- Thread starter
- #41
Mace do you run an arb in the rear?
Builds Fj40 re-rebuild!
- Thread starter 74fj40
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In my crawler I run a spool
In the 60, I run a arb. The 40 does not see much street time. But I'll admit, the spool is much more predictable than an auto locker on the street. It just pushes in turns quite a bit.
In the 60, I run a arb. The 40 does not see much street time. But I'll admit, the spool is much more predictable than an auto locker on the street. It just pushes in turns quite a bit.
I agree with all Mace said.
On solid surfaces - it's far easier to learn to drive correctly with a spool then it is with any locker (outside of arb which is effectively a spool when locked). Because it always understeers so loading/unloading by braking and acceleration you get into the good habit of turning harder at the initiation then decreasing your radius as you accelerate). The reason is when you're learning, you want something that will react the same way every time so that is one less thing you have to pay attention to when learning to do corners.
On vehicles that are more performance-oriented, I prefer lock-rites. Their downside is they rely on the strength of the carrier and, while they are pretty predictable, they are no always predictable.
On solid surfaces - it's far easier to learn to drive correctly with a spool then it is with any locker (outside of arb which is effectively a spool when locked). Because it always understeers so loading/unloading by braking and acceleration you get into the good habit of turning harder at the initiation then decreasing your radius as you accelerate). The reason is when you're learning, you want something that will react the same way every time so that is one less thing you have to pay attention to when learning to do corners.
On vehicles that are more performance-oriented, I prefer lock-rites. Their downside is they rely on the strength of the carrier and, while they are pretty predictable, they are no always predictable.
You mentioned outboarding the rear shocks. I looked at mine today, I think my rear tire moves a good 3 or 4 inches inward when the rear tire flexes upward. You may want to flex yours out first to see if their is enough clearance to get the mount and shock in there.
It's been long time ago but you used to be able to get BudBuilt rears with what he called a Vegas cut ( Matt from vegas had the pattern). I used that cut when I moved my axle back about 4 inches I believe. I destroyed my Lockrite locker and switch to a Detroit and it worked a lot better and handle way nicer.
- Thread starter
- #46
Good thought, they will be raked toward the rear of the wheel well, I'll have to check that out. Thanks.
I'll have to call up bud built and see what they say. My rear axle is stretched closer to 8 or so inches though.
- Thread starter
- #47
Well I was saving thelse pictures from friday to give one big update, but I didn't get a chance to work on it this weekend. Not a huge update, but packed new wheel bearings, installed new hub seals, semi rebuilt the calipers with new slides, clips etc, and gave them a fresh coat of paint. It absolutely will be finished by this Friday lol.
- Thread starter
- #48
Nice little trick I picked up.
Also, what do you guys torque your ring gear bolts to? 80ft/lbs and the threads pulled out on 1 bolt. Maybe just a fluke. The rest seemed ok to me
Also, what do you guys torque your ring gear bolts to? 80ft/lbs and the threads pulled out on 1 bolt. Maybe just a fluke. The rest seemed ok to me
- Thread starter
- #49
Progress! Thoughts?
Ive never used a torque wrench on them, I just crank em with a impact lol
- Thread starter
- #52
Ive never used a torque wrench on them, I just crank em with a impact lol
Me either. I never used to locktite them either.
Loctite is a good idea
- Thread starter
- #54
Axle is full assembled!
This weekend I may bring it home. I picked up some bushings so I could rebuild my rear shackle hangers. I didn't like the shackle angle when they were mounted to the face of the bumper, so I'll mount them to the bottom of the bumper.
Real updates to follow!
This weekend I may bring it home. I picked up some bushings so I could rebuild my rear shackle hangers. I didn't like the shackle angle when they were mounted to the face of the bumper, so I'll mount them to the bottom of the bumper.
Real updates to follow!
Update???
- Thread starter
- #56
Small updates, been busy recently, hopefully this winter will offer some good hours in the garage!
I was planning on keeping the frame and bumper, but the more I looked at it, the more I hated how hacked together the whole mess was. Not to mention, the frame was severely pitted in the rear.
So, away it went!
Lastly a possible design for a tube bumper I'm thinking of building.
I was planning on keeping the frame and bumper, but the more I looked at it, the more I hated how hacked together the whole mess was. Not to mention, the frame was severely pitted in the rear.
So, away it went!
Lastly a possible design for a tube bumper I'm thinking of building.
- Thread starter
- #57
I think I'm going to cut the frame further back, it's very pitted and I would do it anyways when I decide to go links.
I'll cut it just after the bump stop, then notch out the body cross member so I can run it close to the body and out of the way. I'll use 2" tube. Maybe something similar to this jeep.
Then I'll probably make 2 notches in the rear sill to bring a bumper out. Should turn out pretty clean.
I'll cut it just after the bump stop, then notch out the body cross member so I can run it close to the body and out of the way. I'll use 2" tube. Maybe something similar to this jeep.
Then I'll probably make 2 notches in the rear sill to bring a bumper out. Should turn out pretty clean.
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- Thread starter
- #58
Am I wasting my time with leafs springs?
Sounds like u really want links. If u don't think it will burn you out project wise go for it. You could use bushing ends to save money if u need to and will probably still work fine. I would probably do bent lower links so u don't drag them as much on steps and such. Steel isn't as expensive right now so that's a good thing. I would put most emphasis on the right amount of anti squat for the steep climbs.
