fix for immobilizer issue? (19 Viewers)

[DMX84]

Just curious if I might be falling victim to the same issue...

Have had my '00 for (200k miles) for a couple months now and it has always started up no issue. Weather got colder and starting this weekend, I put my key in and when attempting to start it, all the electronics fire up and work fine but nothing from the engine. I have programmed new keys, so I am familiar with the engine trying to turn over and never starting if the chip isn't programmed....but this isn't the same, as the engine doesn't crank with this issue..just nothing happens (other than all electronics coming on an working fine).

It started 100% of the time without any hesitation until this weekend where it didn't. I pulled the key, re-entered it and it started up. Then a day later, I ran some errands, same thing. Then that evening, I thought I was stranded at work as it took several key re-entries to get it to start up (when it does, it starts right up). Then this cold morning, no amount of retrying would start it (have tried all my keys, cycled the alarm/door lock several times)

Could this still be fuse/fuse box related or should I be looking into other issues?

I acted similar and ended up being a fuse. Here’s the link and you can read into more of my issue in this thread.

Cruiser cranks, won't start!

I'm kind of thinking injectors as well, but *supposedly* they were cleaned recently. I'm holding off on most drivetrain parts until I get the MS3 installed, however I've replaced the 02 sensors to no avail. I DO however have a crack in part of the intake/vacuum system (the large rectangular box...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Tele65]

Does your immobilizer light come on? It's the red light that looks like a car with a key inside the car outline. Its beside the clock in this picture. If that is on, your car will not start.

 

[cadeucsb]

I acted similar and ended up being a fuse. Here’s the link and you can read into more of my issue in this thread.

Sounds like yours was cranking when turning the key like others in this thread. When I turn my key, I get nothing from the engine. Like a dead battery, but all my electronics work fine and I can listen to the radio etc.

Did you just swap the EFI fuse? This is my first plan of attack just to see, but I posted as it sounds like my starting behavior is a tiny bit diff.

 

[cadeucsb]

Does your immobilizer light come on? It's the red light that looks like a car with a key inside the car outline. Its beside the clock in this picture. If that is on, your car will not start.

I do need to double check, but I recall when programming the keys... testing a key that I thought was programmed (but wasnt), would fire up all electronics and crank but never turn over. In this instance, its not cranking. I will check and report back

side note: battery is almost brand new also (but shouldnt be battery as electronics work fine)

 

[Tele65]

I do need to double check, but I recall when programming the keys... testing a key that I thought was programmed (but wasnt), would fire up all electronics and crank but never turn over. In this instance, its not cranking. I will check and report back

side note: battery is almost brand new also (but shouldnt be battery as electronics work fine)

If it's immobilizer engine will turn over but will not start. EFI circuit does not allow fuel to pump. That connection for the EFI fuse can get loose. I soldered a bead on each blade per someone earlier in the post and no problems since then.

 

[DMX84]

Sounds like yours was cranking when turning the key like others in this thread. When I turn my key, I get nothing from the engine. Like a dead battery, but all my electronics work fine and I can listen to the radio etc.

Did you just swap the EFI fuse? This is my first plan of attack just to see, but I posted as it sounds like my starting behavior is a tiny bit diff.

I had originally pulled and inspected (not blown). For whatever reason I thought to swap the fuse and it started. Apparently it was so oxidized that it want making contact.

 

[cadeucsb]

Tested tonight. Security light goes off when key inserted. No cranking but all electronics fire up and work fine.

Swapped the efi fuse just in case…no help.

Since no cranking, I’m on to the low hanging fruit…cleaning up ground connections/battery terminals and replacing the starter relay.

Probably spin off to a new thread if folks agree that immobilizer is likely not the issue since the light goes out and no cranking.

 

[Tele65]

I had originally pulled and inspected (not blown). For whatever reason I thought to swap the fuse and it started. Apparently it was so oxidized that it want making contact.

Great! If it happens again, put that drop of solder on each blade, file it down so its just a little bump. Usually those contacts where you put the fuse in gets loose. Glad you got it going.

 

[medtro]

Just curious if I might be falling victim to the same issue...

Have had my '00 for (200k miles) for a couple months now and it has always started up no issue. Weather got colder and starting this weekend, I put my key in and when attempting to start it, all the electronics fire up and work fine but nothing from the engine. I have programmed new keys, so I am familiar with the engine trying to turn over and never starting if the chip isn't programmed....but this isn't the same, as the engine doesn't crank with this issue..just nothing happens (other than all electronics coming on an working fine).

It started 100% of the time without any hesitation until this weekend where it didn't. I pulled the key, re-entered it and it started up. Then a day later, I ran some errands, same thing. Then that evening, I thought I was stranded at work as it took several key re-entries to get it to start up (when it does, it starts right up). Then this cold morning, no amount of retrying would start it (have tried all my keys, cycled the alarm/door lock several times)

Could this still be fuse/fuse box related or should I be looking into other issues?

You have a different problem. I would check battery health, wires connections, starter contacts.

 

[cadeucsb]

You have a different problem. I would check battery health, wires connections, starter contacts.

Yeah I pivoted over to a new thread: Starting Issues (not the infamous immobilizer)

Turns out, its ignition related...wiggling the key/steering wheel while starting and it starts right up.

 

[spressomon]

Well, after getting back home today I ran a wire from the battery to the fused wire on the bypass kit and same symptom per my issue above: Fuse blows (30A) immediately when engine cranks over for fails to start.

Appreciate any advice/tips where to go from here...

Also, for the guys that swapped the fuse box...any tips on removal? I loosened the 3 screws holding the fuse box to the fender but it seems like there must be one more screw on the fender side of the fuse box but I can't see one. Normally, I don't get stumped but this time...I'm stumped

 

[DMX84]

Great! If it happens again, put that drop of solder on each blade, file it down so its just a little bump. Usually those contacts where you put the fuse in gets loose. Glad you got it going.

That suggestion is a solid one, simple, and definitely will fix the contact issue. The funny thing is, I removed the fuse to see if it was blown. Since it wasn't, I reinstalled it, and it still didn't start due to the oxidation on the contact. It wasn't until later that I was convinced it had to be the fuse, so I swapped it with another and fired up!

 

[kevgentile]

Well, after getting back home today I ran a wire from the battery to the fused wire on the bypass kit and same symptom per my issue above: Fuse blows (30A) immediately when engine cranks over for fails to start.

Appreciate any advice/tips where to go from here...

Also, for the guys that swapped the fuse box...any tips on removal? I loosened the 3 screws holding the fuse box to the fender but it seems like there must be one more screw on the fender side of the fuse box but I can't see one. Normally, I don't get stumped but this time...I'm stumped

Did you ever get your box out? I did mine a year ago to repair the EFI circuit and rebuild the box.

The bolt that grounds the fuse box to the body is a real pita. A lot of twist, turn, and pull is required. Removing everything around it can ease the process but is another task in itself.

 

[DMX84]

Well, after getting back home today I ran a wire from the battery to the fused wire on the bypass kit and same symptom per my issue above: Fuse blows (30A) immediately when engine cranks over for fails to start.

Appreciate any advice/tips where to go from here...

Also, for the guys that swapped the fuse box...any tips on removal? I loosened the 3 screws holding the fuse box to the fender but it seems like there must be one more screw on the fender side of the fuse box but I can't see one. Normally, I don't get stumped but this time...I'm stumped

Any update on this issue? Maby a faulty starter?

 

[spressomon]

The 100 still sits…haven’t had time and/or decent weather to work on it. @medtro communicated with me and thinks there more than likely is a short between F and the ECU. I purchased this per his recommendation https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0719JV971?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

and will get around to diagnosing it sometime…

 

[vsaudi]

Continued from above...

6. Applied a couple pieces of marine grade heat shrink to the fuse holder leads.
7. Soldered the new fuse holder to the tinned tabs, this took some heat...
8. Heat up heat shrink.
View attachment 1311063

9. Job done, car fired right up!

Total time 1 hour, cost, $4.95.

This was great solution. Had some extra fuse holders and car is running great. Wish i was better at soldering.

 

[Marshmallow]

edit: big thanks to everyone that put so much detail into this thread (and the sub threads that got merged into this one), I definitely see the root cause looks like a crappy fuse holder/connection.
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Had this issue yesterday - wife tried starting vehicle and it cranked but didn't fire. I came home and looked for the immobilizer light as I put the key in and it didn't turn off. Tried all three keys, no luck. Searched and this is the first thread I looked at. Read the first page (up to 13 already!) and went out to try some stuff.

First up pulled the fuse and had a look at it. Tiny bit of black on the tip of the fuse. Put it back in, no luck

Second swapped it for the radio fuse. No luck. No other 20 amp fuses around the house.

Third, dug out my bin of connectors and car wiring stuff to see if I had any spade connectors (I imagined using the flat quick disconnect that come in male & female), no luck, need to go buy some. Didn't see the photo of the yellow spade terminal stuck in to connect the two terminals, I have lots of those.

Fourth, since I had to go out to buy some supplies to build my version of a jumper, I figured no harm in pulling the glove box so I could reseat the ECU connectors. Did that, replaced the 20 amp fuse (had it out cause I was going to build a jumper) put the key in and the immobilizer light went out. Truck started right up.

Went out and bought supplies to build a jumper (with real wire!). Also picked up some 20 amp fuses. Then taught the wife to how to recognize the issue (immobilizer light) and what to do if it happens again (pull fuse and install a new one, then if that doesn't work tap the EFI relay, then try turning on the lights to see if that works, lastly pull the fuse and install the jumper I built). She is supposed to hook up the trailer and head off for 10 days of camping today so I wanted to make sure she was able to deal with it on her own if she needed to.

We definitely have water intrusion issues so I'm guessing reseating the ECU connectors may have been the fix, but don't know for sure if it was that or if me pulling the fuse three times was the charm. I'll be soldering in a new fuse holder if the problem persists, but I also have to see if I can fix some of the water issues too (had the windshield replaced last month and the top flange was a rusted out mess, so I might be limited in what I can do about it).