FJ40 Power Steering Conversion

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May 14, 2008
Austin, TX
What is everyone's opinion on the best power steering conversion?

I not trying to take the cheap route, but if I'm going to spend the money, I would like the best setup.
I have Saginaw and it has been on my rig for years with no problems at all. Still steers with one finger running 33x12.5x15s.
Saginaw gives you more options. From stock rebuilds at the local parts store to tricked out modifieds
from companies like AGR or PSC. Saginaw boxes come in at least three ratios from 2 turns to 3.5 lock to
lock ( roughly). They came in two bore sizes. Most people use the 3" that was common on mid size chevy
car. There was also a heavy duty 3.5" which came on early 70's Caddy Coupe DeVille's and other highway
boats. With that box 38's are a breeze.
What size tires?

Minitruck is a power assist which works reasonably well for moderate wheeling up to 33s.
60 is a step up.
Saginaw (standard) requires cutting through the frame cross member and reinforcing it.
After 20 years, I've decided on Scout II Saginaw. More straightforward like a 60 conversion. And I've been told will turn 37s with one finger on dry pavement...full power... overkill for my 33s... I'll report back in ten years once I'm done.:D
My vote is for the FJ60 setup.

Mine is installed but not tested yet but I choosed it after doing a pile of research. Two main reason for going this way where, I didn't have to cut the frame and there's nothing in the way of mounting my 8274 winch.
I'm running the 60 box with saginaw pump and its been great so far and mine is locked and on 35s
Im running 32x12.50 with a 60 box with a saginaw pump. Call Georg at Valley Hybrid, has all the parts and brackets and good customer service. Orange45 on mud.
I'm running a mini truck Ps on 10. 31s, and it' pretty clear I'm pushing the box near it upper end. OTOH, I'm a one bannana, and i did it myself, with plenty of MUD help
I vote for the FJ-60. It's Toyota, can be done with mixing / matching Toyota Parts (mostly) and doesn't requrie cutting up the frame. The Box is out of the way.

If you get the IPOR Kit, you might want to either sleeve or weld a big scab plate onto the frame to mount the box to.

The FJ-60 setup is really pretty easy to do. The only welding I had to do was to get the plate onto the frame (and install the Ford shock towers).

Good Luck -


PS - If you decide to source your own parts, you can probably get it for half what the kits cost...

I threw in a picture. You can see where the fender is cut around the PS box, where the box mounts, and the ford shock tower. I stiffened the tower on the side toward the box - I think we had to cut it a little. If you look REAL hard, you can see the weld around the front sode of the plate we welded to the frame.

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platypusREX said:

Wow, I bought a used 60 series box for $60 in great shape, I need a few more pieces but I'll be the better part of $1,000 richer by the time I'm done.

One complaint I've heard is that although the Saginaw conversion is good but it feels over boosted, I would imagine like an 80's Chevy sedan. I hate that and since I liked the way my 60 steered, not over boosted with some road feel, I went with it, that and of course it's Toyota.
If you do the 60 on the "cheaper" and you are going to get the box rebuilt, consider drilling and tappting it for hydro assist in the future if your future plans could include rocks or much bigger tires. Much easier to do before the conversion is done.
Correct. You do have to cut the fender and grind the shock tower. People have used a ford shock tower because it is taller and narrower. I dont like that. I want the MAF 2 1/2 towers ground. I can only weld with acetylene. So I want a bolt on job.

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