Builds Fj40 re-rebuild! (4 Viewers)

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In my crawler I run a spool

In the 60, I run a arb. The 40 does not see much street time. But I'll admit, the spool is much more predictable than an auto locker on the street. It just pushes in turns quite a bit.
 
I agree with all Mace said.

On solid surfaces - it's far easier to learn to drive correctly with a spool then it is with any locker (outside of arb which is effectively a spool when locked). Because it always understeers so loading/unloading by braking and acceleration you get into the good habit of turning harder at the initiation then decreasing your radius as you accelerate). The reason is when you're learning, you want something that will react the same way every time so that is one less thing you have to pay attention to when learning to do corners.

On vehicles that are more performance-oriented, I prefer lock-rites. Their downside is they rely on the strength of the carrier and, while they are pretty predictable, they are no always predictable.
 
It's been long time ago but you used to be able to get BudBuilt rears with what he called a Vegas cut ( Matt from vegas had the pattern). I used that cut when I moved my axle back about 4 inches I believe. I destroyed my Lockrite locker and switch to a Detroit and it worked a lot better and handle way nicer.
 
You mentioned outboarding the rear shocks. I looked at mine today, I think my rear tire moves a good 3 or 4 inches inward when the rear tire flexes upward. You may want to flex yours out first to see if their is enough clearance to get the mount and shock in there.

Good thought, they will be raked toward the rear of the wheel well, I'll have to check that out. Thanks.

It's been long time ago but you used to be able to get BudBuilt rears with what he called a Vegas cut ( Matt from vegas had the pattern). I used that cut when I moved my axle back about 4 inches I believe. I destroyed my Lockrite locker and switch to a Detroit and it worked a lot better and handle way nicer.

I'll have to call up bud built and see what they say. My rear axle is stretched closer to 8 or so inches though.
 
Well I was saving thelse pictures from friday to give one big update, but I didn't get a chance to work on it this weekend. Not a huge update, but packed new wheel bearings, installed new hub seals, semi rebuilt the calipers with new slides, clips etc, and gave them a fresh coat of paint. It absolutely will be finished by this Friday lol.

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Nice little trick I picked up.

Also, what do you guys torque your ring gear bolts to? 80ft/lbs and the threads pulled out on 1 bolt. Maybe just a fluke. The rest seemed ok to me

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run it
 
Small updates, been busy recently, hopefully this winter will offer some good hours in the garage!

I was planning on keeping the frame and bumper, but the more I looked at it, the more I hated how hacked together the whole mess was. Not to mention, the frame was severely pitted in the rear.

So, away it went!

Lastly a possible design for a tube bumper I'm thinking of building.

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I think I'm going to cut the frame further back, it's very pitted and I would do it anyways when I decide to go links.

I'll cut it just after the bump stop, then notch out the body cross member so I can run it close to the body and out of the way. I'll use 2" tube. Maybe something similar to this jeep.

Then I'll probably make 2 notches in the rear sill to bring a bumper out. Should turn out pretty clean.

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Depends on your end game.

lots of people wheel the crap out of their junk on leafs.. I do love a good set of links tho.
 
Am I wasting my time with leafs springs?
Sounds like u really want links. If u don't think it will burn you out project wise go for it. You could use bushing ends to save money if u need to and will probably still work fine. I would probably do bent lower links so u don't drag them as much on steps and such. Steel isn't as expensive right now so that's a good thing. I would put most emphasis on the right amount of anti squat for the steep climbs.
 

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