If you can get a slot in the top of the bolt with a dremel cutoff wheel or hacksaw blade you could hit it with one of these hand impact drivers that you strike with a hammer.
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If you can create a groove in the broken bolt, you can use a screwdriver.Solid idea, will definitely try again. I spent hours with a pair of channel locks going at it a month ago, wouldn’t move. My latest idea is take a hacksaw to make an indent and try to back it out with a screwdriver. Don’t want to annihilate this screw too much with pliers.
I coulda sworn I saw you in saying you had KO2s in a thread from the past year or two. Leaning towards solid ATs though great recommendation, kinda feel like they’ve gotten plenty good enough to not need dedicated winter unless you’re in Siberia.
I’ve never used them but that’s definitely what I’m seeing across the board. For my use case, may make sense to get good ATs and if I want to go do a sketchy 6hr drive in winter I swap to studded. Would probably be far too lazy to do it though, especially if its 30 below.Studded tires are about the only thing that really work on ice, but they have so many downsides.
It shouldn't require a lot of torque to undo it.This is what I'm working with - I just don't think I have enough room even if I took a dremel to the top to make a notch in it. I think my only real option is to pull the upper intake to try to come at it from below.
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Sounds good, no welding stuff (my friend does though) but it's such a rough position I'd be hesitant to do that. I'll probably try to do a reverse drill bit (will take a week to come though).It shouldn't require a lot of torque to undo it.
Try a left handed/ reverse rotation 4mm drill bit.
Use rag or tape to keep shavings out of the head. Hopefully the drill bit bites and unscrews it.
If you have a MIG or TIG welder, weld a nut on to it.
Or carefully drill it out completely and tap the head, install a helicoil insert and replace the bolt
I would use a half hacksaw blade and cut a groove in the top of that bolt to use a screwdriver on it. It's in a good location for that. Use the tags to keep the shavings out of the head.This is what I'm working with - I just don't think I have enough room even if I took a dremel to the top to make a notch in it. I think my only real option is to pull the upper intake to try to come at it from below.
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Everyone wants to make me broke huh. Lots of good threads on it, definitely depends on how far you want to take it, but seems like easily $300-400. Only thing I couldn't find is the square footage needed for the floor (I'll do doors and ceiling later on).I would 100% add sound deadening and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) while you have carpet out.
It'll make a big difference to the amount of noise coming into the cab, and will also help reduce heat coming into the cab.
There's a few good threads on this
My hacksaw isn't great for it honestly, went at it for half an hour and barely made a dent. Think I need a better mini hacksaw, will also go the dremel route. Think this one is just gonna be try lots of different things till I get it out.I would use a half hacksaw blade and cut a groove in the top of that bolt to use a screwdriver on it. It's in a good location for that. Use the tags to keep the shavings out of the head.
Everyone wants to make me broke huh.
That stuff is expensive haha. Really helpful though, seems like total floor is about 40 sq ft. It seems like with this everyone does something different and it mostly works out if you pony up the cash for good quality materials.I used a mat product from Dynamat called Dynapad. I got lucky and scored two rolls from Amazon returns for a discount. I used two 32"x54" rolls, and it covered the first row, plus the footwell of the second row. It would have taken another couple of rolls to do the whole cargo area. I put the Dynapad over a layer of Ballistic Hollow Point adhesive sheet. Than a vinyl floor from Australia over that, and have been happy with it.
I ordered 80 sq ft of the Dynamat/Kilmat style stuff, and could get my hands on 36 sq ft of the Noico closed cell foam. I'll start with that, will probably order some random MLV as well but yeah I think I got the three stages down for now. Hopefully I can get more good closed cell foam (I think Noico manufactures in Russia so it's very hard to get nowadays) since I don't think 36 sq ft is enough, but I will work with what I've got.You can try to get creative with alternate products.
MLV is used in buildings to insulate for sound between offices in commercial suites, or to sound proof studios etc. May be an alternative source without paying for a specialty product.
I previously used 1/4" closed cell foam foil backed thermal insulation that is used as a vapour barrier in construction.
You want something to absorb noise, something to block noise, and something to prevent resonance in flat metal panels.
Dynamat sticks to panels and stops resonance. You don't need to cover entire panels for it to be effective
MLV absorbs and stops noise and in part heat.
The air trapped in closed cell foam absorbs noise and heat.
Glue it all down. Cut carefully to minimise gaps in MLV and tape all seams
The passenger floor and tunnel gets very hot, so that's where you need heat barrier as well as noise barrier.I ordered 80 sq ft of the Dynamat/Kilmat style stuff, and could get my hands on 36 sq ft of the Noico closed cell foam. I'll start with that, will probably order some random MLV as well but yeah I think I got the three stages down for now. Hopefully I can get more good closed cell foam (I think Noico manufactures in Russia so it's very hard to get nowadays) since I don't think 36 sq ft is enough, but I will work with what I've got.