Hey Weak-Link,
Looks great, you've inspired me into building the same.
Looks great, you've inspired me into building the same.
FJ 62 SOA begins!
- Thread starter chicago
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wrong you are surfer boy!
as long as you have three mounting points. 2 at the axle fixed and one at the front of the bar that allows for movement.
the single bar IMO is a better design.
Read above Post
Jim's quick aint he
i don't think i've been awake for a couple months.
cutting and welding in my sleeeeee..............................................ep
i get slower as the dayz go by...............................................
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
I have a similar setup on my 62 behind a big block. I have had no problems with it bending or breaking parts. I like the look of the single bar setup much better than the ladder bar also.
Yulp there is the nice setup Wag has...Very nice. See Jim I even mentioned that setup....
Wag you have some very nice rigs.
Wag you have some very nice rigs.
I have a similar setup on my 62 behind a big block. I have had no problems with it bending or breaking parts. I like the look of the single bar setup much better than the ladder bar also.
i know it has been mentioned but having the trac bar mounted on 2 places on the axle at first i was confused thinking that yall meant like a "y" shape... (forgive me im still trying to loose the stupidness from the heep days
)anyway now that i see it i understand the design (one mounting point one both front and rear of axle) and it seems to be a good design. ok well my question is about the point at which it mounts to the crossmember. i understand this meeds to have some movement but how much does it need? in other words how far does the "drop down" peice need to extend? like in gary's pic it drops down looks like allmost level with the driveshaft.
i know he said he has had no problems but it looks (looks from a visual point never seeing it work and making my own asumptions) that whenever heavy skinny pedal was applied its gonna cause that axle to twist toward the back or the rig while the tires run forward. thus making the "drop bar" then extend untill pointing at rear axle. so the longer the bar the more wrap it would allow... because if it extends out its that much farther the axle can aim the pinion towards the rig. SO all that being said what is the cutoffpoint in length that one would want to run on that bar? obviously not to short for sus. flex but not to long due to wrap and broken parts.
Sorry so long just talkinmg outloud if anything i have typed is incorect please let me know. trying to learn.
***EDIT***
I wanted to edit this post as i now know the mechanics of this design.
when torque is applied the bar will press straight up on the shackle or "drop bar" as i previously called it and will not allow it to twist back towards the axle like i was thinking for some reason at the time. same thing applies if in reverse it would just pull on the shackle. the idea of the shackle is to allow up and down travel of the axle during suspension movement and still allow proper drive line angles.
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rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
i know it has been mentioned but having the trac bar mounted on 2 places on the axle at first i was confused thinking that yall meant like a "y" shape... (forgive me im still trying to loose the stupidness from the heep days
anyway now that i see it i understand the design (one mounting point one both front and rear of axle) and it seems to be a good design. ok well my question is about the point at which it mounts to the crossmember. i understand this meeds to have some movement but how much does it need? in other words how far does the "drop down" peice need to extend? like in gary's pic it drops down looks like allmost level with the driveshaft.
i know he said he has had no problems but it looks (looks from a visual point never seeing it work and making my own asumptions) that whenever heavy skinny pedal was applied its gonna cause that axle to twist toward the back or the rig while the tires run forward. thus making the "drop bar" then extend untill pointing at rear axle. so the longer the bar the more wrap it would allow... because if it extends out its that much farther the axle can aim the pinion towards the rig. SO all that being said what is the cutoffpoint in length that one would want to run on that bar? obviously not to short for sus. flex but not to long due to wrap and broken parts.
Sorry so long just talkinmg outloud if anything i have typed is incorect please let me know. trying to learn.
I don't understand the mechanixc of it but everything I read said to make the anti wrap bar follow as close to possiabe the angle of the drive shaft.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
Like I know my a-hole from my elbow.
Jack has a lot more builds and years of experience behind him than I do. If he says a spring pack can be built that eliminates axle wrap I tend to believe him.
My opinions are based on what I have read here and on other forums. I do know that I could feel the whole back end of my rig drop down under acceleration before I installed my wrap bar. And I'm not a hot rod type driver, this was just normal "egg between the gas and my foot" acceleration.
You might try driving it first to see what happens.
One thing about axle wrap, you can make your spring perches super long and run thicker leaves on the rig as well. In the end, it will ride fairly harsh and you still will experience wrap (tho diminished)
even 1 ton trucks typically use some sort of traction bar if they exceed their designed tire size.
even 1 ton trucks typically use some sort of traction bar if they exceed their designed tire size.
i totally can understand that what i have a issue comprehending is teh drop down the farther it drops the more wrap it will allow. now if the crossmember were to drop instead of a bar i think that would be more efficient due to the fact that the drop bar would be shorter and it would still allow for the flex and also stop the wrap..
***EDIT***
I edited my post on the previous page as i understand how this all works now.
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- Thread starter
- #274
Like I know my a-hole from my elbow.
Jack has a lot more builds and years of experience behind him than I do. If he says a spring pack can be built that eliminates axle wrap I tend to believe him.
My opinions are based on what I have read here and on other forums. I do know that I could feel the whole back end of my rig drop down under acceleration before I installed my wrap bar. And I'm not a hot rod type driver, this was just normal "egg between the gas and my foot" acceleration.
You might try driving it first to see what happens.
From the sounds of it, Jack has more build experience than you and I put together...
My point was, that LOTS of people were talking about axel wrap and the horrors associated with it and I knew at that point that I wanted to prevent that s*** from happening to me...SO, trac bar it is, and its not all that much effort when all is said and done (So It seems)!
As for the design I chose...Its relatively simple, and I can build it myself, and it has worked for others, and it makes perfect sense to me, so...most likely that is what Ill be gonig with.
I was not trying to belittle Jack or his knowledge in ANY way shape or form, and I hope that it didnt come across that way, nor was I trying to argue a point with him.
Simply put...Its a cheap mod I can build myself, if for nothing else than my own piece of mind.
It might be ok NOT using a trac bar...I DONNO. But to be honest, I dont want to chance it trying to find out.
The masses on here say its a good idea...that's all I know!
Jack...you OK there buddy!?
Chicago
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I need to use more emoticons. 
- Thread starter
- #276
I need to use more emoticons.
Yeah!
Its amazing how they can change the tone of a post
crab ass!
Chicago
YODA 88 62
SILVER Star
http://diy4x.com/suspension.htm
This site has some good lower shock mounts and some bushings for the anti-wrap bar.
This site has some good lower shock mounts and some bushings for the anti-wrap bar.
- Thread starter
- #278
Cool link yoda!
Are you making your own brackets for your trac bar?
I ordered mine from Ruff stuff, and I was wondering what you were gonna be using.
i picked up a set of the lower shock mounts from Sky MFG.
Chicago
YODA 88 62
SILVER Star
I am making my own out of 1/4 flat steel. Cost me $10 for 2ftx4in. I made a template with a piece of cardboard and traced it on the metal. Still have some left over. If i had gone with the ladder bar, i would have ordered the brackets for the trac bar.
From the sounds of it, Jack has more build experience than you and I put together...
My point was, that LOTS of people were talking about axel wrap and the horrors associated with it and I knew at that point that I wanted to prevent that s*** from happening to me...SO, trac bar it is, and its not all that much effort when all is said and done (So It seems)!
As for the design I chose...Its relatively simple, and I can build it myself, and it has worked for others, and it makes perfect sense to me, so...most likely that is what Ill be gonig with.
I was not trying to belittle Jack or his knowledge in ANY way shape or form, and I hope that it didnt come across that way, nor was I trying to argue a point with him.
Simply put...Its a cheap mod I can build myself, if for nothing else than my own piece of mind.
It might be ok NOT using a trac bar...I DONNO. But to be honest, I dont want to chance it trying to find out.
The masses on here say its a good idea...that's all I know!
Jack...you OK there buddy!?
No worries guys, it would much more than that to hurt my feeling. And as the cliche goes...there is more than one way to skin a cat.
On my Jeep, the rear spring pack flexed very well and still controlled the spring wrap. It would ramp 1000 on a 20 degree ramp and was very balanced front to rear. I never had a problem with spring wrap whether I was pulling my buddies Scout when it was broke, snow wheeling or climbing some of the bigger ledges in Moab. I built the Jeep springs by combining stock with lift springs.
My 4runner also flexed very well, not as balanced front to rear(the front flexed more), but again no matter what I did, I never had a problem with spring wrap. All-Pro 5 inch rear springs.
I am a finesse wheeler and only use the skinny pedal when a absolutely have to.
I know that stock springs are very prone, but with a little work, leaf springs can flex and still control spring wrap. Both my Jeep and my 4runner had 4-6 inch spring perches and had either a 4:1 t-case or double cases with stock and 4:1 gearing on 35's.
Jack
