First FJ40!!! - Build Up Thread

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More Pics of Rust Proofing and Undercoating.

Thanks guys! I really lucked out on finding this 40.

I know you guys like more pix and since a bit OCD, here is the link to the process.
Undercoating Pix

Not sure on the muffler heat deflectors (name?). I think they are aluminum? they are not really rusty so might just throw them back on when done with the undercoating the bed. Thoughts anyone? Quick coat of Rust Bullet?

Also painted the Transmission Cover with Rust Bullet high gloss black. Will add more pix soon. Next will be the seats. The new foam and covers are sitting in the basement waiting. Guess that's life!
 
Great job. Looks fantastic. Glad you decided to keep the smog components too. Just know that a lot of the '77 stuff is specific to that model year and is very hard to find - DAMHIK :whoops:

Also, if you read through the Emissions FSM and understand what Toyota was trying to do with all the VSVs and stuff most of it makes sense to me :idea:

I wouldn't worry about power loss as long as everything is functioning correctly :cheers:
 
Rust Proofing (Rust Bullet) and Undercoating

Thanks guys!

subzali - planning on keeping it stock and original as much as possible. Need to get the carb rebuilt by JimC, and I think it will driving much better, and more power. Planning on that this winter when the snow and salt comes to the midwest. I will read up on the Emissions FSM.

allana13 - I got most of my OEM parts from ACC in Atlanta (good service and good prices), and some from Cruiser Dan (CDan) at American Toyota in ABQ, New Mexico. Also great!
 
if you think it's lacking power, do the paperclip trick on the secondary diaphragm shaft and see if it's working as a good first step. Also look to see that you're getting a strong stream of fuel from the accelerator pump when you move the throttle.
 
My knuckles prob. need a rebuild too. Looks like from the pics that you had a really good time doing it. Wanna take a vacation to Fla. and help me with mine?
 
Carb Rebuild

Just had the carb rebuilt by Jim C. Runs great! Noticeably improved. Thanks so much Jim. I thought about doing it myself, but would highly recommend the rebuild.

Jim "JimC" Chenoweth
TLC Performance
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
Ph. 740.862.2604
 
New Seats - Painting Floor and Rear

I am recovering my seats, $OR delux seat covers and $OR foam. Expensive but the new high density foam is awesome. I sand blasted and repainted all the seat posts and bottoms. They look sharp.

When I pulled out the seats, I got carried away and decided to pull everything in hopes of repainting the whole floor and rear bed of the truck. I want to keep it stock, and prevent rust. I was thinking of using RustBullet, then primer, then OEM 416. I can get it mixed and put in spray cans in town.

How do I get this all sanded down and smooth? Belt sander? Some kind or grinder? I used a wire bell brush to get off the loose stuff. :confused:

I have been using a paint scrapper to get most of the old floor mat residue off the back bed, but I want to get it as perfect as possible and smooth before putting down a rust inhibitor. Suggestions advice... I am not a painter. Thanks!
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Removing the insulation - heat gun and scraper.

Removing the paint and rust - wire wheels, abrasive disks and elbow grease.

I treated my floor/bed with Ospho before putting any kind of paint down. Do a search on it, it is good stuff to prevent rust.
 
You won't be able to get a thick/strong enough coat of paint with rattle can to hold up to use on a floor. Do you have a compressor? What about getting it painted professionally-likely would not cost too much if you've prepped it. Rhino line colour matched?

You'll love the Spector cushions-very durable.
 
Removing the insulation - heat gun and scraper.

Removing the paint and rust - wire wheels, abrasive disks and elbow grease.

I treated my floor/bed with Ospho before putting any kind of paint down. Do a search on it, it is good stuff to prevent rust.

^^^^^ I trust Chris' opinion here.
 
Oh, and get off your CDO (that's OCD in alpha order - if you are OCD you will get that joke) butt and post more progress. 3 pages in 3 years. Seriously? Lets go man! It's not like you have a life or anything!
 
Our tour bus driver does body and paint work. He's got a little home shop/paint booth set up in Lebanon. I could put you two together if you'd like. It won't be cheap, but it won't cost you as much as a shop either.
 
Our tour bus driver does body and paint work. He's got a little home shop/paint booth set up in Lebanon. I could put you two together if you'd like. It won't be cheap, but it won't cost you as much as a shop either.

Adistler, I assume you are talking to me. Thanks for that info. Pm it to me if you don't mind.
 
Rear Bed Repaint

Thanks for the advice guys. Got most the rust out, rust bullet down first, then a few good coats of primer, and then 3 coats of a strong acrylic enamel matched perfectly to Dune Beige 416. It turned out way better than expected for my first time painting with a gun! Got a cheapo gun from Harbor Freight, but worked pretty well. Such a slow process! Now I know why body work can be so expensive!

Now just need to paint the gas tank cover other small parts and get it back together. Hope to be driving it by next weekend.

Anybody know the part number for the small white fuel filter that is near the gas tank door?
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More Pix

I know people like pix, so here are a few more. The Orange Peel look people talk about even happened a bit, not sure how but looks pretty awesome to me!
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Gun and Compressor

The gun is pictured below, about $25 bucks from Harbor Freight and the compressor had a small tank capacity so I had to paint it in small steps, had to wait for it to catch up about every 30 seconds, but that was actually good I think to go slower.

The pressure gauge and oil/water remover were key to keep the pressure constant and lines dry. Had to learn all about this stuff...

The Oscillating Multipurpose tool was great for sanding down the rust, then I was pretty OCD with the sanding sponges and sand paper. Good to finally have it painted!
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SOR Seat Covers Installed

It's finally put back together with the new SOR seat covers and high density foam. The seats feel really nice and great! Going to put the roll bar and bench seats back in next weekend.

The gas tank reads about 1/2 of what I think it should... anybody have ideas on how/why that happens since I removed the tank? The gauge works, just a way underestimate of the current gas volume. It seems like it was modified or adjusted by having the tank out and empty for the past 3 weeks. Any thoughts?
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