FMC80
SILVER Star
Paul, you're going to end up with a new ride once you're done! Great work dude!
Builds Fix'n up the Land Cruiser.....
- Thread starter TYM4FUN
- Start date
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FMC80
SILVER Star
Will you be able to sleep at night knowing what you did? My conscience would weigh too heavy on me if I had one valve different and non-OEM from the others.
- Thread starter
- #644
True.
- Thread starter
- #646
After scratching my head the past few days, I think I have my add on circuits mapped out. I want to utilize the available space in the factory box. With the ABS out, I will use that feed for the york and the aux fan and replace the 60 amp ABS fuse with a 30 for the compressor. While at the moment I have the fan drawn up using a stand alone OEM high amp toggle switch, I might utilize the OEM fan relay blank to use a standard pushbutton.
The fog lights I don't have will get to use a blank pin crimp on the fuse bridge between the left and right headlamp fuses. If I have read the diagrams correctly, this will allow them to auto shut off with the door switch like the headlamps. An OEM high amp fog light switch will be used. The DRL'S will share the crimp on the EFI ACC side of the relay.
I believe I have this sorted correctly. Here is the sketch I made. Please yell at me if something is incorrect/bad.
The fog lights I don't have will get to use a blank pin crimp on the fuse bridge between the left and right headlamp fuses. If I have read the diagrams correctly, this will allow them to auto shut off with the door switch like the headlamps. An OEM high amp fog light switch will be used. The DRL'S will share the crimp on the EFI ACC side of the relay.
I believe I have this sorted correctly. Here is the sketch I made. Please yell at me if something is incorrect/bad.
I believe a AC clutch takes only around 5 to 7 amps with a momentary spike during engagement.
- Thread starter
- #650
AC clutch circuit will not be altered.
I mean for the york clutch.
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- #652
Ah, lol. Thanks. I was just mimicking the fuse layout that came with the wits' end manifold, it is 30amps.
Good info though, as it gives me a better idea of the available amps on the ABS circuit. Thank you.
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- #653
Some parts came in but still waiting for my fuse terminals and power wires.
Three grounds have been ran for the in-cab switches. Seat heater switch for the York relay and the two OEM toggle switches for the fan and fog lamps.
Three grounds have been ran for the in-cab switches. Seat heater switch for the York relay and the two OEM toggle switches for the fan and fog lamps.
- Thread starter
- #654
Finished installing the wits' end air manifold kit and running the wires for the relay and power supply. The power wires follow the same path as the air line I ran.
Pulled the outbound side of the ABS fuse and attached it for the York compressor.
Pulled the outbound side of the ABS fuse and attached it for the York compressor.
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- #655
Scored another free power supply and switch for my under-hood lighting. This removes yet another wire I had running to the battery! The relay that comes with the air manifold kit has an unused power wire (87A). This circuit will always have 12v until the relay is energized for the York, perfect. I added my previously unused wits' end fuse terminal to 87A, then to the switch normally used for the York compressor. (This is not in use since I am installing the in-cap switch.)
Once I finish cleaning the hood and restoring the hood ribs with seam sealer, I will run the power to my light.
Once I finish cleaning the hood and restoring the hood ribs with seam sealer, I will run the power to my light.
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- Thread starter
- #656
This is the 12v supply/fuse terminal bridge for the headlamps. The empty spot is where I mentioned I will crimp my supply wire for the fog lamp circuit.
I also removed yet another wire from under the hood. It was used for my subwoofer amp (8awg). I will instead run 4awg Monster cable to a distribution block in the back. This replaces my old CCA 4awg jumper cable wire I stupidly used for the fridge and Puma prior. This Monster cable used to power my subs I had in my totalled GMC Sierra.
I also removed yet another wire from under the hood. It was used for my subwoofer amp (8awg). I will instead run 4awg Monster cable to a distribution block in the back. This replaces my old CCA 4awg jumper cable wire I stupidly used for the fridge and Puma prior. This Monster cable used to power my subs I had in my totalled GMC Sierra.
i junked my OE 100 series aux fan and replaced with dual SPAL fan and they move AIR now
- Thread starter
- #658
- Thread starter
- #660
Intake valve guide bushings were fine so just the 12 exhaust bushings were replaced along with the one new oem exhaust valve.
Head was off .006 so they surfaced that, new intake and exhaust valve stem seals, pressure tested, polished the cams, full valve grind with tipping the stems and setting the adjustments, tanked the valve cover and intake manifold.
Head was off .006 so they surfaced that, new intake and exhaust valve stem seals, pressure tested, polished the cams, full valve grind with tipping the stems and setting the adjustments, tanked the valve cover and intake manifold.
