First post - Driving 5 hours to look at an 83 FJ60 this weekend (1 Viewer)

[MedMisfit]

First post. Fishing for advice.

I have a verbal agreement with the seller for an early 80's FJ60. Clean title. Has passed California smog in the last year. Seller has been upfront and helpful with all my questions. I plan on driving the 5 hours to take a final look at the rig this weekend. Seller has agreed that I can back out if I see any red flags. Based on what I have seen for sale lately, the seller's pics show a clean rig for the price and age. Typical rust on the driver rear wheel well and panel. Some slight dents here and there. Bumpers have the end caps but show some dents. Frame/C-channel near the spare tire area shows surface rust. Seller has sent start up videos...for 300k miles it sounds good. Idle RPMs a tick under 1000 on the gauge. Oil pressure and volts look standard. E-brake is not hooked up currently. Sagging headliner in the cargo area. Cracked dash. Glass is all good. Most of these initial issues seem typical?

Seller says it stops fine. Does have a vibration in the brakes. Brakes would be on top of my list if I get this rig home.

Searched the VIN and it appears the fuel tank recall has not been addressed. Might be too late to get in on this recall? Is it really needed?

In the past 6 months that I have been searching for a project FJ60, this is by far the best one I have found under $8000. For 2022/2023 prices, this seems like a good price for a entry 60-series project?

Reading some of the other posts from new FJ60 owners, I'm starting to think these rigs are money pits...is that the general consensus? Just baselining and replacing seals etc. can cost $1000 plus? I'm not afraid to get in there and turn wrench...I'm really looking forward to that. But do these rigs really eat 1000-dollar bills?

Like so many others, this will be a short commute (7 minutes) daily-ish driver, grocery getter and possible the remote access camping rig.

If it all works out, I plan on driving this from northern California to southern Oregon, about 5 hours. Or hit up some friends with a trailer...words of wisdom are welcome.

Looking forward to becoming an active member here. Thanks!

Just posting the most concerning pic for now. Worst of the rust.

 

[OSS]

These are only money pits if you spend money on them….
Yeah, sure, if you wanted to restore/refurbish/replace everything, you could spend $50K on stuff and services (new engine anyone?) or if you just want to keep it running- spend a few thousand or less.

Every one of these has some issue or another, some minor, some not so minor, so don’t expect everything to be perfect. If you’re living in a smog test state, then that really is the Achilles heel of these old trucks. Yes they still pass - but you’ve got to educate yourself about all the smog equipment. The Toyota Emissions manual is your bible and you should eventually memorize it.

These cruisers are the end of an era of simpler times. Something to cherish. The new vehicles of today are insanely complicated with 3 miles of wires in them. Pretty much if anything goes wrong with them - it’s a trip to the dealership.

The greatest or maybe 2nd greatest thing about the FJ60 is tnat it’s DIY friendly. An average guy/gal with not much experience can work on these and fix - everything.

(that bit of rust on the wheel well arch is very common. They all get like that eventually unless they were garage queens)

 

[MrMacdugal]

What he said...^^ Now go buy it

 

[SteveH]

But do these rigs really eat 1000-dollar bills?

A vehicle is a series of subsystems - brakes, cooling, suspension, body, axles, transmission, engine, glass, seat, interior, wiring/electrical, etc. If every one of these subsystems has been ritually neglected or abused for years by people who 'just drove it until something fell off', then yes - it's a money pit. Before you buy it, go through a checklist of what needs to be done.

A co-worker just took her '17 Suburban (134K miles) to the dealer where she bought it a few months ago. Needs a transmission, shocks, sensors, seals, etc. - the estimate was around $14K total. There's a all-at-once, brand-new money pit. An FJ60 should be a vastly slower-to-accrue money pit

 

[g-man]

If the fuel tank was replaced there should be a sticker on the firewall near the vin tag. Mine is just a faded silver sticker hard to read anything. Not to late to get the work done but you may have to search around to find a dealer willing to work with you.

Make sure the engine is good. I mean, I've seen stories where an engine was just rebuilt and didn't make the trip home for the new owner. I had another guy local to me that bought a 60 drove it home and a week later the plugs fouled. He changed them, and a week later they fouled again. Probably a cracked head EDIT (or oil blowing by the rings, or valve issues) they fouled to the point the engine started to miss. Most likely the original owner passed it off on him without making him aware. For this reason I would pull a spark plug and if it looked brand new I'd be skeptical that the owner is hiding something. But if it's just dry carbon on it ...that's more likely what it should look like. Maybe make an appointment with a local (to the seller) garage so you can get it on a lift and have them check it out (before you hand over your money or even agree to a price) The rear cross tube that the rear shocks mount to often rust out. Also the inner frame esp around the muffler. Look for delamination at the open C channels at the back of the frame (inner) Look for rusted out floors around the front of the rear wheel wells and where the front doors meet the floor. Any rust in the roofs or pillars is pretty scary ...lots of work but can be fixed. All these things affect price.

Cracked dash pads and the drivers side seat tear along with worn carpet are pretty standard.

Expensive to repair...yes, certainly especially if you are PAYING someone else.

They are tanks and keep going even with a lot of stuff broken. So in a way you can hopefully work on it as you go. Factory service manuals are here on the forum available and free to download. LOTS of experience here to help you too. Buy it for what it is. A gas guzzling but pretty cool vehicle that is sort of antiquated at this point. Don't plan on using it for a commuter. But it's a good second vehicle for short trips, camping, hunting, and especially 4wheeling.

Mine broke down on me 4 or 5 times and left me stranded. Always it was something inexpensive. Stuck thermostat, froze starter, failed ignition module. locked up smog pump that thru the fan belt. But thats over 17 years and over 100k miles of driving.

Watch your gauges going home esp the temp and the oil pressure. Let the engine cool down and check the oil and coolant when you take a roadside lunch. Have extra oil and 50/50 coolant with you in case.

Baseline and seals costing $1k ...no way. Try and find some help here on the forum. There is a clubhouse tab at the top of the page, find a group local to you and ask for help. You'll be surprised to see that someone close by is willing to help you sort it.

 

[MedMisfit]

All great info! Thanks. Will post some updates if all goes as planned.

 

[bhsdriller]

You mentioned smog so assuming you have to smog it for where you live?
I wouldn't trust a CA seller saying it passed last year. I'd require a new test, even better if they can make an appointment the day you are going to look at it.
They're like $60 just take it off the sale price

 

[MedMisfit]

Thankfully, no smog in Oregon for a vehicle that age. I looked up the VIN on the CA smog website. It hasn't passed everytime it was tested, but it did pass this last time.

 

[OSS]

but it did pass this last time.

More likely it did get a smog a certificate this last time.
Big difference between getting a (fraudulent) smog certificate and actually passing a test legitimately.

Normally I’d let it slide but — “failed every time it tested” then “received a smog certificate just before selling” does not instill confidence.
Luckily you’re in Oregon.

 

[bhsdriller]

We need more pics

 

[MedMisfit]

Just to clarify. It has recieved a smog certificate each time it was tested dating back to 2012. Prior to that, there were a few failed tests.

Packing extra belts, metric sockets/wrenches and fluids after this post.

 

[g-man]

That's not a bad starting point at all. Go for it!

 

[MedMisfit]

Done deal. 300 mile drive home and it didn't break a sweat. Was able to keep up with traffic on the I5 freeway north to Oregon.

Is it good luck to find a 1983 penny when tearing out the carpets in a 1983 FJ60?

Next post should probably be an introduction.

15-year old son and I removed the carpet today.