FJ60 1995 moderated oil leak

[skhochay]

I have a rebuild my motor , new main seal installed , but I am noticing moderated oil leak on the back of the motor , I can't figure out from where but my wheel pulley cover under the car is wet, if there a chance that valve cover can be cracked ? cuz I changed the gasket OEM , but valve cover made of some type aluminium or alloy! if there anything else on the back on the motor that can leak besides main seal and valve cover?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

detailed photos here in the tech thread would help pin-point the leak source ?


you have a WAND camera flex head SST tool type thing ...

 

[YooperCruiser]

Oil pan can be another source

 

[skhochay]

Oil pan can be another source

not oil pan

 

[OSS]

It’s really easy to pinch the valve cover gasket when lowering the valve cover down on to the head IF the gasket drops out of the groove of the cover.

Remove the valve cover and inspect the gasket. See if it got pinched.
If the gasket did drop out and get mangled, replace it with a new one but be sure to glue it into the cover groove with a little RTV or FIPG.
Place a little sealant in groove, insert gasket, place the whole thing gasket side down on a perfectly flat surface with a weight on top of the cover to sit like that undisturbed until the sealant cures.

 

[Godwin]

It’s really easy to pinch the valve cover gasket when lowering the valve cover down on to the head IF the gasket drops out of the groove of the cover.

Remove the valve cover and inspect the gasket. See if it got pinched.
If the gasket did drop out and get mangled, replace it with a new one but be sure to glue it into the cover groove with a little RTV or FIPG.
Place a little sealant in groove, insert gasket, place the whole thing gasket side down on a perfectly flat surface with a weight on top of the cover to sit like that undisturbed until the sealant cures.

To the OP, if you are lucky this will be the oil leak. Other possibilities are the rear main seal plus a plug that is on the upper right side of rear of the block. To properly diagnose either of these you will need to drop the transmission and pull the clutch and flywheel, this will give you access to the RMS. For the plug you'll have to also remove the bellhousing.

 

[skhochay]

It’s really easy to pinch the valve cover gasket when lowering the valve cover down on to the head IF the gasket drops out of the groove of the cover.

Remove the valve cover and inspect the gasket. See if it got pinched.
If the gasket did drop out and get mangled, replace it with a new one but be sure to glue it into the cover groove with a little RTV or FIPG.
Place a little sealant in groove, insert gasket, place the whole thing gasket side down on a perfectly flat surface with a weight on top of the cover to sit like that undisturbed until the sealant cures.

did 4 times make sere is not pinch, use OEM + RTV like you said

 

[skhochay]

To the OP, if you are lucky this will be the oil leak. Other possibilities are the rear main seal plus a plug that is on the upper right side of rear of the block. To properly diagnose either of these you will need to drop the transmission and pull the clutch and flywheel, this will give you access to the RMS. For the plug you'll have to also remove the bellhousing.

dude that what I do not want to to just did it the main sela is 100% new, that plug you are talking about the block , I can fee it when I stick my hand and feel it , seels OK I have a feeling that main seal , but why I installed new OEM

 

[skhochay]

can we all be sure is not cracked valve cover, I do not think it is possible , but ....

 

[skhochay]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

peter ,

- lets back up a step and confirm and verify the oil type please , this is mission critical step by step .......... focus points not to over look ..

- wipe a clean rag or rubber glove fingers on the bottom of the tin fly wheel shield ........

- take note of the wet drippings ODOR ....its smell ?

- if you smell like rotten onions or a super foul stench its Transmission Gear oil


- if it smells like well not very pungent , its motor oil from crank case


- now pull your 2F engine oil dip stick and compare the physical odors of the dip stick confirmed engine oil to what is on the very very bottom splash shield under the fly wheel

- report back if it smells exactly same or much much different


- i know this sounds like a unique approach , but you have a unique oil seepage ?


- we need to confirm and verify it's NOT your transmission out put shaft seal leaking , and simply getting SLUNK and FLIPPED up like a giant splash wheel thing ?


- this front trans seal concept leak i outline can happen ,

i see all sorts new parts like oil pan , but i never assume or speculate , focus on the tech at hand

- BTW , you tech video was AWSOME and will help here greatly ......



matt

 

[skhochay]

I have new 5 speed trany filled witj Redline GL4 it red and different, it is engine oil for sure , I just hate to rip the bell housing apart to see there it leaking sucker crack ion the head , not possible or posible.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I have new 5 speed trany filled witj Redline GL4 it red and different, it is engine oil for sure , I just hate to rip the bell housing apart to see there it leaking sucker crack ion the head , not possible or posible.

did u use BLACK FIPG 00295-00103 on ALL / both sides of / top and bottom of the new oil pan gasket especially the front and rear horse shoe parts ?

 

[skhochay]

did u use BLACK FIPG 00295-00103 on ALL / both sides of / top and bottom of the new oil pan gasket especially the front and rear horse shoe parts ?

I just fill the the top grove , the bottom is flat flush

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I just fill the the top grove , the bottom is flat flush

here is what i do know :

- i always kote both sides of any oil pan or side cover gaskets with black FIPG , and kote both metal surfaces , you know a moderate skim kote with a rubber glove and finger


- NEVER a oil leak at these areas , however i fear falure so i over engineer as always , this being said

the TAN FJ60 2F FSM

shows this :

to be klear here this is meant on BOTH sides of the cork gasket , did you do exactly this or no ?


if not , then we have a CLUE now maybe ?

oh , fyi the GEAR COVER =OIL PAN in JAP KANKI ...........

 

[g-man]

Probably the rear main seal. Pull the bottom dust cover off the fly wheel housing and look up there. MANY, MANY if not all 2f fj60's develop a rear main seal leak. If so, there will be oil up inside the fly wheel housing. But it will still be hard to determine if it's the back of the oil pan or the engine's rear main seal. But likely is the rear main seal...also known as the RMS. As mentioned above there is a lot of work to get at it...including removing the transmission and transfer case and clutch.

This is a lot of work so if it's not leaking bad, then live with it and check your oil regularly.

 

[skhochay]

Probably the rear main seal. Pull the bottom dust cover off the fly wheel housing and look up there. MANY, MANY if not all 2f fj60's develop a rear main seal leak. If so, there will be oil up inside the fly wheel housing. But it will still be hard to determine if it's the back of the oil pan or the engine's rear main seal. But likely is the rear main seal...also known as the RMS. As mentioned above there is a lot of work to get at it...including removing the transmission and transfer case and clutch.

This is a lot of work so if it's not leaking bad, then live with it and check your oil regularly.

I think so too , but this is my second time I am replacing main seal each time I dropped the housing I do not see any leakage on the seal mor around the seal , but on the side of the flywheel all wet with fresh oil I am confuse where its coming from, I will dyed tha oil with infrared dust and look under the light

 

[skhochay]

here is what i do know :

- i always kote both sides of any oil pan or side cover gaskets with black FIPG , and kote both metal surfaces , you know a moderate skim kote with a rubber glove and finger


- NEVER a oil leak at these areas , however i fear falure so i over engineer as always , this being said

the TAN FJ60 2F FSM

shows this :

to be klear here this is meant on BOTH sides of the cork gasket , did you do exactly this or no ?


if not , then we have a CLUE now maybe ?

oh , fyi the GEAR COVER =OIL PAN in JAP KANKI ...........


View attachment 2997006

oil pan I did as you the book (you) said

 

[ToyotaMatt]

then we have ONLY 1 alternative peter , with a guaranteed concrete spot on diagnosis here ..........ready

here we go .,,,


- go to home depot buy purple power degrease gallon and 2 spray bottles

- also , the most LUMENS and compact par 6 BLACK / UV light bulb u can possinly affford or find ?

- a drop light housing w/ cage , a trouble lamp for it if u don't have , or a stand alone Black / UV flash light type thing , and no skinny pencil one like a full size max lumens type please

- next up , find a specialty auto parts store who selld UV DYE packs for ENGINE oil , buy 3 small packs , there like ketchup size


- we need a HOT water garden hose tap ? utility sink or washer machine bib in mud room , must be a FULL ON HOT source no luke warm here ..


- nice garden hose and most important a quality spray nozzle w/ a jet feature


- first warm up engine only a TAD , NOT full operation temp to be clear ,

- turn off fj60

- FULL strength spray purple power all over any suspect rear engine areas from BOTTOM first , then from top to be clear or u will get in your eys and be hurtin hard

- let sit for say 10-14 minutes only

- get hose bled super hot water

- fully de greaser off / rinse all traces of engine oil off 100% ! , if your not sure here , do a 2nd round of above to be certain

- next up blow dart compressed air dry all the affected area of rear of engine dry dry as a bone ..........

-
- this is crucial step !


- now the PHUN part ...........



- install all 3 UV OIL DYE packets to a confirmed full 8.5qts crank case of oil ,


- why 3 u ask ?


-n because the uv oil dye is for a small 4cy engine 3-4 qts only , we need full strength results H55F FAST !


- now drive your truck normally maybe a tad hard to make it drip oil like all your above well documented tech outlines //////////



- at the First sines of a seap drip or leak , stop and get back to shop ,

- plug in the MAX lumens UV black light , preferibally in shop with all shop lights OUT dark !

or

at night time . / dusk .....


- your mystery leak will revile itself if you follow the INDIGLOW trail to the source


- oh i forgot , buy a professional 3 pc mirrors on a telescope stick kit from advance or crap-boys , the tools asile will have lisle or the pre brands

- u WILL need these i guarantee it

u will see this : or the like may be lumenesant yellow or day glow green u know like a PHISH concert on fall tour ........

 

[ToyotaMatt]

this short tech video peter , sorta best relates to your symptoms


my prescribed steps by steps are exactly how i smoke out pesky oil leaks like u have going on , i have a 100% Success arte using this T-TEN Methods i learned in tech training years ago

- oh i never wore UV rated safety glasses , but u should , i will now that i know ?





i hope you find it

matt