Builds Fj40 re-rebuild! (1 Viewer)

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2 years and another kid later, I’m back at it. I’ve been doing a few things here and there, but I’m trying to get it driving and wheelable for this summer.

a few things I’ve done over the past two years.

I bought and rci fuel cell with some after mounts. I know the rci tanks are notoriously bad so I had a friend modify it for me. I first holesawed the center to put the fuel pump and pick up in the center rather than off to the side. Then I cut to large 1/4” x
9” slits into the top of the tank. I drilled four 1/2” holes on the bottom in line with the slits. I cut two pieces of 1/4” aluminum and dropped them into the slits. Tig welded the long slits and plug welder the bottom. The tank is much more rigid than before and should prevent any cracking or premature failure of the welds.

Also, pulled the entire steering system minus the pump. New lines with -6 fittings. I found a low profile fitting to fit under the front bib.

Picked up a used AGR box with variable ratio steering, had it rebuilt and tapped for assist eventually.

Pulled the column, put a new bearing in it, new steering wheel and painted it all.

The last steering shaft I built, I butt welded two shafts together... not exactly the safest. I still didn’t want to spend $300 on a borgeson shaft, so I got a slip shaft out of a Grand Cherokee from the junk yard, cut it up and sleeved it to the shaft from the gm tilt column. 4 plug welds and welded the ends up. Should be good. Also great that it is telescoping.


Lastly, I wrapped up the new quarter panels. Need to build a new rear tailgate panel still. They really cleaned up the overall look of it.

I’ve made some pretty big improvements to it in overall safety. As I’ve stated before, I originally built this with little to no knowledge about cars and made a lot of poor choices. So it feels good to be cleaning up and making it safer as well as improving the drive ability.


Big random photo dump. Hoping to consistently work on this a little more. Just have so much going on.

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For anyone interested here’s the install thread for the 4:1 gears.
 
No photos because it was sketchyAF but I wrestled the transmission in there tonight.

Here’s bogey. Got him when he was 3.5 and I was 20. Spent all of my 20s with him, some of the most monumental events in my life I’m sure. He will be missed, hung his collar on my rear view mirror in my 40. 🤘🏻

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It’s never easy making that choice After ter the pain has eased, I’ve always seen it as the right choice. Sorry you had to go through it.
Definitely tough, but I do agree, it was time.

Anyways back to land cruiser stuff. I had a friend cut me out of piece of 1/4” to build a cross member mount. Still need to transfer punch and drill it. But I sanded down the output cover and will mount it on top. Want to use a gm style mount to still allow for twist in the drivetrain.

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Definitely tough, but I do agree, it was time.

Anyways back to land cruiser stuff. I had a friend cut me out of piece of 1/4” to build a cross member mount. Still need to transfer punch and drill it. But I sanded down the output cover and will mount it on top. Want to use a gm style mount to still allow for twist in the drivetrain.

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What are you going to do about the gasket? I don't think that will work well with the thick cork gasket beneath it that normally sees light bolt torque. I am planning on building something similar this week and will most likely build a entirely new cover out of 1/4 plate and making a thin paper gasket that can take more bolt torque.
 
@cruisermatt

Thinking about using studs on the bottom three holes. Then I can bolt the output cover on at the appropriate torque and bolt the mount on top of that. Would also keep from twisting and breaking the sealing surface under any drivetrain stress.
 
I don't know man. Is this going to be your only crossmember or just a additional torque mount? I think you need to have the large surface area contact of the actual case surface for it to be effective.
 
I don't know man. Is this going to be your only crossmember or just a additional torque mount? I think you need to have the large surface area contact of the actual case surface for it to be effective.
A cross member isn’t really necessary in my application. I don’t have a doubler or an auto. My bell housing has mounts off the side. This mount isn’t going to bear any weight. Just offer additional support when necessary. I think I’ll try it with a paper gasket and see what happens.
 
Finally picking up some momentum here with summer approaching.

Wanted to box in the passenger side front frame and gusset it a little bit, I know it’s susceptible to twisting and cracking.

Also added some gussets to the front spring hangers.

Added a new winch, plate, and new mounts, I welded 1/2” bungs into the frame. Also added a grill hoop.

Finally made a choice on tail lights. Was on IG and saw @Arya Ebrahimi was using duolamp lenses and a custom 3d printed base, he was able to get me a set of bases for more than reasonable prices. I ordered two lights. Also ordered a dual intensity circuit so I could dedicate one section to braking and the other to running lights and blinker.

Made some custom floor mats out of 3/8” rubber gym flooring. Hoping it cuts down on some noise and heat some.

Last goals for wheeling season, box in the rear frame, add a cross member, swap rear springs, add anti wrap bar, build an all aluminum tailgate. Should be doable!

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