FJ55 Project Rusty Gold

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Joined
Oct 12, 2010
Threads
8
Messages
154
Location
North Idaho
First time starting a thread so bear with me.
I am start this project with a 1971 FJ55 Landcruiser with a F motor with aftermarket headers and a GM 2 Jet carb???? the rest of the FJ55 is stock to my knowledge.

Problems that I have are some rust, water is leaking form some where i have sealed the front window with some silicone just as a way to stop the water. The clutch is gone to nothing, but it still drives:confused:. The age is starting to show with a few wrinkles and blemishes (dents, scratches).

Pros. Spare rims and tires, roof rack, new tires, it runs and drives and the rear window works.
DSC_1687l.webp
 
plans

Well the plans are not much just make it DD but i am going to do some custom offroad stuff like rocksliders and bumpers when I get my new welder running. the Bumpers are in the future when my welding is better so i can make out of aluminum.:wrench:
 
More work

Worked on the front bumper today pulled it out more so it is more inline with the bumper. Then jacked up the FJ55, maybe the clutch is not bad but it is just the brakes grabbing, this was i thought, and what i found was the brakes locked.

Is there any easy way of adjusting the rear drum brakes, reason is the rear drums are stuck.

Going to start on the rust by this weekend.
 
the best year

Your 55 looks awesome.I also have a '71,so lets just say that they are the best year.Too bad somebody went crazy with the spray paint over what looks to be original paint.Release the drum brakes by loosening the wheel cylinders.You can do this with the wheel on,from behind,but since you should probably take a look at the brakes,pull the wheel and check everything out.Im sure you have some stuck/bad wheel cylinders somewhere.Happy Trails
 
brake

I lucked out the brakes are new so i assume that the PO put them in the break in setting, and that is the original paint on the toyota the truck was in New Mexico reasoning behind this is the front window was made in New Mexico and the toyota is form Cali also all the red dirt i cleaned out. So Fix the brake issue pretty easily. But now i need to bleed the brakes. Next is to fix all the rust on the FJ55, so operation Rusto Stopo is a go!!!!!:bounce2:
 
71 is the best year!

I have a 71 also. They are definately the best year! The most important thing to remember as you begin this journey (makin her nice and relaible) is that your never alone. I'm kinda new to here also but I have to say there are always folks here to help, to answer questions, give you ideas, help you find parts or solutions. They even give you encouragement on those days where your gonna ask yourself "What the #%^&$ am I crazy???" No better group of guys anywhere. Welcome aboard and enjoy the journey. :cheers:
 
Parking Brake

^^^ Thanks for the encouragement.

My parking brake does not hold at all and their is oil on the drum and i know of the leaking problem so how do i take the drum off, I read in my repair manual that i would have to drain the fluids in the transfer case ( which might be a good thing) so if anyone can give me any info at all i would be grateful for any help
Thanks in advance.
 
Drain T case oil,Remove driveshaft,T case output shaft nut,drum,PB cable,backing plate,and then the output seal.replace the seal with a Marlin,put back together,good to go.I think.:wrench: really diggin the 55,and it sounds like you are really gettin after it.
 
SOA

Got some sheet metal for the toyota for free but is is 22 GA, I am not a metal man so would this work for a floor patch, i also have to replace most of the body mounts and wondering what GA to use? The other question i had is for DD would a SOA be to top heavy and can i do the swap myself?
Thanks in advance
 
Got some sheet metal for the toyota for free but is is 22 GA, I am not a metal man so would this work for a floor patch, i also have to replace most of the body mounts and wondering what GA to use? The other question i had is for DD would a SOA be to top heavy and can i do the swap myself?
Thanks in advance

I'm not sure how stable 22 gauge would be for the floor, as that is really thin. I think factory is 16 gauge (maybe 18) and that has ribs in it too.
 
The Floor

Here are the pic of the floor, the rust is also on the rear body mounts. I am going to get some 14 ga for the body mounts just for a little over kill. Also the whole leaning of the FJ 55 I drive a jeep so it might not be bad at all. Also how much would it cost to buy a SOA kit and do i have to flip it???? I do not think my 140 lincoln will weld on a axle very well.
rusty floor.webp
rusty floor2.webp
rusty floor3.webp
 
Welcome to the farm my friend. Keep the dream going. It's a love hate thing sometimes, but the love is there. Good luck and post pics to motivate the rest of us.:popcorn:
 
I drive a jeep Wangler But it has failed me today the starter went out while my dad had it so that was a blow to the head:bang:, this is was happens when you let someone drive your 4x4.:bang::bang:
 
rock sliders

Just looking for so opinions on this, should i weld in a 2x4" tube to the body for clearance or should i patch all the rust holes and make a tube rock slider. I am leaning to weld the 2x4" tube to the body just for the less work, But is that going to be a lot of weight, i do not want to add to much weight for the already tired engine. An engine swap is out of the budget for this year.
 
The toyota will one day be an expedition rig so i have no clue what will happen but i like not to have to use the sliders but just for a step also to get rid of the rust in the rockers
 
2"x4"x3/16" steel tubing like I used for my rockers is only 6.8lbs/ft

So if you look at replacing 5' per side you are adding 68lbs. Minus whatever you cut off, probably 10-15lbs.

So going to a thick "heavy" tube you are only gaining ~50-55lbs. Not a huge difference.

This doesn't include the steps coming off the rocker, which at 3.7lbs a foot will add another 40ish pounds.

Ryan


Just looking for so opinions on this, should i weld in a 2x4" tube to the body for clearance or should i patch all the rust holes and make a tube rock slider. I am leaning to weld the 2x4" tube to the body just for the less work, But is that going to be a lot of weight, i do not want to add to much weight for the already tired engine. An engine swap is out of the budget for this year.
 
Last edited:
2"x4"x3/16" steel tubing like I used for my rockers is only 6.8lbs/ft

So if you look at replacing 5' per side you are adding 68lbs. Minus whatever you cut off, probably 10-15lbs.

So going to a thick "heavy" tube you are only gaining ~50-55lbs. Not a huge difference.

This doesn't include the steps like coming off the rocker, which at 3.7lbs a foot will add another 40ish pounds.

Ryan

Isn't that only like 34lbs per side if it's 5' per side?
EDIT: Ooooohhh nevermind. I read that wrong. lol
 
More work

More work on Fj55 moved it into the garage to get out of the snow and cold. Today it did not get over 10 degrees all day:frown:. The front bumper is fighting me to come off, I am going to chop it to get rid of the wrinkles in the bumper and to straighten the bumper more. Next is to get some stargon gas for the welder but do not know what size of cylinder to get and prices???
 
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