georgebj60
SILVER Star
How about ye old HJ60's? Surely it would a more simple affair than the FJ60/62's. I could help with pics and whatever else you need.
FJ60 Burnt Fusible Link Fuse replacement / Rewire (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ60binh
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I would love photos from an HJ60! PM me when you get some free time.
You have a picture of the box interior?
Thx
I'll (finally) have my cruiser back after the transmission debacle this week. I'd be glad to let you poke around my rig!
She's roadworthy? That's great news man. I'm in crunch time for SAS prep so it's about 50/50 I can make it to Golden to check out your truck before we leave on 7/28. If not, then I can head out there some time after we get back on 8/7.
Pending the glorious emissions test, yes! brand new H55, w/ overdrive gears in the rebuilt transfer case are in, along w/ a new Dobinsons IMS suspension as well as a driveline rebuild. So stoked to actually get to drive the damn thing.
That's a lot of work. Hope she rides like a dream.
FYI if you're ever in need of driveshaft work, Bill's Englewood Driveshaft is a fantastic spot. They can custom make stuff too. Their specialties are vintage off-road-built trucks and high power drag cars. The driveshafts they have in there for the drag cars are insane looking, some are like 6" around. It's a mom and pop place so they measure your vehicle on site and can customize stuff any way you want.
FYI if you're ever in need of driveshaft work, Bill's Englewood Driveshaft is a fantastic spot. They can custom make stuff too. Their specialties are vintage off-road-built trucks and high power drag cars. The driveshafts they have in there for the drag cars are insane looking, some are like 6" around. It's a mom and pop place so they measure your vehicle on site and can customize stuff any way you want.
It should be glorious! My first trip back down I70 from the rust/paint shop was...terrifying to say the least, so floaty and vague. I'm not sure if it was just that I was used to it before, or if everything sat unused too much in the 18 mos. it was in body/paint, but either way it was time to bite the (pricey) bullet and just start from scratch. Very excited for the upgrade in drivability and capability.
Looks like I need to build a one-off version of this for my LS swap.
Cool to see some of you guys local to me in Colorado!
Cool to see some of you guys local to me in Colorado!
Denver here. Happy to help figure it out for an LS Swap - might be a good future product for me to offer.
I’ll buy one, too.
If I'm doing an LS swap fusible link replacement kit, I'd need some data on what engine wiring harness folks are using as well as what airboxes are being used and where they're located. Since we're dealing with an engine swap, I know it's done differently by different folks. I can't make a kit for every single flavor of LS swap so I'd need to figure out what *most* people are doing and tailor the kit to that.
So @Dubs2017 & @howie2092 what are you using for air boxes and engine harnesses?
My LS swap uses the engine harness from the donor vehicle (probably a 2002-ish Denali 6.0Ll/4L60E). No fusible link to the engine harness, near as I can tell. First thing I did was to redo the battery cables and grounds. Still working my way through the rest of the harness. 145A alternator goes to the starter then to the battery with 4ga. There may be a fusible link in the wire between the alt and starter, I haven't dug into it and I assumed it was a half-assed wire splice with lots of tape - but it may be the Denali fusible link.
The original Toyota fusible link is attached to the inner fender with hose clamps. It plugs into the Toyota harness as usual. No air box, just an open element filter hanging out near the battery.
It's a project. it needs a lot of work. Nobody is more surprised than me that it didn't burn to the ground before I bought it, with leaky fuel lines and janky wiring everywhere.
The original Toyota fusible link is attached to the inner fender with hose clamps. It plugs into the Toyota harness as usual. No air box, just an open element filter hanging out near the battery.
It's a project. it needs a lot of work. Nobody is more surprised than me that it didn't burn to the ground before I bought it, with leaky fuel lines and janky wiring everywhere.
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@howie2092 I chuckled at the last bit - sometimes these things are such trainwreck, yet they still keep rolling.
I understand your setup and for people doing the swap your way, the stock 60 kit would probably work right out of the box. I don’t know what you’ll find in that wrapped up lump of wire between the alternator and starter. In any case, fusing the charge wire to you specific alternator would require disassembling the Denali harness and rewiring it, so that’s probably off the table.
I understand your setup and for people doing the swap your way, the stock 60 kit would probably work right out of the box. I don’t know what you’ll find in that wrapped up lump of wire between the alternator and starter. In any case, fusing the charge wire to you specific alternator would require disassembling the Denali harness and rewiring it, so that’s probably off the table.
Rewiring the Denali harness is very much on the table. Will get it done eventually, and I agree that your stock 60 kit would the way to go.
Once I undo whatever the PO did, I will get your kit installed and finally have some peace of mind.
I can’t speak for everyone, but it seems that the fusible links typically remain as is after most motor swaps. For example on my swap I am using a stand alone psi harness to control the V8, and have most of my 62 fusible links still connected to the battery for all of the Land Cruiser functions like lights, heater fan, etc. I eliminated the EFI fusible link on mine since that entire section of wiring was removed. Airbox is stock. Thinking might not need to change anything at all with your setup, as it turns out.
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Yeah, I don't see why an engine swap would be relevant to the fusible links since the body wiring is pretty much completely sperate aside from grabbing + for Speedhut gauges, Cruise module, etc.. We never mess with them unless they were hacked up
It's mostly logistics regarding airbox/battery/etc changes. The kit's bracket fits a 60 for example, but not a 62. If somebody were to do an LS swap and wanted the 3F/E airbox then the current 60 kit would not work. Some people even do the 3F/E airbox because it makes snorkel installation easier. Additionally, I think there may be some electrical differences with a bigger alternator or EFI relays, etc.
