FJ40 Seat Mods to Gain Leg Room

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As did I, but as I mentioned, this raising lifted the tuffy enough to cause painful interference with my elbow. The question was did you reverse the seat frame part that sticks out so that it's on the outside edge? That seem like it should permit the tuffyback end to not have to be raised, I would think with the extra clearance.
Sorry, no, I did not reverse the seat frame. Raising the Tuffy didn't cause me any interference with any body parts.
 
Given that I have a 60/40 seat arrangement, and not bucket seats, I was hoping to be able to use the steel straps at least on the drivers seat to accomplish getting more leg room on that side, even two inches. Unforturnately, unless I'm not comprehending properly, I don't see a way to use straps to be able to move the front mount back a couple of inches and keep into play the stock braces that are mounted half way back and where the rear of the seat bottom attaches. I have enclosed a picture. It looks like from other provided pictures that other FJs used a different method for a rear mount , seemingly all the way back to the rear, which allows the strap method to be used. If you're wondering why the front mount leg on each side is resting on leather gloves, water had seeped through holes in the floorboard and firewall while the vehice was being test driven in Costa Rica. That CR rain water sat under the new saturated mats for weeks. I had to unbolt the legs in order to remove the floor
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mats to dry things our. Fortunately, no obvious rust. Regardless, I was not happy.
 
I just drilled new holes in the tracks 2” back. Drilled another couple holes in the side for the adjuster. Cost zero $$.
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I have the same seats.
 
I plan to do just exactly this. Maybe 1” though as I’d still like to be able to slide the seat far enough forward my son can drive (he’s 10 so s little shorter than I.

Bolt some 4x4 blocks to a set of of his tennis shoes. Problem solved. You’re welcome.
 
My seat is different in that it catches on only one side, the other side is free-wheeling. I am sending a picture. A question: With the driver seat positioned that far back, which is what I would need, do you find it cumbersome for your right arm with the bench seat offset so much from the single seat?

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Not at all. It actually gives me a place to put my right arm. I honestly don’t think about it.
The seat back has about an inch clearance from the fender well behind it. I don’t have a jump seat behind it.
 
I'm the same height and ended up doing both modifications to get more legroom. It helped tremendously in my 76. Used some steel straps to extend both the driver's and passengers seats and gained about an inch and a half more room for each.
Doesn't sound like lot but it definitely helps. Not sure I still have any pictures of the installation, it was a few years ago. Really wasn't hard to do, just a few nuts/bolts and 4 straps I bought at Lowes for around
$30 then cutting to fit, precise drilling and bolting back together. Easy weekend project.
Went with a smaller steering wheel when I installed power steering and have had no issues. Definitely don't miss that giant OEM wheel. Used a steering wheel from a hilux truck and the splines matched perfectly, I believe most any non airbag Toyota wheel would work. Not the best picture but you can see the smaller steering wheel here on the 76 steering column. Very easy to swap.

Edit - found this Pic of the passenger side, the straps bolt on to the stock seat bracket then holes are drilled further back and the seat is bolted in as far back as possible. Good luck!!!

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I'm 6'4" and haven't had any issues with the drivers seat of my '74 with stock bucket seats. However, on the passenger side there is very limited space between the front roll bar hoop and the front of the passenger seat. I don't have any great photos to show the difference in the offset, but these pictures of the rear bench folded forward should give you a general idea.
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The passenger seat is probably 3.5-4" further forward than the drivers seat. My concern would be that it would get harder to get in the back with it moved forward. Although, moving it back an inch or so would allow the passenger seat to fold flatter. Whatever I do would be a compromise. I suppose the best option would be to make it adjustable... but then it might be too high. I'll have to look at how much it would raise the passenger seat to use OEM hardware from a drivers seat.
 
I wish I had your seats. That's got to be the easiest solution possible: just back up the mounting holes and move the slide release assembly to new holes, and you're off to the races. No special hardware required. I had hope the other option (straps) would work for the drivers seat, but given the mounting confirguration on mine, where the "rear" seat brackets align with mating brackets on the slide and are bolted together horizontally rather than vertically. That mounting configuration throws a big monkey wrench into my quest for more leg room.
 
On a related topic. I have a bunch of holes of different sizes between the floor boards, fire wall, and maybe the rear floor area that all had an original intended purpose. I've measured the inside diameter and they vary in size: 1 1/8; 5/8; 3/16; 3/8' 3/4; 1.0; 7/32; 2.0, and there are a couple that are rectangles around 9/16 x 1 7/32. Some of the holes are occupied with cables or hoses, but many are just open holes. I was hoping to buy a grommet kit of some sort to plug the unused holes, but also hoped to find a way to somehow Magyver grommets that are populated with something going through them, and fill in the open space with a rewickered, trimmed appropriately sized grommet. I know you can order aftermarket grommets for some of the regular FJ holes, but I've got a bunch of odd sizes. Has anyone had luck finding the right grommet kit that would accomodate most of my need?
 
Many parts stores have numerous options of body plugs. I’ve used them to plug all sorts of 1/2” holes and others. Some have used plugs for electrical boxes from the hardware store.

If you can’t find a plug for a particular hole, I’d suggest using sheet metal with silicone to create a seal. Either use pop rivets Po secure it or put a piece of metal on either side and bolt the two pieces together.

The permanent solution would be to weld extra holes closed, but if they are not visible I’d plug them for now and wait to close them permanently till I’m doing bodywork in the area.
 
Ha! I have been looking to make the same mod. My knees have been killing me as I have been driving lately. I think this will help.
 
The sticking out part of your seat frame near the bottom of you fire extinguisher is on the insides of my seat frame. When I raise up the seat, I also have to raise the back end of my Tuffy, causing me to slam my elbow into the lid edge. Did you switch around your seat frame sides?
FWIW, I trimmed the bottom bracket for the tuffy so my seat "tab" could fit underneath it. Pic is pretrim, but that tab by the heater hoses just needed an inch cut and turned in so that the "tab" on the side would fit under.

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