FJ55 Project Rusty Gold

[1973Guppie]

as far as the welds go they look good, looks like penetration is fine as there is bluing evident around the weld. Only thing I would mention is that working with sheetmetal you really should just be placing a series of spot welds, not a constant bead like you have in the pic above. If you simply use tack welds and work back and forth moving from side to side until the length is all welded. The tack welds will help keep the heat down and keep the metal from distorting.

Noah

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Got the drivers side front body mount done
Now for the rear drivers side mount to do. With Ironman training it is becoming harder and harder to work on the pig. Drivers side door now works and all the doors shut with little to no effort which is a real plus.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Finished with all the body mounts

Got all the body mounts done. Now to start working on all the drivetrain. I am going to do a compression test on the engine and if it is good I am wondering what to do if the engine is bad, do I rebuild or go down the custom road and swap in a different engine?
What do you guys Think of a 6.2l Diesel engine? What are some of the options that will swap into a pig that is not as common as a 350 but still has aftermarket parts?
Where is a good place to find parts for the axels if I need parts? Also can the stock axles handle 33 inch tall tires?

Sorry for all the Question?
Ken

 

[Pighead]

Let's not worry about engine swaps quite yet, get your compression numbers first.
And change your manifold gasket, and fuel line, and change that metal fan for a plastic one.
What kind of axle parts? Knuckle rebuilds? bearings? call Kurt.
Stock course-spline axles will turn 33s behind an F engine just fine.

 

[bigsal]

Let's not worry about engine swaps quite yet, get your compression numbers first.
And change your manifold gasket, and fuel line, and change that metal fan for a plastic one.
What kind of axle parts? Knuckle rebuilds? bearings? call Kurt.
Stock course-spline axles will turn 33s behind an F engine just fine.

Hey Pighead, why a plastic fan?

 

[Pighead]

Hey Pighead, why a plastic fan?

It's well-known that the stock 4 blade metal fans develop cracks around the rivets, which then lead to fan blades flying off at high speed at the most inopportune times. There's a famous picture somewhere on 'Mud of a fan blade stuck halfway through the hood of a 40...

 

[Brewtus]

It's well-known that the stock 4 blade metal fans develop cracks around the rivets, which then lead to fan blades flying off at high speed at the most inopportune times. There's a famous picture somewhere on 'Mud of a fan blade stuck halfway through the hood of a 40...

Yipe! Not good.

Any particular plastic fan? Generic? Both my pigs still have the stock steel one in place, and the blue '70 model has been forced into daily driver duties. I would REALLY like to avoid the exploding fan syndrome!

 

[Pighead]

It's a Toyota plastic fan, bolts right on. I know Mark A. had a good price on them not too long ago...

 

[bigsal]

Dang... Thanks for sharing that one. I'll look at mine and consider that.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

More pics of the progress
Going to pull the engine the clutch is out so might as well pull.
First pic is showing the room that i have to work in and the drive way is not an option with a 10 deg. slop covered in the snow.
Next is the Junk that can out of the hood I am 6'2"
Last is of the engine. And the Fire extinguisher got two for the price of one and has the mounts for inside the rig.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Pulled the motor out to get to the clutch and I had free help. But the engine does not work with the engine stand that I am using.
So any ideas on what to do now?

 

[bobm]

Rusty, can u build a plate or a bracket to put between the stand and the engine with mounting holes for both the engine and stand in the plate or bracket?

Thanks Bob

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Well, it all start to be a good day as I got the engine stand to work but that is where it all started to go wrong. Removed the valve cover and gold was found the top end has been rebuilt but then found the problem the engine was rebuilt by one of the PO and on of the cylinders is bad the wall is destroyed. Then my sisters car quit working so today has been a bad day with the cars.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

more pics

This is my problem and the piston is dirty from the leak and part of the deconstruction debris (gasket), also some carbon build up. But all the others look new. There isn't even a lip at the top of the cylinders.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Sorry for the wait
Did so more work on the fenders today more and more bondo got to love the junk.
So the PO used a torch to weld in the patch.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Good Machine Shop

Is there any good machine shops near North Idaho?

 

[scottryana]

Where in North Idaho? Sandpoint, Bonners Ferry, Clark Fork, Coeur D Alene?

Is there any good machine shops near North Idaho?

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Sorry my brain must have been off CDA

 

[xtiaan2000]

body mounts

Got all the body mounts done. ]

Just about to do my body mounts- like tomorrow. Any chance to get a pic of what you did?

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Got all the body mounts done. ]

Just about to do my body mounts- like tomorrow. Any chance to get a pic of what you did?

What do you need to see? On the third page is pics of the front mounts the rear mounts are C cannel shaped with the angles of the access hole ( I need to replace that to) and the back then i was going to tie in the 2x4 tube into the mounts to spread the load over the body. This was where all the rust was on the pig was the body mounts so I am still fixing all the little sheets of metal that surround the rear mounts. The front mounts are 14 ga. the rear is thick just had those chunks laying around. By fixing the body mounts my doors close and open the right way and do not open and drop down an inch or so. I hope this help you out some.