First FJ60, is there a 12 step program? (1 Viewer)

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, the air rail can be removed and holes in head plugged.
Remove large rubber hose that connected ABV to air rail. No need to cap open fitting on bottom of ABV. Remove small vacuum hose from top of ABV, which will force ABVinto bypass position, directing all air to go into exh downpipe instead of the (removed) air injection rail.

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks for clarifying things Jim! Much appreciated as I would never have guessed how to bypass the air injection rail. Looking forward to your cap/plug set.

Last night I got the manifold off with a buddy's help. I didn't notice much warp after measuring with a straight edge, so I just cleaned up and painted with Dupli-Color engine/exhaust paint.

manifold:

valve cover:

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement.

 

[vszUnclear]

I got my manifold back on w/ new gasket but actually had to reinstall the old carb since the rebuilt carb I bought turned out to be for a different vehicle (vac ports different, fuel line didn't fit). As soon as I got her back on the road I noticed a lack of acceleration even though the rpms went up as I gave it gas. That is, I can rev the engine fine, but it doesn't translate into forward movement. It's getting progressively worse and I almost couldn't get it moving on a flat road today (barely got home). I searched around and found a thread that describes my symptoms to a tee:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/564754-little-no-acceleration.html
In this thread the culprit was a bad clutch.

Anyone have advice on where I should start investigating? My clutch has pressure when I depress it. I get the lack of acceleration on all gears. I get the burning smell described in the thread above too.

Thanks for the help.

 

[vszUnclear]

Hesitation / jerking after Desmog

I replaced my clutch with the Aisin CKT-032 clutch kit which solved the above problem, and since then I've been thinking about a desmog and finally this weekend I took the plunge. I studied "My Desmog Thread" the "How to desmog" PDF, and the various stock/desmog vac diagrams a bunch before the job.

It actually wasn't that bad. I decided to keep the PCV -> EGR inlet (chopped and JB welded pipe shut) and used an EGR exhaust block off plate. I found a big exhaust leak on the EGR exhaust due to a missing stud . I devaned my smog pump and remounted.

The only "oh crap" moment was with the BSVS(1), when I broke a nipple :whoops: but I JB Welded it back on. I hope that goop didn't clog the inside.

Anyway, she idles smoother and the whole truck is much quieter. Amazing how much better she runs when cold especially.

My problem is that on acceleration at about 1500-1800 RPM I'm getting some weird bursts of hesitation followed by minor lurching, basically jerky on acceleration. I read some threads that this could be a fuel delivery issue. My fuel float sits above the half mark (as before the desmog). I didn't adjust the carb after the desmog or adjust the timing and my dissy recurve is on order with Jim C.

Has anyone experienced this after a desmog? Does carb adjustment help? I've never set the timing before so I'll need to research how to do that.

Any other possibilities as to what could be causing the hesitation?

 

[FJ40Jim]

The symptom is caused by the coasting decel fuel cut system cutting fuel at 1800RPM, even though the vehicle is just cruising, not actually coasting. Something is not right w/ vac hose routing, or the vac switch is missing or...

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks for the tip Jim, I will investigate the decel fuel cut switch. I'll start by checking function according to the emissions manual (pg 3-45, 46).

During the desmog, I removed the fuel cut switch from the stock bracket and hooked it up directly to the fuel cut port on the carb (per the diagrams and "How to" PDF).

Do you see anything off in the attached image (sorry for the sun glare)? I've labeled what I believe to by my fuel cut switch. I'm wondering if I used too short of a hose and it's kinking enough to cause trouble.

Thank you again for your help.

 

[vszUnclear]

Based on Jim's tip, I think I just discovered my problem. My fuel cut switch is not ground. Notice in the pic above my switch is not threaded to anything, which apparently is needed for ground:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8095492&postcount=22

Will try it tonight after work. I'd like to heap my thanks on Jim for his every contribution to this site, spending time even with green newbies like me. I've learned an awful lot from you, sir!

 

[FJ40Jim]

Based on Jim's tip, I think I just discovered my problem. My fuel cut switch is not grounded. Notice in the pic above my switch is not threaded to anything, which apparently is needed for ground:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8095492&postcount=22

Congats, you figgerd it out.
You win &

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks Jim! I'll take that , heck I'll take the too. Confirmed, I threaded the decel fuel cut and it's working great now. Wow, what a difference the desmog and exhaust leak fixes made in my case.

Pics of the aftermath: http://imgur.com/a/Y8vQd

I want to say thanks to mud user borick who wrote up the How to Desmog a 2F PDF. While I studied the mud threads and diagrams a lot, on desmog day I used that guide to step through everything.

Still to do:
- recurved dissy from Jim
- better organize my vac lines and remaining valves
- the exhaust pipe that runs from the ASV under the brake booster is still there, just plugged with a wine cork wrapped in duct tape.
- de-cat

Some comedy for you guys, my EGR cooler was full of ... smooth black pebbles. Don't ask me how they got there, must have been the PO

Anyway, glad to have the bulk of this job behind me. And most importantly, she's running great!

 

[SmartyPants]

I love a happy ending.

 

[gregnash]

Was going to say, looking at your pic I could see that the fuel cut was not ground, glad you figured it out quick though! It is amazing how these trucks run without all the emissions crap. I have to still go and cut my EGR pipe to exhaust (blocked with a piece of rebar) and will have to pull my intake manifold as one of the studs for the j-pipe popped and so I have a slight exhaust leak now....

 

[rickyrockrat]

Rust comment

So a comment on that rust spot on the passengers side. I would take off your rear passenger side panel and see if your gas filler panel is leaking. I just fixed one that had extensive rust issues - all caused by bad caulking between the rear side panel and the gas filler indention. It is only spot welded on, then they put tons of body caulking to seal it up - which cracks over time.

You'll see streaks below the gas filler bulge if you're leaking. If you don't fix it, the cancer will grow. You can also treat the inside of both rear panels with some good quality undercoat for future protection. I suggest you remove your rear light assemblies when you do so - makes it SO much easier. I also rigged up a small hose (the kind they use for IVs in hospitals) to go from my can of undercoat to the undercoat nozzle so I could get all the way to the bottom of those side panels.

Have a look at the pics so you get the idea:

This little leak:

Causes this:

And yes, I cut all that out and replaced with new metal.

The really nice part about your little rust spot is that it is very small and easily fixed now. It could also just be moisture coming from the welded pieces around the fender well.

Good job on all your work on the truck - nicely done for someone who's not wrenched before!

Oh, one other note on the clutch. The AISIN CKT032 clutch kit is very nice, comes with koyo bearings, and wasn't too bad for $150 from RockAuto.
Cheers.

 

[vszUnclear]

Rickyrockrat:

Yes, I have the streaks behind that panel under the gas filler housing so I will definitely at least caulk around the housing. Attacking the rust is on my priority list. I know the right approach is to cut out anything rusted through, but I hesitate to get into it b/c I don't know how to weld. Nor do I have painting gear. But I know it's important to tackle this sooner than later.

That's the Aisin clutch kit I went with. Dropping the tranny was too much for me in my little garage so I had a shop do it.

Thanks for the encouragement. This weekend I replaced the spark plugs with denso, gapped. In the process, I checked the engine compression (with choke open) and got:
140, 140, 138, 137, 139, 145
I'm at about sea level so they are a little low from the 149 PSI standard in 2F FSM. Doesn't seem too bad though.

 

[vszUnclear]

Rust assault - it begins

Desmog follow up: I set my timing and adjusted the carb and I think I'm in business. Gonna swap the dissy once I get the recurve from Jim C...

Next on the list for me is rust. I've decided that I'm going to buy a welder and try to do the patches myself. Heck, I'm in this to learn so why not.

This is the first cut I've made, to discover the first (outer, rear quarter) layer totally rusted through and 80% of the second (wheel well). For now, it's ground out and primed to keep it from getting worse until I get a welder.
Before:

After:

Here's really where I could definitely use some advice. Take a look at this bit of rust. I haven't cut into it but it extends beyond the visible area in the picture to the left (to the rear rocker area). I'm not sure how to attack this. The rust seems to be on and above the rocker on the pillar. Should I just start grinding and cutting in place? Anything structural to worry about? It's gonna be big hole, I think.

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Major Nelson]

Congrats on the rig. I'm up in Issaquah. Let me know if you ever need a hand. About to start work on my FJ60 as well (FJ40 already sitting in the garage.

As I like to say "Heroin, I should've taken up Heroin as a hobby...cheaper and less addictive".

 

[vszUnclear]

Thanks Major Nelson,
we should meet up some time, I'd love to see your cruisers. It's so interesting how many of us there are out there. I put a gasket on CL and it turns out the guy who bought it lived half a block away, has a nice 40.

Cheers.

 

[vszUnclear]

Starter is toast, literally

Update on my 60...

1. I got my freshly rebuilt/recurved dissy from Jim C. Acceleration is so much smoother and the whole rig is quieter. I can run at 3K RPM on the hwy doing 65 mph and it doesn't sound nearly as strained as before.

2. Passenger side front knuckle/wheel hub rebuild a couple of weeks ago using the Marlin kit. That makes two knuckle jobs for me, having a press sure makes a lot of things easier.

Now I have a new problem - my voltage gauge registers very low and there is a horrendous loud electric motor noise under the hood. Starting was hard but it eventually catches. It runs but sounds like something is going to burst. At first I thought it was my alternator gone bad but turns out to be my starter.

For some time, periodically when I go to start it just clicks, but no start. If I try again it works. But now things have fully degraded and the starter seems to be engaged full time after starting and is smoking and getting very hot quickly. I read this thread and figure its one of three issues:
- starter gear binding and not retracting like normal
- bad ground
- bad switch

I'm guessing it's the gear not retracting. So I got a reman starter from Napa today and will give it a whirl. If a 25 yo part binds up, so be it, but I want to make sure there isn't some underlying cause for the issue.

Any advice on how I should proceed with this starter issue?

 

[vszUnclear]

The problem I mentioned in my last post turned out to be a bad switch, which was the last thing I tried. So I have a new Napa reman starter as well as a new switch. I think I'm going to rebuild my OEM starter though and swap it back in. I hate the sound of the Napa reman.

I had a weird confluence of problems all at once that had me stumped for a while. In addition to the ignition issue, I had low power and shuddering while accelerating. Turns out my fuel filter was clogged, replaced with Wix 33204. Is it normal for an OEM toyota filter to clog after 3-4K?

I still have some shuddering but the power/acceleration is back to normal. Reading some posts, sounds like the drive line u-joints are a common cause of shuddering. Checked it out and sure enough some of mine were toasty/rusty. I'm going to swap them out with some Moogs I ordered; glad I have that press.

My next major TODO item is getting this thing aligned/driving straight as it wanders especially on rutty roads. Sounds like there are all sorts of causes for that including steering box, play in tie/relay rods, improper toe-in, caster, etc. Yee ha!

It's been quite a project so far and I feel like I'm only scratching the surface of potential work.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Turns out my fuel filter was clogged. Is it normal for an OEM toyota filter to clog after 3-4K?

That's definitely a bad thing. Either the truck got a load of dirty gas, or the fuel tank/lines are rusting away on the inside. Normally a FF can go 50k miles (not recommended) without plugging.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Time to look into the gas tank recall....hopefully yours hasn't been performed yet and you'll be able to take it to the dealer and have the tank and associated parts replaced on Mr. T's dime.

Sorry if you mentioned it....I didn't read the whole thread just skimmed.

Congrats on getting the decal figured out!