FJ40 Clutch Slave Cylinder Hose Replacement (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone know what works for the Clutch Slave hose? I understand Toyota discontinued the slave hose.

I wanted to use a Stainless Steel hose, and I actually bought one from SOR but I ended up using it on my rear brake lane instead of the hose I got from MAF because it was a little longer (and it was marked as a brake hose).

I had planned to use the MAF SS hose for the Clutch, but when I was looking at the connections and both on the Slave cylinder and the connector end of the SS hose, I noted that they both have a flat round outer mating surface and concave interior profiles (like they are both female), like the photo below. It seems like the hose should have a flared end to make a tight connection. Will it make a tight connection with both ends have the same profile? The Hose connector is slightly longer than the slave threads too, so it not possible to get a tight seal using the supplied copper gasket.

I believe I would have the exact same situation even if I used the SOR hose, so I assume SOR must feel taht this is an acceptable connection. Any thoughts about this out there ?


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Can't speak to your MAF questions but got my last clutch hose from NAPA and it was a perfect fit.
 
I’ve been using a rear brake hose from a 2002 ish tundra and they have worked just fine.
 
I assume you guys probably don’t remember if the hose connector had a flared end or not.

I see a lot of replacement hoses out there for sale with connector ends that look the same as the MAF & SOR SS hoses, so I guess they work.
 
Does anyone know what works for the Clutch Slave hose? I understand Toyota discontinued the slave hose.

I wanted to use a Stainless Steel hose, and I actually bought one from SOR but I ended up using it on my rear brake lane instead of the hose I got from MAF because it was a little longer (and it was marked as a brake hose).

I had planned to use the MAF SS hose for the Clutch, but when I was looking at the connections and both on the Slave cylinder and the connector end of the SS hose, I noted that they both have a flat round outer mating surface and concave interior profiles (like they are both female), like the photo below. It seems like the hose should have a flared end to make a tight connection. Will it make a tight connection with both ends have the same profile? The Hose connector is slightly longer than the slave threads too, so it not possible to get a tight seal using the supplied copper gasket.

I believe I would have the exact same situation even if I used the SOR hose, so I assume SOR must feel taht this is an acceptable connection. Any thoughts about this out there ?


View attachment 3041565
It would help if you indicated what vehicle, year, market we are dealing with.

Toyota clutch hose lines are not discontinued depending on year etc.
 
In a nutshell, All I wanted to know is whether anyone knows if iit is acceptable to use a hose with a non-flared connector end as I described. I prefer to use a stainless steel hose, versus a rubber hose. It’s really a non-vehicle specific question. It’s a matter of how the hydraulic hose connects and seals within the slave cylinder port.
 
Took mine off today replacing the slave cylinder. The end onto the cylinder is non flared and seals with a copper washer.
 
MY RESULTS:

I put my braided SS hose on my new Slave cylinder today as well.

(1) I discovered that the original rubber hose connector didn’t have a flared end either. It wasn’t concave either. It was more of a flat profile. That made me feel better about the connector I have.

(2) The only issue with my SS hose is that the port threading was longer than the Slave cylinder port, therefore it doesn’t make a tight seal on the end of the threads at the outer face where the copper gasket would go. The threads are about 1/16” too long. However, it still made a tight connection that doesn’t leak fluid.

Near as I can tell, the Braided SS hose seems to work fine. I would be happier if the threads were shorter and I had a tighter connection, but from what I can tell, it should be fine. If anyone thinks it’s a problem, please let me know.
 
MY RESULTS:

I put my braided SS hose on my new Slave cylinder today as well.

(1) I discovered that the original rubber hose connector didn’t have a flared end either. It wasn’t concave either. It was more of a flat profile. That made me feel better about the connector I have.

(2) The only issue with my SS hose is that the port threading was longer than the Slave cylinder port, therefore it doesn’t make a tight seal on the end of the threads at the outer face where the copper gasket would go. The threads are about 1/16” too long. However, it still made a tight connection that doesn’t leak fluid.

Near as I can tell, the Braided SS hose seems to work fine. I would be happier if the threads were shorter and I had a tighter connection, but from what I can tell, it should be fine. If anyone thinks it’s a problem, please let me kno
MY RESULTS:

I put my braided SS hose on my new Slave cylinder today as well.

(1) I discovered that the original rubber hose connector didn’t have a flared end either. It wasn’t concave either. It was more of a flat profile. That made me feel better about the connector I have.

(2) The only issue with my SS hose is that the port threading was longer than the Slave cylinder port, therefore it doesn’t make a tight seal on the end of the threads at the outer face where the copper gasket would go. The threads are about 1/16” too long. However, it still made a tight connection that doesn’t leak fluid.

Near as I can tell, the Braided SS hose seems to work fine. I would be happier if the threads were shorter and I had a tighter connection, but from what I can tell, it should be fine. If anyone thinks it’s a problem, please let me know.
As long as it seals, should be good to go. The surface of the slave is milled flat to accept the seal washer, so intended that the threaded portion be shorter than the port threading. Up to you to use. Just keep a 17mm wrench in the car :)
 
Who did you get your hose from?
Online site called "Parts Geek, LLC" - discontinued any purchases from CCOT due to price gouging. There are a number of sites, including SOR (Spectrum Off Road) that have the OEM equivalent hose.
 
You should get the proper hose and copper sealing washer. You might get away without it for a while, at least if it fails its only the clutch and not the brakes.
 
Online site called "Parts Geek, LLC" - discontinued any purchases from CCOT due to price gouging. There are a number of sites, including SOR (Spectrum Off Road) that have the OEM equivalent hose.
Did you just order a Clutch hose for a LandCruiser? It was a good fit?
 

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