Fj 60 carb and intake manifold quote (1 Viewer)

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Location
austin tx
Good afternoon y’all!

Was hoping to get some feed back on some quotes I’ve been given by a local mechanic Shop here in Austin, Tx. (Bearden Automotive).

1. Weber carb rebuild - $594
2. Manifold repair - $711 not including the part itself.
3. Cooler hose repair $259

Is that about ballpark $ for the work to be done? Appreciate you guys!
 
1. Iirc @FJ40Jim charges around $400 to rebuild the stock Aisin and TBH I think you'd be better off with a rebuilt Aisin than a Weber.

2. Define "Manifold Repair". $711 to have the intake and exhaust manifolds machined flat as a pair sound ludicrously expensive. I picked up matched set from the Mud Classifieds this spring for $200. If your exhaust manifold is cracked/broken just buy a used one.

3. Which hose are you refering to when you say "Cooler hose"?
 
Hose that needs replacing is circled in the photo below.

I was just told that the manifold was warped and has a vacuum leak.

C66385E8-1C26-48B6-9981-D22C9D017D65.jpeg
 
Paging @ToyotaMatt to the parts courtesy phone.

You can buy brand new Weber 32/36 DGV carbs for $300 - $400 and likely good used ones for less.

Its common for these exhaust manifolds to warp over time....and to machine them properly the intake and exhaust have to be machined together....but $700 sounds very high for this work. Edit.... didn't realize this was just reflecting the labor to remove and install at the shop.


Lastly that cooler hose...its nothing fancy and while there still may be a toyota part available its just a rubber coolant hose with a couple of clamps. If you use a new piece of hose and new clamps you are looking at maybe $15 in parts. If the truck is cold and you work quickly you can probably even swap the hose out without losing to much coolant. If I go conservative here we might say 30 minutes of labor and $20 in parts if they have to add some coolant. So maybe $50 - $60 line item.
 
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I appreciate the insight very much! I actually had an oil gasket replaced with the land cruiser specialist about 3 weeks ago. I just decided to give these other guys a try since I read on here that they were more recommended for mechanical work.

I’m starting to feel like I should give it a try doing all the labor myself.
 

If he’s pulling your manifolds, machining them flat, and then re-installing them - $711 plus gaskets is a pretty good deal. It’s a lot of labor to get them off and on again.

The carb rebuild cost seems a little high, as does the cooler, but like a lot of mechanics the guy’s probably got a one or two hour minimum. Or maybe he’s making up some of his manifold time on the other items...
 
If he’s pulling your manifolds, machining them flat, and then re-installing them - $711 plus gaskets is a pretty good deal. It’s a lot of labor to get them off and on again.

The carb rebuild cost seems a little high, as does the cooler, but like a lot of mechanics the guy’s probably got a one or two hour minimum. Or maybe he’s making up some of his manifold time on the other items...
I think that quote was just for the installation of the manifold. Office guy told me that he recommended I look for a new one and that they were about $900 on Spector off road.
 
If he’s pulling your manifolds, machining them flat, and then re-installing them - $711 plus gaskets is a pretty good deal. It’s a lot of labor to get them off and on again.

The carb rebuild cost seems a little high, as does the cooler, but like a lot of mechanics the guy’s probably got a one or two hour minimum. Or maybe he’s making up some of his manifold time on the other items...

Yeah, I was stuck in DIY mode and forgetting that the OP was handing it over entirely to a shop. Therefore the shop if smart is building in time for breaking bolts, stuck bolts etc etc. I see the $900 manifolds on SOR and they are just used though hopefully cleaned up and ready to go. Your intake manifold should be fine and honestly the shop that does the work should evaluate your current exhaust manifold. No reason to spend another $900 if your current one is fine but needs to be machined flat.
 
I appreciate the insight very much! I actually had an oil gasket replaced with the land cruiser specialist about 3 weeks ago. I just decided to give these other guys a try since I read on here that they were more recommended for mechanical work.

I’m starting to feel like I should give it a try doing all the labor myself.

If you have some basic tools, patience, and some space to work these machines are pretty simple to work on. Lots of good info on this forum including write up others have done and a lot of good youtube videos. I took my whole intake and exhaust off this spring and I had everything out of the engine bay in about 1 hour of work. I got lucky that all my nuts and bolts came apart without issue. I did have to repair the threads on most of the holes in my replacement intake manifold, and I did have to use a friends milling machine to get a broken stud out of my exhaust manifold. But I'd wager if you have any level of mechanical aptitude you could do a lot of this work.
 
Yeah, I was stuck in DIY mode and forgetting that the OP was handing it over entirely to a shop. Therefore the shop if smart is building in time for breaking bolts, stuck bolts etc etc. I see the $900 manifolds on SOR and they are just used though hopefully cleaned up and ready to go. Your intake manifold should be fine and honestly the shop that does the work should evaluate your current exhaust manifold. No reason to spend another $900 if your current one is fine but needs to be machined flat.
Do most machine shops offer this service?
 
Do most machine shops offer this service?

most machine shops will machine manifolds however not all machine shops know how to do these bolt together type of intake/exhaust manifolds.
 
The Tech notes indicate your truck is dieseling - And as noted, will continue to do so even with a rebuild because the Weber does not have a provision for cutting fuel flow when the engine is turned off, like the stock Carb.

He's currently out of stock, but City Racer offers a Japanese Close of the stock carb and it's NEW and cheaper than rebuilding the webbah! And it has the Idle Control Solenoid which is there to stop dieseling....

HOWEVER, to use that carb you need to have the original Rod Linkage, not the cable that's there now. You still have it ?


The link above to the Intake/Exhaust combo is a good price and will allow you to have that one surfaced and rebuilt, then installed to save down time on your vehicle.

Prices are ok, except for the hose replacement quote.
 
most machine shops will machine manifolds however not all machine shops know how to do these bolt together type of intake manifolds.
Cool, I’ll try calling around local machine shops to see if they offer the service and to get a quote. Wish I had better photos of my intake manifold

E793825B-211B-435E-988F-5131518D0452.jpeg


F3B6EEDC-1002-43B8-AF3C-352A08FCA35C.jpeg
 
So one further point is that the air injection system has been removed from your truck. Do you have to pass any emission testing where you live? If so then you are going to need a lot of missing pieces to have any chance of passing a sniffer test. If you don't have any emission requirements then you could also remove the whole EGR system and have your distributor curve remapped....FYI Your EGR isnt even operating at this point...its missing vacuum lines currently.

I'm not seeing any vacuum lines. can you post a picture of your distributor?
 
Well that explains the no-Vacuum line, however the Vac Advancer may not be working ....
 

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