- Thread starter
- #41
Yes in the front. I have a separate winch in the rear for the rear axle. It is a warn rt25 and it has enough of a brake to hold when I put it in 2:1 mode.
Builds FJ40 buggy re-fresh
- Thread starter too tall
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Kinda , Ive been extending the rear shock towers and re-doing bit of the rear tub. I started working on the front axle a bit as well. Here is a pic of the new 80 series ball next to the old 60 series one. Quite a bit of difference. I had to get the 80 series ball turned down a bit to fit in the 60 series housing. I'll show more pics of the process when I get it mostly sorted out. Still waiting for a few parts so I can get everything lined up correctly.
The axle shaft is the same size between them. Are you trying to spend more for no more strength or did you find a benefit?
- Thread starter
- #44
The upgrade is the cage in the 80 series birf. Much like larger than the smaller 60 series one. With full hydro steering, the strain is on the birf more than the shafts. I'll get a side by side pic up in the a day or two. Still 30 spline on the shafts but I rarely break the shafts, usually birfs. and usually the cages are the weak spot.
Ok, let us know how that works out.
- Thread starter
- #46
It worked just fine when I wheeled with the old ones so...It can only be better. Bring your junk to where I wheel and try to keep up. Let everyone know how that worked out for you.
Seems to be a lot of guys on here who don't actually like cruiser stuff. Weird, I thought this was a pro-cruiser website?
Chill dude, not trying to piss on your cornflakes. I'm enjoying reading your build, so I'll go back to reading instead of participating.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
I love the line in your signature, I had it on my white board at work for years.
Now, that being said, I am also spending money to build an FJ80 outtered front axle with 9.5" center, on account of 'cause. As TooTall said, there is strength gained in the birfield itself, and you are also gaining strength in the knuckle due to the larger separation of the trunnion bearings. You can also upgrade the drive flange studs/shear pins to larger socket head cap screws to eliminate another weak link.
It's not a Dana 60, but no one is claiming it is. I think TooTall's use/abuse of his stuff is well documented through videos he has posted here, if it has worked well for him until now, small upgrades make sense, no?
Good info, man!! I like the fact of the extra thought, work, and follow thru and not just another bolt on "hardcore build". Nice to see an actual BUILD instead of just another one of these "please spoon feed me what the torque of my spline drive lug nuts should be... "
take it by the pics those are OEM cutoffs and not Ruffstuffs?
take it by the pics those are OEM cutoffs and not Ruffstuffs?
- Thread starter
- #50
The knuckles were removed from an 80 series axle.
It does in theory, but last time I looked into this (before I went wontons) it seemed the shafts and stubs were the weak point with 60 series chromo axles, not the bell/star gear/cage. Moving to 80 series stuff doesn't get you bigger shafts or stubs.
Maybe it's different now, idk. I'm just reading along enjoying the fab work.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
How are you going to route your steering wheel and pedals so that you can reach them from the current position of the seats on the roof? Ha. Just kidding.
I like the angle of your rear fender! That would look really cool with a tube bent in the same shape and some sheet metal shaped around the top of it.
Is the cutout in the rear fender for your shock? I can’t wait to see this one setting back on the tires. Nice work.
- Thread starter
- #54
Been working on a few things. Got a couple of tubes fit into the vent holes to provide some more structure to the roof/windsheild bar support. Also got the stinger roughed in and started getting the two hood side tubes into place. This is how I'm going to run the tubes along side of the hood, they will attach to the A pillar and run along the bottom of the hood lines tying into the stinger at the front. I think its gonna end up pretty close to where It is now. The headlight will be vignetted by the side tubes slightly but mostly clear.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Nice work! Great attention to detail. You aren’t just running tube haphazardly. What an art!
- Thread starter
- #57
Thanks to Gimme a 60 for bringing it to me.
Gonna do a quick compression test then remove a bunch of stuff then clean it up and reseal a few things probably paint it. I think I'll fire it up on the floor before I install it to make sure all is well. Apparently it had 300,000kms(186,000 miles) on the truck it came out of so I hope I can run it for a while without having to do to too much to it. Planning to strip it down pretty bare. I'll try to document.
Gonna do a quick compression test then remove a bunch of stuff then clean it up and reseal a few things probably paint it. I think I'll fire it up on the floor before I install it to make sure all is well. Apparently it had 300,000kms(186,000 miles) on the truck it came out of so I hope I can run it for a while without having to do to too much to it. Planning to strip it down pretty bare. I'll try to document.
- Thread starter
- #59
My son just built that for his first gen tacoma. He's currently welding it out. Ill take a couple of pics of it and post if he doesn't mind?
Couple of pics of the other side tube in place.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
I wonder where your son gets his fabrication skills and perfectionism from.
