fix for immobilizer issue? (2 Viewers)

[Campoa]

Had the same problem with my car.
1HD-T TD2 12 Valve on my 1998 HDJ100
98% of the times it did start with no problems. 2% Cranked but did not start. Tried everything until i've read this thread. And yes, it was the immobilizer. I live in a very hot country and most of the 2% times happened after the car had been in the sun for a while. One of the times it happened after i left the radio on for about 10 minutes while i was loading the car.
Once i've identified that it was the electronic IMO that was not unblocking the fuel valve, we've brought current directly to it as soon as i turn the key and so, the imo is overridden . So far so good!! Or am i just on the 98% times that it does start...

 

[Unca Charlie]

me too
Well, I mean the immobilizer/fusebox issue. Should have come here months ago - I thought it was my key. Ordered ebay masters, not chipped correctly, returned. Intermittent problem got worse - then I remembered 6 years ago my EFI fuse 'fried' but did not burn out. I got 6 years out of a twisted-blade fuse - better than most. Good to know what the problem is, a truck that won't start really sucks.

Getting worse and worse - started up with jumper as shown here (as mentioned earlier in this thread)
My immobilizer fix
Good to review this thread too
100 series cranks but won't turn over / start

Seems like our 100's share the same problems.
Careful opening up your door - the cables aren't sold separately

Good news my cheapo bent staple fix is still working on my cable end.

Interesting immobilizer / reprogram page
DIY: Immobilizer Hacking for Lost Keys or Swapped ECU

Waaay after the fact here, but I had this issue with my '99. The flashing car (security) light would blink and it wouldn't start. I got a new key, and it worked for 2 days, then it wouldn't start again. Punching the ignition (key out, ot course) did work a couple times when I was stranded. My locksmith guy said he could reflash the ECM to disable the immobilizer. Turns out he couldn't do that fix on the '99 to '01 100s.

He decided to check the ignition and there is a signal amplifier in the ignition that sends the signal to the key to de-immobilize the 100. He replaced that for $120 and the fix has been fin for the last 8 months. He even ga\ve me a free key to boot after he mistakenly told me to remove the ECM.

 

[Campoa]

interesting

 

[Unca Charlie]

Yeah, I really didn't want to replace the fuse box because for all the problems, it didn't seem like that fuses and wiring were the issue. I did all the tricks of replacing the fuses, using bigger fuses, and using paper clips didn't do anything.

 

[kevin2i]

Waaay after the fact here, but I had this issue with my '99. The flashing car (security) light would blink and it wouldn't start. I got a new key, and it worked for 2 days, then it wouldn't start again. Punching the ignition (key out, ot course) did work a couple times when I was stranded. My locksmith guy said he could reflash the ECM to disable the immobilizer. Turns out he couldn't do that fix on the '99 to '01 100s.

He decided to check the ignition and there is a signal amplifier in the ignition that sends the signal to the key to de-immobilize the 100. He replaced that for $120 and the fix has been fin for the last 8 months. He even ga\ve me a free key to boot after he mistakenly told me to remove the ECM.

Good to know. As in the fuse pics above, it is pretty obvious when the fuse box is the problem (and can be verified by jumper).
At this point, the anti-theft feature is more a problem than it is worth, and us your mechanic found out - impossible to bypass.

 

[TMoney10]

Just got this issue today after getting a alignment, car was cracking for 10 sec then started, a hour later same thing!!! Looks like the owner before me had a jumper installed, I'll swap out the fuse tommorow and see if that helps, would adding a 25 or 30 fuse be better?

I just upgraded my battery last week with a odessey extreme also.

 

[sacman]

I ran into this issue and tried to fix it with the following:
1. New battery. Starter was replaced within 3K miles. Worked for couple trips
2. Cleaned fuse. Worked for couple starts
3. Bypassed EFI with guide from dmetro. Worked for couple trips

Today, it stops working again. I also noticed that rear right window swith stoped working. I had to walk home in the middle of the smoke because of the current fire in North Calif and it was not good. This is the first time in 10 years the lexus left me stranded. I'm down to the last resort which is the fuse box.

QN

 

[Kanterror]

Do 98's have the security light? I'm having all these symptoms but my CEL stays on when the key is on. Not noticing a security light. Crank but no start. Started happening after a rain storm and I did have my horn go off during the rain storm so I'm assuming something got corroded.

 

[Mauser]

Do 98's have the security light? I'm having all these symptoms but my CEL stays on when the key is on. Not noticing a security light. Crank but no start. Started happening after a rain storm and I did have my horn go off during the rain storm so I'm assuming something got corroded.

Yes, my 98 LX does anyway. Sounds to me like you have a leak. Could be the ecu getting wet.

 

[Kanterror]

Yes, my 98 LX does anyway. Sounds to me like you have a leak. Could be the ecu getting wet.

If my security light isn't blinking and my CEL is staying on - does that rule out the imobilzer? It was having a hard time starting for about a week. Usually second key turn would get it going but had to have it towed home yesterday. It isn't getting fuel but I don't think it's the fuel pump since it was an electrical issue with the horn and this all started after the storm. I'm guessing more electrical gremlins.

 

[Mauser]

If my security light isn't blinking and my CEL is staying on - does that rule out the imobilzer? It was having a hard time starting for about a week. Usually second key turn would get it going but had to have it towed home yesterday. It isn't getting fuel but I don't think it's the fuel pump.

I doubt it is your immobilizer. What code is it throwing?

 

[Kanterror]

Not throwing any codes. It's just the CEL, battery symbol, and A/T oil light stays on when key is in ON position. From what I'm reading it should turn off? I've never noticed a flashing security symbol ever or where to look. I have a 98 LC. As far as the horn goes the forums say usually that's water getting into the kickdown area on drivers side. I couldn't find any wetness there but there is a lot going on down there too. I would think a failing fuel pump would leave me stranded while driving but once it actually starts it runs just like normal - it just now won't start either but cranks very strong.

 

[Mauser]

Not throwing any codes. It's just the CEL, battery symbol, and A/T oil light stays on when key is in ON position. From what I'm reading it should turn off? I've never noticed a flashing security symbol ever or where to look. I have a 98 LC. As far as the horn goes the forums say usually that's water getting into the kickdown area on drivers side. I couldn't find any wetness there but there is a lot going on down there too. I would think a failing fuel pump would leave me stranded while driving but once it actually starts it runs just like normal - it just now won't start either but cranks very strong.

What are you using to read codes?

 

[Kanterror]

What are you using to read codes?

I'm using an Actron OBD II PocketScan. It has read codes from the truck before when I had a knock sensor issue in the past.

 

[Mauser]

I'm using an Actron OBD II PocketScan. It has read codes from the truck before when I had a knock sensor issue in the past.

That is really odd you are getting a light and no codes. You might try pulling the ecu and open it up to see if there is any water.

 

[ramangain]

Not throwing any codes. It's just the CEL, battery symbol, and A/T oil light stays on when key is in ON position. From what I'm reading it should turn off? I've never noticed a flashing security symbol ever or where to look. I have a 98 LC. As far as the horn goes the forums say usually that's water getting into the kickdown area on drivers side. I couldn't find any wetness there but there is a lot going on down there too. I would think a failing fuel pump would leave me stranded while driving but once it actually starts it runs just like normal - it just now won't start either but cranks very strong.

I *think* this was diagnosed in another post as fraying of some wires due to an incorrect wire routing after a timing belt job. Check any relevant in the last week to see if it sends you in the right direction?

 

[Kanterror]

I haven't done any electrical work or major jobs on the truck in a while. When the truck starts the CEL does not stay on which I think is why there aren't any codes. Just like the A/T temp light goes off once started too.

I'm going to try the paperclip jump because like I said it isn't getting fuel. When I spray starting fluid it tries to start so it has me thinking the EFI isn't sending a signal or something. But if the paperclip doesn't work I don't know where else to look besides fuel pump.

 

[ramangain]

I misunderstood, sorry

 

[Kanterror]

Did some more work. Tried a 30amp fuse and a paperclip. New 20amp fuse didn't change behavior. However, the 30amp and paperclip on first key start actually tried to start so I'm guessing I'm on the right track but the easy fixes didn't quite work for me.

 

[ramangain]

I believe the permanent fix is a new fuse box due to arcing in the lower fuse holder connections that physically warps things over time. Yes/no?