally sank in that I was going to need to maintain this thing myself, I took it to an independent mechanic and then a Toyota dealer, to try to get a nagging rough idle fixed. A few hundred dollars later, it wasn't any better than before. The idle sat around 900 rpm (I thought maybe the tach was reading a little high) and was not smooth. Every 3 or 4 seconds it would cut out for a split second, and then come back.

Searching MUD eventually led me to the thread in the FAQ section about the Fuel Pulsation Dampener. I checked mine, and sure enough, the screw was out. I thought HaHa this must be it! I screwed it in, but no help. I noticed fuel stains around the dampener and so decided to just replace it. After I replaced the dampener, the idle cut out went away, but it still did not idle smooth and the idle sat around 900 rpm even after it was warmed up.

Today, I decided to just start going through all the EFI system checks. To begin with, I figured I'd put the ECU in diagnostic mode just to say I had done it. The Check Engine light had not been coming on (other than when the key was first turned on), so I hadn't felt the need to do this previously. I stuck the paper clip in the holes and went around to take a peak at the blinking light. Low and behold, I had an error! An error 51. The FSM pointed to several things that could cause this problem, but I was pretty sure they were all OK--except for the throttle position sensor. I wasn't sure about that. So I popped the connector off and did the resistance check as detailed on page FI 69. I had a problem! the IDL-E2 check with the throttle closed was infinite ohms. By loosening the screws, I turned the Throttle Position Sensor until I got a IDL-E2 reading with the throttle closed. Opened the throttle a little and the reading went to infinite like it is supposed to. Connected everything back up and started it up. Idled smooth as silk at about 800 rpm. After it warmed up for a few minutes, the idle dropped right down to about 650, just like the book says. And it was just purring along. I couldn't believe it!

So I learned my lesson. Number one: I am my own mechanic for this rig. Number 2: My first step in trouble shooting anything engine related is to check ECU diagnostics.

And yes I cleared the error, and then rechecked again after I ran the engine for awhile, and the error is all gone. Yippee!!!
Click to expand...
You have an old thread for EVERY SINGLE one of my problems!! My FJ62 thanks you and so do I!
 
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