FJ40/2F carby; rich idle.

[Solace in Solitude]

Maybe try an "Okie Rebuild" to clear debris that may be preventing the primary and/or secondary barrels closing.

Run engine up to about 2500rpm.

Cover top of carb to choke and kill engine - some use their hand - I use cardboard (with a hole for the AC screw), in case of backfire.

When engine dies, remove cardboard.

Restart engine and see if idle and idle mixture screws kill the engine.

hth

 

[Usernametaken]

Well the Okie rebuild did actually help but it still isn't perfect.
Going to do everything I can this weekend: points, plugs, valve clearances etc etc and then see if I need to put a kit through it.
Time to watch some pinhead videos.

 

[Usernametaken]

With the ignition timing, do I time it to the line or the ball?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Here's another trick I've read about, but I have NO experience with it - it suggests a bit of automatic transmission fluid in the carb, to clean out carbon. Here's a video YOUTUBE

I would read all I could find before trying it, but many have reported good results.

hth

 

[Solace in Solitude]

The ball or BB is 7*BTDC - time it to the ball - some time it to 10-12* or so and say it makes their 2F run better.

The line is TDC.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Set the knob or display on the back of the timing light to 10*. Then twist dissy to bring the pointer to the line.

If the light doesn't have a knob, then set timing so the BB is toward the bottom of the window.

 

[Usernametaken]

Cheers guys. Looks like my timing is set to TDC as well which wouldn't help.
I think I'll need new plugs, wires and coil as well, they are all a bit ratty.

 

[Usernametaken]

Are these all correct?

Firing Order 1-5-3-6-2-4
Spark Plug Gap 0.8mm (Conventional Ign) 1.0mm (Semitransistorised)
Contact Breaker Gap 0.45mm
Dwell angle 41 degrees
Ignition timing 7 deg btdc
Idle speed 650rpm
Valve Clearance (hot) Inlet 0.20mm; Exhaust 0.35mm.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Forget about dwell. This is not a reliable setting. Measure the contact gap and be done with it.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Your numbers all look correct.

Forget about point gap, that is just an approximation. The number that counts is dwell time (how long the points are closed, charging the coil.)

 

[Pin_Head]

My experience is that you cannot achieve the recommended dwell setting and still have it start and run, at least on the 76 I owned. It runs well with the recommended point gap.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

My entire life I agreed with using the dwell rather than the point gap because, as Jim points out, that's what matters.
However, on this vehicle only, for some reason setting the points to the specified dwell results often results in the points being dangerously tight.
A lot of people here have found this.
Here are a couple of threads on the subject.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/points-gap-verse-dwell.675686/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bizarre-dwell-and-point-gap-question.517077/

I guess what I would do is to use the dwell and then measure the gap. If the "proper" dwell results in a point gap that was way tight (like under .010) then I'd use the gap instead. It looks like this poster has a reasonable point gap and dwell so there's no issue.

 

[Pin_Head]

For comparison, the dwell spec for a GM 6 cylinder is 31-34 degrees, which is what the Toyota distributor has with a point gap of .017.

 

[MoCoNative]

I set an early vac advance distributor at 0.018 as I recall and I'm getting a perfect 40-41 dwell. So sometimes it works I guess.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Pin, the dwell is not as important on the 75-77 USA engines because the big transistor charges the coil magikally. The points only provide the break open signal to discharge the coil.

 

[Usernametaken]

This is awesome info guys. Love this forum.

 

[Pin_Head]

Pin, the dwell is not as important on the 75-77 USA engines because the big transistor charges the coil magikally. The points only provide the break open signal to discharge the coil.

I was thinking that might be the case, but I don't have experience with other points style Toyota distributors.

 

[Usernametaken]

It's amazing the difference a quick points gapping and ignition timing makes.
Points gap was about half what it should have been and the timing was set to TDC. sounds a lot smoother now.
I unfortunately don't get much time after work to tinker so I'll do everything on the weekend from start to finish.
Question: I'll be doing my valve clearances as well, what order should I do things in (if there is one)?
Clearances, gap points, gap plugs, timing, carby tune?