FIRST POST: PLEASE CHECK MY WORK (1 Viewer)

[flyingmonkey]

@flyingmonkey Yeah they definately needed replacing. I heard a rubbing noise a few days ago so I popped the wheel off and saw they were in bad shape. As far as I know I didnt use 100 series pads. Can I? Should I? I just went to Autozone and bought some mid-range (duralast gold) for a 96. Im gonna take a look at the back pads today, and if needed change those out next payday.

Addiction is right, I cant stop thinking about what to do next. Probably get some slotted rotors and performance pads sooner or later. Ive been watching a bunch of overland videos on youtube and think its badass how some guys can repair their rig out in the middle of nowhere. I figured before I start thinking about mods, Ill learn all the basic maintenace stuff so Im not SOL in the city, much less the dessert.

100 series pads will fit on the front. You don't NEED to use them, they're just thicker and last longer. Initially you won't be able to get the anti squeal shin in there, but you can wait until the pads wear down and put it in if yours start to squeal. Mine squeal sometimes, it's just that I lost my shims so I have to deal with it.

 

[SmokingRocks]

At every fluid and/or brake maintenance, I also replace the brake fluid at the reservoir (I empty the reservoir with a manual pump worth less than ten bucks), inspect and clean the reservoir filter. Fill up to max and done. Needless to say, I started the practice with a first thorough flushing of the entire system to assure a clean starting base-but everybody would agree this ain't any fun.
Good quality brake fluid isn't expensive. By frequently replacing almost half of the total system capacity the resulting dilution maintains a reliable and clean system and widens the frequency of flushing.
I drive quite a lot through mountain roads. This is a heavy rig, therefore the brakes are set for a work-out quite often. After doing this frequent PM I have never experienced fading-which I did before.
I understand for some this could be an overkill. But isn't complicated. And cheap.
Hope this helps

Cheers

Not sure I understand this. I've always done a complete flush Yellow to Blue then Blue to Yellow. Personally I don't think that just exchanging the fluid in the reservoir does anything useful. We are required to do full flushes with our race car each year atleast.

The fluid gets stressed at the caliper due to heat not so much at the master cylinder. Also the fluid at the calipers doesn't get returned to the reservoir, so by draining and filling the reservoir you're just costing yourself money with no appreciable benefit. In Fact you probably open yourself up to introducing air into the system.

 

[warezdog]

When I did my master and booster last month I had to swap the reservoir to the new master and I could not believe the gunk sitting in the bottom of it.

 

[Tools R Us]

Agree, kinda, maybe, not always?

Not sure I understand this. I've always done a complete flush Yellow to Blue then Blue to Yellow. Personally I don't think that just exchanging the fluid in the reservoir does anything useful. We are required to do full flushes with our race car each year atleast.

The fluid gets stressed at the caliper due to heat not so much at the master cylinder.

For a track car, agree 100%, wheeler not so much. The biggest issue is moisture absorption, happens at the reservoir.

Also the fluid at the calipers doesn't get returned to the reservoir,

With use, it does. Try this; with low fluid level in the reservoir, have a helper slowly pump the brakes and watch the reservoir, when the pedal is down will see the level lower, when released, there will be little fountains from the return ports. Simply changing the fluid in the reservoir will make a significant difference in the overall fluid condition, especially if done when pads are being changed, calipers are compressed.

so by draining and filling the reservoir you're just costing yourself money with no appreciable benefit. In Fact you probably open yourself up to introducing air into the system.

Dot3 fluid is cheap, change it often. Obviously cleaning, flushing the system is the correct method, but there isn't always time, often the issue is found when not included in the job. We have found; simply cleaning the reservoir and new fluid improves all of the fluid condition, it's much lighter when we get around to the full flush. Changing the fluid in the reservoir every 6mo or so, is simple, quick, cheap and makes a big difference. As long as the pedal isn't pressed, can remove the reservoir, clean it with water, dry and refill without introducing any air. A lot of them we have been seeing look like this, getting the swamp out is a good thing?

 

[SmokingRocks]

Good to know. Thanks

 

[Howard705]

Easy-done for years-all makes usually works-open bleeder-let it gravity bleed-maybe give it a few gentle pumps to start-watch fluid in reservoir-let it drain about 90%-(past dividers to frt/rear) top up-watch for clean fluid to come out-do other wheel on axle-keep fluid up in m/c

 

[fj80pb]

Tools put it far more eloquently that I possibly could . I've been replacing the brake fluid at the reservoir, in average, every 6-8 month.
As per the quick-flushing (thanks @warezdog), I will take a look-most definitively.
Cheers