First Landcruiser: 1985 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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ozarkmud

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Hi everyone,

I'm in Albuquerque and bought an '85 FJ60 from an awesome Russian guy who I think might be on this forum.

The FJ is running, driving, stopping, etc. But it is a bit rough and hasn't been driven a lot in a while. I have a few tools with me but sadly forgot to bring my multimeter. Will be drivinig this FJ about 380 miles to Van Horn to register it in Texas. From there, will head up to Northern Colorado where I have the rest of my tools. Eventually, she'll take me to Idaho where I'd like to settle down.

It's mostly stock. Has a few things like a smog pump pulley stub. Mismatched doors, salvage title, etc. But the head was rebuilt somewhat recently.

When I first drove the truck a month ago, it had a high idle but good power. Since then, the seller retarded the timing a bit (which brought the idle right down), but it would barely pull above 2,500 RPM. I had to buy a 12mm wrench in town and advanced the timing a bit. Power is back for the most part, but idle is a bit on the high side. I would like to fix it up correctly, but correct-enough might have to do for now.

There's no obviously bad vacuum hoses that I can see. I don't know if the idle stop screw is just set too high or if something else is going on. Pulling the choke out when it's warm won't kill it, but it will bog. It does look like the choke is opening/closing as it should.

Albuquerque is at 5,000 feet if I'm not mistaken. It sounds like these will advance the timing at altitude? Not sure how that is done and if it's acting up or not. I don't have a timing light to sanity check my settings. Also seems there's no points, so no points gap to worry about.

The turn signals are flashing fast and it looks like it's the right bulb in all of them. They do flash, just too fast. Sounds like I can open up the flasher and make some adjustments.

Voltage is weird. I don't know how accurate it is on the dash, but with the headlights on, it seems to say about 10 volts. It is close to 12 if I have no lights on and the truck running. Don't know if the alternator is weak or if there's thin wires, corroded fuses, etc. Seller sent me off with a ton of FSM books to mail back once I make it, so at least I have that going for me.

Front right axle seal is leaking, not sure how fast. Imagine it's enough to contaminate the brake pad, but seems to stop okay enough for now.

All around, a very cool and fun truck. I'm trying to sell my '95 Tacoma 4x4 today/tomorrow so interesting timing on it all.

Lots more I could write, but with limited tools and time, what should I do to help improve my odds for the trip ahead?

Was able to pull 65 steady last night in 4th, but was using most of the throttle.

I appreciate any advice you can offer.

-Teran
 
God Speed Brother!
 
I would say buy some cheap tools from Home Depot or Lowe’s. And start pulling plugs and clean them. Tighten down your battery cables. Buy some carb cleaner and start spraying the vacuum hoses to see if there is any leaks. Check HAC see if it is working. Buy a cheap fuel filter for now then replace with OEM.
Good luck!
 
Since you're on your road trip home, don't mess with it. The idle isn't important when driving your distance. So what if it's high.
Just make sure there's oil in oil pan and drive it GENTLY home 60-65 mph.

Don't worry about the volt gauge in the cab, they're all inaccurate. It's more like a combo volt/Amp gauge as you've noticed. The more stuff you turn on, the father the needle drops.

It'll get you where you want to go, just take it easy. Right lane
 
Thank you!

I think the burning smell might have been the fan pulling down the torn and sagging insulation under the hood and having it slowly cook. It was in rough shape so I removed it. Seems like the smell is gone, was pretty strong before.

Charging is good, you're right about the voltmeter. Looks like my low/high switch is bad, only giving high beam (with the high beam light always on) and the horn switch is not working. Will have to correct those and then I can get it safety inspected in Texas. The lights flash fast but I think they will still accept it, hopefully.

Are the headlights common enough to be found at Autozone? They seem pretty dim even on the high beam. I might want to replace them as the sealed beams on my Tacoma were working but extremely dim, the replacement was about twice as bright and just a standard bulb. Seems like they get weaker as they age/are used. I also wonder if there's some voltage drop at the headlights which might contribute to the dimness.

I think I found the idle stop screw. I backed it out and it seemed to make no or almost no difference. Unfortunately, I think I took it out too far and it vibrated loose. But, truck still runs without it so some things are definitely off. The half inch ID or so ports on the air filter canister (one pre-filter, one post-filter) were both open. Looks like it would have been breathing unfiltered air. It has a KN filter on it, but it seems really old and stiff. Not certain it's sealing well top and bottom, but not a big concern for now.

Will take a look at the HAC: High Altitude Comp (HAC) Valve

Sold the Tacoma and got my tires swapped to the FJ.

I appreciate the help!
 
My turn signals flash fast too, I attribute it to the aftermarket flasher that’s installed. On OEM one is more money than I want to spend to slow them down, which is probably why it has an aftermarket one in the first place.
 
Ok, having some luck with my last inspection items. The low beams and horn.

Looks like the horn ground contact isn't protruding enough to contact the wheel. I can just ground that with a gator clip and get it to sound.

I think the RG (low beam) was broken off the contact or it was dirty. The high beam (RY) was also weak and came right off its solder joint without even trying. So I can use the headlight switch (which does activate the relay) and a DPST switch to control low or high. It's not ideal but I'm happy enough about it for now.

So will run to Walmart, hopefully get enough to wire this together, and take off for Van Horn.

Still don't know if the HAC is working. I do think my charcoal canister is clogged as even in this cool weather the gas cap is holding back a ton of pressure when I take it off. I'm also quite curious to see what kind of MPG I'm getting.
 
Ok, pictures time in that case.

WLJeua.jpeg


iyia9a.jpeg


Interesting day today. First long maiden voyage. Got 15MPG one tank, 13 the next. Idle is still really high, 1,300 or so.

Main belt broke while on the interstate. Tension seemed fine before, not sure if the belt was old or what. I used the A/C belt which got me alternator and main pump. Really clever that they made that belt fit the essentials if needed. Bought a backup belt as that A/C belt was looking pretty rough. Is that common practice with any other motors to have the accessory belts able to do double duty?

Having the main belt off the power steering hasn't made any difference in steering feel. I was already suspecting it wasn't working. It's actually pretty light steering for being unpowerd, I think I'll leave it that way. And the A/C was out anyways.

Very hot by my right foot, like there's a lot of heat coming off the transmission. Also get a smell like burning brakes or clutch some of the time. I was able to cruise at 70+ (as per GPS) most of the way. Really love the truck.

Do you know what the official color was that this Land Cruiser came with? Is it a taupe? I can't really tell.
 
My climate control has the factory white cover to direct the light. The rear cargo light bulb in my 60 is actually larger than the dome and climate control. I need to replace the whole housing. @4Cruisers do you have a rear cargo lighting assembly?
Main belt broke while on the interstate. Tension seemed fine before, not sure if the belt was old or what. I used the A/C belt which got me alternator and main pump. Really clever that they made that belt fit the essentials if needed. Bought a backup belt as that A/C belt was looking pretty rough. Is that common practice with any other motors to have the accessory belts able to do double duty?
That happened to me many years ago driving my '84 FJ60 north on I-25 about 150 miles south of Albuquerque, was on the road again in ~30 minutes. I stopped in Socorro to get a new belt but didn't replace it until I got home.
 
If your gas cap is holding back pressure and you think the canister is suspect... leave the cap out for the rest of your trip.
 
If your gas cap is holding back pressure and you think the canister is suspect... leave the cap out for the rest of your trip.
I don't remember if anyone suggested switching the hoses at the charcoal canister - temporary fix.
 
Spent .22 shell fixes the horn pin in a pinch. I think you can still get the horn pin from toyota

Ah, that's a good idea. I was hoping to avoid taking off the steering wheel and then recentering it. I've done that on other vehicles before and it never seems to go all that well.

Last night I rigged up a button for the horn and a switch for low and high beams. My driver's side headlight is nice and tight but the passenger side one has a lot of play and I haven't yet figured out why.

If your gas cap is holding back pressure and you think the canister is suspect... leave the cap out for the rest of your trip.

I plugged the line going to the intake and left the gas one open. Not sure if anything is running better, but the pressure did seem pretty excessive.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I definitely would like to time it properly and get the idle down, but am growing more confident. Hopefully will get to do a little bit of 4x4 today. Will be my first time offroad with a solid front axle.
 
Sounds like it could be the 4E9 paint color? Beige Metallic? Not sure what to put on the form for Texas, I guess beige or tan.



 
Not sure why so many people say these are underpowered. I was having no issues cruising at 75, even up hills at 4k+ feet.

Got a horrible noise and tracked it down to the alternator. Pulley/shaft bearing is completely shot. Found a place in town that will replace the bearing, so taking it there in the morning. Also noticed the (now inactive) power steering pump bearing is shot as well.
 

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