FJ40 hardtop repair

[CBFJ]

I'm setting out to do some minor maintenance on my '69 hardtop, and want to get some opinions.

First: hole filling and damage repair

I need to remove this plate and fill the bolt holes

Then I have a few partial holes and scrapes to deal with

My plan is to repair these, and paint the whole thing. I assume a light sanding is the best prep.

For the repair material, I have found Evercoat Tiger Hair recommended here:

Amazon product ASIN B000P72GKK
That looks like it might be overkill for my needs; anybody have experience with this:

Amazon product ASIN B00PB3NTFO
Then for paint, I'm capable of rattle canning, and that's about it. Any specific types that won't void the warranty? And correct color reccomendations?


Finally I'm toying with the idea of re-riveting the lid, but would like to avoid that for now to keep it a little simpler. The raingutters do need love, and I have read about people throwing some kind of (silicone?) caulk bead in there every year. Any recommendations?

I do have new rivets coming from CCOT with headliner and weatherstripping, so I could probably be talked into doing it right.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

The bondo brand works well.

 

[coinoperated40]

Separate it and do it right from the beginning. You will thank yourself later.
My 2 $ worth. Prices have changed due to inflation.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Separate it and do it right from the beginning. You will thank yourself later.
My 2 $ worth. Prices have changed due to inflation.

^^^^ This. Separate.

 

[CBFJ]

Thanks all- what's the method for popping the old rivets? Grinder?

And once it's re-riveted, what type of caulk to seal the gutter before paint?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Not trying to be snarky. Use google search to search mud. There are threads on this.

 

[B y r o n]

Standard fiberglass repair is your best bet, avoid silicone as it is just putting a bandaide on the problem.

 

[bhsdriller]

use a quality leveling seam sealer on the gutter

but yeah it's been discussed a lot try searching around

 

[CBFJ]

thanks all! Yes there's a s***load of info here, amazing. Cheers

 

[DangerNoodle]

If you want some help, I'm in Gunnison. I've worked on those hardtops several times. 3m self-leveling is my choice of seam sealer, it usually takes about 1.5 tubes. You will probably want some fiberglass reinforced body filler "kitty hair". The stuff sucks to work with and is a bitach to sand, but it will be needed to properly fill those holes and any cracks. Don't sand into the gelcoat, it only makes things more difficult. Splitting the rain gutter is pretty easy, I'd recommend a flap wheel and some time to pop all the rivets from the bottom. If there isn't any major rust you want to take care of, I'd leave it alone. Depending on how perfect you want it, you can skim the top with a body filler. I would DA the entire lid with 180 to prep for paint, 80 if you are going to skim.

 

[CBFJ]

Thanks Noodle, I may be hitting you up before the snow flies!

So I'll get the Bondo kitty hair stuff and fill the cracks. Paint color question- seems there's debate between Cygnus White and T302 Shell Ivory for the top- any opinions?

 

[DangerNoodle]

True Cygnus white.

 

[CBFJ]

daaaaaamn

 

[steffan]

Nice work - thanks for posting. i'm pretty close to painting mine and opened up my can of cygnus white and was a little shocked how not-white it was

 

[Skreddy]

It is definitely not a true white. Any time I see a true, bright white on the top now it just looks off.
I used Cygnus on my 71, mostly because I couldn’t find a good code for Shell Ivory.

 

[CBFJ]

OK- today I started on what I'm calling my fall art project. Although it's already snowed here, so I need to get a move on! I figured I'll chronicle it here, what the hell.

I split the top/gutter piece from the body, and it all looks pretty solid to me.

My plan was originally to grind out the rivets and replace them, but to my eye they look like they're holding tight and why kick that nest. So my thought is to get a gentle grinder attachment and buff out the gutter as much as I can without damaging the rivets, and then use the 3M self-leveling sealer to seal it. Thoughts?

Next steps:

2. Sand the whole top with dual action sander to prep for paint. I will be using the Bondo short hair glass filler on the scratches and holes, so should I do the whole thing with 80, or 180? And I assume I should go as light as I can on sanding.

3. Fill cracks, holes with Bondo. Let dry and sand with 180.

4. Paint with Cygnus white spray paint (this was recommended on mud- agree?) How many coats?

5. Seal with anything?

6. Redo the headliner. Seems straightforward. Although if I don't pop the rivets I'll have to do it with the metal frame attached. This a pain in the ass?

7. Replace all weatherstripping and re-attach to body.

The interior light still works:

is it worth working around and rehabbing?

If you think re-riveting is essential let me know!

 

[zerotreedelta]

Nice work - thanks for posting. i'm pretty close to painting mine and opened up my can of cygnus white and was a little shocked how not-white it was

Indeed - it's very...not white. I did end up painting my top white-white, but only because the body was going back to factory-original Cygnus, and Cygnus everything is a bit bland...a whiter white at least gave a bit of the two-tone look, and it tricks the eye a bit into the Cygnus looking a bit more tan as well. Cygnus is definitely the way to go with the other colors, though...it's an interesting white for sure.

Your link in 4 takes me to hand lotion...don't use that for paint.

The gutter seems in decent shape, but it really isn't that hard to split it and reattach it either. I think it took me under an hour to redo the 70ish rivets, easy peasy...sometimes you'll spend more than that trying to clean the gutter and glass (top and bottom) while attached. Pick your poison a bit, I suppose.

Headliner was no issue with the gutter on, just need to do some marking and trimming...I think it's more typical to do it after to avoid any paint contamination anyway.

I'd keep the light for it's 40 quirkiness. I probably still have the 3D print STL file from CityRacer (?) if you need a lens...I think that's the one that he has.

EDIT: and definitely go light on the sanding...if you burn through the white gelcoat-type layer, you'll be filling in pinholes in the glass underneath.

 

[CBFJ]

Almond, Rust-Oleum Specialty Gloss Appliance Epoxy Spray Paint, 12 oz - Walmart.com

Buy Almond, Rust-Oleum Specialty Gloss Appliance Epoxy Spray Paint, 12 oz at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

…not lotion

Re: rivets- what’s the tool for the task?

 

[DangerNoodle]

For re-riviting? I've used a custom made punch and stand that had the head rounded out to match the look of a rivited head, and then had a bottom stand that was shaped like the rivet head to sandwitch the two. Then you just smack them together.

 

[Pirate323i]

…not lotion

Re: rivets- what’s the tool for the task?

40 Channel on YouTube
https://youtube.com/channel/UCn8OXTQHWNZ5PMAMWETGspw
Did an episode on putting the roof together. He modified a pair of vice grips to form the rivets. Definitely the route I plan to go, when I get there...