81 Distributor
When they redesigned the distributor to the large cap electronic ignition they also clearenced the pushrod cover to clear it. If you use the large bodied distributor you need the matching cover or a ball peen hammer to clearence the cover you own. I have a '79 distrubitor/pickup/coil/ignitor waiting to go in my FJ40 once I can confirm I will no longer need smog testing (30 year exemption in CA). Doing this project is high on my list, so I may do it anyway and see if it will still pass smog. Here is the email I exchanged with Jim C. last year about this:
Here is my current question. I bought a '79 distributor, coil and ignitor off the internet for $10. The distributor is pretty gunked up but has the pick up present. If I sent the distributor, coil and ignitor can you test them out before I proceed with a full rebuild? If the coil and ignitor are bad, then the whole process gets expensive! Otherwise, can you rebuild the distributor? I want to run the full electronic ignition on my 1976 FJ-40 (California Version). Do you see any problems with this idea? Thanks, and by the way, I'm not interested in non-OEM ignition options. Please let me know your charges for service, and shipping instructions.
Andrew,
You are on the right track by upgrading to the NipponDenso waterproof electronic ignition. The '79 distributor is a double vacuum advance unit, which is very handy because it gives you the option of 2 different vacuum advance curves, depending on which canister receives vacum. This is not the same as a '76 CA spec truck which has a single vac retard canister. I have the machine to test the distributor, pickup and ignitor. The parts that are expensive and need tested are the pickup, ignitor and vacuum advance canister.
Here's the standard info on my performance distributor rebuilds:
I can rebuild & recurve your distributor for better performance. The cost for the service is $100 plus any major parts that need replaced. Due to the age of our vehicles, the distributors may have mechanical problems, like frozen advance mechanisms or leaking vacuum advancers. The typical USA Cruiser distributor has too much advance, too soon, resulting in pinging under load if the EGR system is inoperative. To combat this the advance curve needs to be slowed down and limited to less total advance.
The typical rebuild consists of:
-Disassemble and inspect for wear
-Make estimate for any additional parts that may be needed
-Clean in chemical tank
-Modify advance curve & reassemble
-Test spin in Sun distributor analyzer
-Return shipping via UPS or USPS Priority service
For inspection and estimate, ship your distributor to:
TLC Performance
889 Layne Dr. NE
Lancaster, OH 43130-7982
Thank you,
Jim Chenoweth
TLC Performance
740-862-2604
Lancaster, OH, USA
TLCA#1914
arking brake Cable Retainer
