Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX (1 Viewer)

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How do you know whether you need a body mount chop?

My tires don’t rub and I’ve got a fat fingers width at the closest spot

15 offset and kenda 35x11.50r17…true 34.5” when weighted on the vehicle.

For your fitment and offset, I think you might be fine against the body mount.

The test I use is to trail brake into a turn. That is having some steering dialed in and brake while listening for any rub.

Having more caster dialed in can also help pull the tire forward away from the BM. May want to avoid UCAs if you don't need it as that pulls the tire rearward towards the BM.
 
How do you know whether you need a body mount chop?

My tires don’t rub and I’ve got a fat fingers width at the closest spot

15 offset and kenda 35x11.50r17…true 34.5” when weighted on the vehicle.

go into low, and turn full lock to lock. See if you hit anything
 
Spare tire

I won't go down the path of rear swingouts for several reasons. So I need to maintain a workable spare. I continue to be amazed at what the 200-series can fit.

My situation is a bit unique in that I have a 12.5 gallon LRA aux tank in the boot. This pushes down the spare by 1". I wasn't happy with how far my previous 33.2" x 12.3" tire hung down in combination with the subtank.

Ideally, I would have a matching spare as I did with 33s, but because of diameter and width concerns, led me to use a non-matching skinny - 275/65R20LT, specs 34.1"x11". Versus 34.5"x12.5" for the full fat 35x12.5 tires. The spare is still a full performance tire, so in the off chance I need it, I can still continue on whatever trip without concern. Those without a tank can get additional width accommodations by removing the bracket on the leading edge, and bending the tube bracket upwards, that comes off the rearmost frame member.

Diameter concerns to the 4x4 system shouldn't be an issue as they're close enough - 609 to 602 revs per mile, or about 1% diff. Whatever difference could easily be made up for in inflation pressure.

Fit in the boot is tight, but good enough. This pic is with the suspension in full droop, so there is the possibility of contact with the panhard bar on extreme compression. I'll check later but I think it'll fit with clearance.

View attachment 2448982

Diameter comparison. Hard pressed to tell which tire is the shorter (hint: far right)
View attachment 2448985

Spare in place
View attachment 2449003
Out of curiosity, did you do any tire pressure vs height tests with the 34.1” tire and 34.5” tire?

Like does a 35 aired down to 30 psi vs a 34.1 aired up to 60 psi workout to be the same height or something similar?
 
Out of curiosity, did you do any tire pressure vs height tests with the 34.1” tire and 34.5” tire?

Like does a 35 aired down to 30 psi vs a 34.1 aired up to 60 psi workout to be the same height or something similar?

Coming from the sports car world with AWD and staggered fitments, one of the strategies is to look at the manufacturers specs. They've done that work with a revs per mile spec based on standard inflation pressure. If those numbers are within 2-3%, good enough.

For my specific tire sizes, it's 609 to 602 revs per mile, or about 1% diff.
 
Adding here as a reference but I initially thought I could get away without a BMC on my “runs small” 35x12.50 KO2s at 25mm offset but I’m glad I did it. I did what others have done and just notched the mount and pounded it back maybe 1/2”

IMG_4685.jpeg


Enhance 🔎

IMG_4686.jpeg
 
View attachment 3557119Got some 35x12.5r17 KO2’s fitted with mrw314 17x7.5 methods in the titanium gloss color. Haven’t stuffed the tires yet but BMC might need to be done. I just followed Teck’s guide on the rest of the fender and no rubbing issues currently mall crawling around

Woof!! Looking mighty fine there.
 
View attachment 3557119Got some 35x12.5r17 KO2’s fitted with mrw314 17x7.5 methods in the titanium gloss color. Haven’t stuffed the tires yet but BMC might need to be done. I just followed Teck’s guide on the rest of the fender and no rubbing issues currently mall crawling around

The 314s are 18mm right? My 25mm 701 just barely clear at full lock/stuff and I have a BMC.
 
View attachment 3557119Got some 35x12.5r17 KO2’s fitted with mrw314 17x7.5 methods in the titanium gloss color. Haven’t stuffed the tires yet but BMC might need to be done. I just followed Teck’s guide on the rest of the fender and no rubbing issues currently mall crawling around

Isn't the minimum wheel width for these tires 8.5"? Did you install them yourself?
 
Isn't the minimum wheel width for these tires 8.5"? Did you install them yourself?
Tire shop installed them didn’t seem to care about it and I’m not the only one on here running these rims on 12.5 wides. Doesn’t bother me i feel the only time that would really matter is if you were towing heavy and pressuring them up to there maximum rating which I’ll never do with this I have an f-250 for that but normal daily driving should be no issue.
 
Welp, its time for me to buy new tires. I am currently sitting on Toyo MT 275/70/18's (33"x11.0") and am trying to decide on the size. Currently looking at the Toyo MT 34"x11.5" or the 35"x11.5". I have the Toyota Tundra TRD Pro BBS wheels and already bought the 1" spacers to put on. I'm fine with the liner reconfigure and am able to make the BMC cuts, just wondering if I'll run into anything else unexpected. I've been lurking a long time on this and it's time to get off the pot!
 
Welp, its time for me to buy new tires. I am currently sitting on Toyo MT 275/70/18's (33"x11.0") and am trying to decide on the size. Currently looking at the Toyo MT 34"x11.5" or the 35"x11.5". I have the Toyota Tundra TRD Pro BBS wheels and already bought the 1" spacers to put on. I'm fine with the liner reconfigure and am able to make the BMC cuts, just wondering if I'll run into anything else unexpected. I've been lurking a long time on this and it's time to get off the pot!

11.5” will likely not require a BMC. Before going to 12.5” I ran 295/70/18 on stock wheels + 1” spacer and method wheels and 25mm and had plenty of room against the body mound.
 
Welp, its time for me to buy new tires. I am currently sitting on Toyo MT 275/70/18's (33"x11.0") and am trying to decide on the size. Currently looking at the Toyo MT 34"x11.5" or the 35"x11.5". I have the Toyota Tundra TRD Pro BBS wheels and already bought the 1" spacers to put on. I'm fine with the liner reconfigure and am able to make the BMC cuts, just wondering if I'll run into anything else unexpected. I've been lurking a long time on this and it's time to get off the pot!
If for your spare tire you purchase a used one with around 5k miles already on it, it may fit in the spare tire well. A new one is not likely to fit.
 
I'm not sure how far off topic this is going to be, maybe it needs it's own thread. I'm on skinny 35s, on icon wheels with +25 mm offset, 10mm spacers up front and 20mm spacers in the rear springs. I've got the sensors maxed out all the way around. Had it aligned at the beginning of the year when i installed the wheels/tires. Just had it aligned again because I had an LCA cam bolt failure and decided to replace them with the SPCs along with brand new LCAs because the old ones were shot (130k currently). New globes and new fluid as well, as of 8k miles ago.

This is all to preface what I'm asking about, which is rear suspension. Is it normal for it to feel a little unsettled in the rear on 35s and sensors maxed out? Mainly when I go over bumps at speed, the rear tends to jostle around a bit instead of just absorbing the bump alone with no other drama like the front does. From what I can tell, the trailing arms and panhard bushings seem to be ok.

It doesn't matter if it's in Sport or Comfort, it still gets a bit unsettled. It's worse if I'm going around a bend or turning onto a street that has a bump mid way through the turn. You can feel the rear hop over the opposite direction of the turn a tad when it hits the bump. That's the best way I can describe it. Like an unloaded 2500HD pickup. My gx470 on the same 35s on a 3 inch lift did the same until I leveled out the panhard bar (the panhard as well as the links in the rear were adjuatable). But the angle of the panhard on the LX doesn't seem to be that drastic with the sensors maxed out and in N mode. I'm hoping this is either "normal" for the mods or perhaps the bushings are shot and juat need to be replaced. They aren't cracked from what I can tell and seem to have the 'normal' play when you shove them around with a prybar. Maybe they should be a lot stiffer than they are and I just don't know it by feel since I'm not familiar with how hard they are supposed to be.

Thanks for any replies. If I need to delete this post and start a new thread I can. Just figured that the question was semi related and I can't find any threads that are specifically for rear suspension that this question would fit well into (most are about mods or messing with AHC etc).
 
The description you give does sound like the effect of the panhard bar at too much of an angle and needing either of the brackets available for it. You may want to share a photo of the angle it sits at and others can comment.
 
The description you give does sound like the effect of the panhard bar at too much of an angle and needing either of the brackets available for it. You may want to share a photo of the angle it sits at and others can comment.
Here is an image. Ground is just a tad uneven. But this is about the angle it's always at. Didn't know there was a panhard correction kit for these.

20240930_102402.jpg
 
Here is an image. Ground is just a tad uneven. But this is about the angle it's always at. Didn't know there was a panhard correction kit for these.

View attachment 3738813
There are two kits that I’m aware of.
&
You’re correct, it doesn’t look too bad in the image but I think most would agree, if the sensor is maxed out, it could probably benefit from a PCK.
 
There are two kits that I’m aware of.
&
You’re correct, it doesn’t look too bad in the image but I think most would agree, if the sensor is maxed out, it could probably benefit from a PCK.

Shoot, I have a gx470 weld on kit from eimkeith sitting in a bag here in my office, but it's for the 470. I ended up getting the bolt on one instead from dr. Kdss and installed that. I'm sure it's different though for the 200 series. Still though, I wonder if the angle is severe enough to cause the rear end 'swing/hop' I'm experiencing, to warrant a correction kit. I wish there was a more definitive way to find out....other than throwing parts at it lol
 
I'm not sure how far off topic this is going to be, maybe it needs it's own thread. I'm on skinny 35s, on icon wheels with +25 mm offset, 10mm spacers up front and 20mm spacers in the rear springs. I've got the sensors maxed out all the way around. Had it aligned at the beginning of the year when i installed the wheels/tires. Just had it aligned again because I had an LCA cam bolt failure and decided to replace them with the SPCs along with brand new LCAs because the old ones were shot (130k currently). New globes and new fluid as well, as of 8k miles ago.

This is all to preface what I'm asking about, which is rear suspension. Is it normal for it to feel a little unsettled in the rear on 35s and sensors maxed out? Mainly when I go over bumps at speed, the rear tends to jostle around a bit instead of just absorbing the bump alone with no other drama like the front does. From what I can tell, the trailing arms and panhard bushings seem to be ok.

It doesn't matter if it's in Sport or Comfort, it still gets a bit unsettled. It's worse if I'm going around a bend or turning onto a street that has a bump mid way through the turn. You can feel the rear hop over the opposite direction of the turn a tad when it hits the bump. That's the best way I can describe it. Like an unloaded 2500HD pickup. My gx470 on the same 35s on a 3 inch lift did the same until I leveled out the panhard bar (the panhard as well as the links in the rear were adjuatable). But the angle of the panhard on the LX doesn't seem to be that drastic with the sensors maxed out and in N mode. I'm hoping this is either "normal" for the mods or perhaps the bushings are shot and juat need to be replaced. They aren't cracked from what I can tell and seem to have the 'normal' play when you shove them around with a prybar. Maybe they should be a lot stiffer than they are and I just don't know it by feel since I'm not familiar with how hard they are supposed to be.

Thanks for any replies. If I need to delete this post and start a new thread I can. Just figured that the question was semi related and I can't find any threads that are specifically for rear suspension that this question would fit well into (most are about mods or messing with AHC etc).
What psi are you running your tires?
 

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