FJ40/2F carby; rich idle.

[Usernametaken]

Oops. Pic attached!

 

[Usernametaken]

So I'm going to take @Bambi Girl up on their extremely gracious offer of taking my manifold and making it not suck.
Going to ship it to Brisbane and get it fixed, properly.

 

[Usernametaken]

All packaged up and ready to be sent to the other side of the country for machining, spot facing and nutserts, of which I owe somebody a huge gratitude and a number of bottles of cold liquid.
My timing light and vacuum gauge arrived yesterday so all I need to do now is chase down a fel pro gasket in Australia to ensure I finish the job off properly.
Hopefully this will be the end of this problem.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The Graphlex type gasket is also sold by the Toyota dealer. Mo' money (than a Felpro), but might be easier to get.

 

[Road Warrior 808]

Great thread. Now I can get to work on my unburned-fuel-smelling FJ40.

 

[Usernametaken]

Gasket for the manifold in australia: $45 plus shipping for a non genuine part.
Gasket for the manifold from Japan: $65 plus shipping for both gaskets I need plus all brand new studs, nuts, bolts and washers. All genuine Toyota parts. [emoji19]

And Aussie vendors wonder why people shop overseas.

 

[Usernametaken]

Parts:
Toyota 1717261030 (BJ JP) - 29.73 AUD, 1 items
Toyota 9011608042 (BJ JP) - 2.87 AUD, 4 items
Toyota 9091706003 (BJ JP) - 8.09 AUD, 1 items
Toyota 9011610299 (BJ JP) - 3.39 AUD, 3 items
Toyota 9165161030 BOLT (BJ JP) - 1.17 AUD, 2 items
Toyota 9020112004 (BJ JP) - 1.96 AUD, 6 items
Toyota 9011912003 (BJ JP) - 3.78 AUD, 4 items
Toyota 9011612321 (BJ JP) - 1.30 AUD, 2 items
Toyota 9017012211 (BJ JP) - 1.70 AUD, 4 items
Toyota 9017910010 NUT (BJ JP) - 2.48 AUD, 3 items

Every single gasket, stud, bolt, nut and washer associated with the manifold ordered. All OEM.

 

[Usernametaken]

Arrived! And my manifold should arrive tomorrow.
All things being equal, I should have a running FJ40 by the end of the weekend.

 

[Road Warrior 808]

Keep us posted.....

 

[Usernametaken]

Well my manifold arrived just now. It'll all be getting put together over the weekend.

 

[Usernametaken]

 

[jo 2f]

hmm nice & clean manifold

 

[Usernametaken]

hmm nice & clean manifold

And it worked!
It's running like a top, I am so relieved.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Great news!! Congratulations!!

 

[subzali]

Glad you stuck with it

 

[Usernametaken]

Now it's time to tune her up.
I have a timing light, vacuum gauge and a set of feeler gauges.

 

[Usernametaken]

So aside from a couple of exhaust leaks down from the manifold, it would appear that I have fixed the inlet/exhaust issue.
However I still have a few issues: no matter what I do with the idle mixture screw, I can't get it to stall from it, same with the idle screw, even when backed right out it won't stall although does drop down to satisfactory revs.
It spits out a lot of droplets (condensate?) from the tailpipe, it's also rather black and sooty. It spatters the driveway but it's not oily.
The vac gauge sits at about 12 inches but fluctuates +/-2 inches, it's a solid idle but slightly uneasy, it also puffs black smoke at idle that turns greyish upon revving the engine. It misfires upon revving.
Am I up for a carby rebuild?

 

[Solace in Solitude]

When I had this issue, it turned out the choke breaker (on my Aisin carb) was stuck. I had already removed the choke cable and thought the choke wasn't the issue. But @FJ40Jim said to check the Choke Breaker again. I wiggled the linkage and it popped back out.

Then, I ws able to adjust the idle to 650rpm and kill the engine by adjusting the idle mixture down.

Once I did that, I was able to proper set idle and idle mix.

hth

 

[Usernametaken]

Unfortunately, the choke breaker appears to be working fine.
(Stood by my car now and just worked the linkage.)

 

[FJ40Jim]

If backing out the idle speed screw doesn't kill the engine, then it is getting air somewhere. Likely candidates include: primary barrel not closing completely, second barrel not closed completely, air leaks at carb/manifold gaskets...