FJ60 parking brake stuck (1 Viewer)

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Feb 20, 2002
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Coeur d’Alene, Idaho
So my FJ60's parking brake is stuck. The lever going into the back of the drum is stuck in the braking position. Can't get it to move and can't get the drum off. I don't know if the drum is bound up by the pads or some other reason. Anyone have some suggestions on how to get it unstuck or the drum off?
 
i had the same thing happen...the bracket on the outside of the drum that pulls the brake on was stuck out so the brake stayed on..i wacked it with a wrench and add some wd40 and it works perfect now.... good luck
-al
 
Yep tried that, didn't work. Actually both sides were sticking. Pounding and lubing worked on one side but not the other. It is really really stuck.
 
Keep banging away and when you get it unstuck, open up the rear brakes and take out the bell crank. You'll find a stainless sleeve in there with rust build up between the housing and the sleeve. Toss the sleeve, grease it up good and put it together.
It's a common '60 problem.
 
hmmm sledge hammer.....
yeah cruisers dont roll so well with a stuck e-brake....sorry man im out of ideas just try hitting with somthing bigger...how hard did ya pull it up? try chillin on the right arm excersizes jk
-al
 
I had this problem off and on, and then finally permanently on. WD40 unstuck mine. I had to spray a whole lot into the rubber boot (work the straw in there and let 'er rip) and wait a while, then work the hand lever a bit, it finally came undone. Now I spray some in there every six months or so just to keep it working.
 
I've sort of got the same issue - there's a Y junction in the cable with a boot (behind the rear-end, you can't miss it.) - if the boot gets torn, as mine is, crap gets in there and seizes the cable - sort of forces the brakes to stay locked in place. You can check that...spraying brake cleaner into the cable, that'll loosen it up, then just patch the boot.

I need to do that, but we just had a baby, and the 60 is LOW on the list of things to do...good thing it just keeps going.
 
I had this problem every other week when I lived in Missouri were it is wet and they use salt in the winter. I ended up removing the whole piece from the brake backing, removed the lever arm and filed a larger opening for the lever to swing through. Then just frequent lube and I solves my problem.
devo
 
Another excellent application for anti-seize. The aluminum pivot block does nothing to help matters here, creating a wonderful environment for dissimilar metal corrosion.

Good luck!

-Steve
 
Well both sides' levers were froze up in the cast aluminum brackets. After some heating and serious pounding I was able to convince the pivot pins to come out. I then POUNDED the levers out of the castings. I was going to grind the levers down thinner but noticed that inside the casting was pressed a thin steel bushing. Used a chissel and removed the steel inserts. Reassembled and works great. Without the steel insert I can't see that this will bind up again.
 
Reviving a sincerely old thread here, but it's on topic for me. My parking brake won't engage at all, and appears to be stuck in the "disengaged" position, which at least allows the truck to drive. Am I focusing on getting the area where the boot is to move?

cheers
 
Reviving a sincerely old thread here, but it's on topic for me. My parking brake won't engage at all, and appears to be stuck in the "disengaged" position, which at least allows the truck to drive. Am I focusing on getting the area where the boot is to move?

cheers

Most often the bell crank is seized in the aluminum pivot bracket under the boot. You can disassemble (if possible) by removing the clip and pin under the boot. Clean, file, and anti-seize it thoroughly.

Or replace parts as needed:




 
It’s a good answer. Seems weird but I filled that rubber boot over the
bell crank arm with just good oldfashioned grease. I packed it in there.
Its not made it inside yet, and it’s been a couple of years.
 

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