If you can get a slot in the top of the bolt with a dremel cutoff wheel or hacksaw blade you could hit it with one of these hand impact drivers that you strike with a hammer.
First car, lx450! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter tug123
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If you can create a groove in the broken bolt, you can use a screwdriver.
Also, if it's on the rear of the VC, you may be able to screw it out the bottom, if you can get hold of the bottom end.
I run Goodyear Duratracs 285/65-16 on my LC. Excellent in the snow.
I got 95,000 miles out of my last set, and I'm at 55K on my current set with over 50% tread left. I really like them for what I do. Mostly highway, some minor offroad, all types of dirt and snow conditions.
- Thread starter
- #403
Yeah from what I've seen it ends up being mostly Duratracs vs KO2s (or Toyo AT3s). Since the main issue here is actually ice (though we do get a lot of snow) what I'll probably do is settle on one of the good AT tires and feel it out once the winter comes. If I really feel I need a dedicated winter set, I'll go that route as well. Studded is likely excessive since conditions are so unpredictable here, last winter was very mild.
Have about 130 miles on the car now, noticed some whining/buzzing sounds when accelerating at above 50MPH, but found some threads that are pretty identical to what I've seen. Most of the recommendations were the stuff I was going to do next anyways. Do notice a good amount of resistance/drag on my pedal, probably something with my throttle cable I ought to figure out.
Have about 130 miles on the car now, noticed some whining/buzzing sounds when accelerating at above 50MPH, but found some threads that are pretty identical to what I've seen. Most of the recommendations were the stuff I was going to do next anyways. Do notice a good amount of resistance/drag on my pedal, probably something with my throttle cable I ought to figure out.
- Thread starter
- #405
I’ve never used them but that’s definitely what I’m seeing across the board. For my use case, may make sense to get good ATs and if I want to go do a sketchy 6hr drive in winter I swap to studded. Would probably be far too lazy to do it though, especially if its 30 below.
- Thread starter
- #406
This is what I'm working with - I just don't think I have enough room even if I took a dremel to the top to make a notch in it. I think my only real option is to pull the upper intake to try to come at it from below.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
It shouldn't require a lot of torque to undo it.
Try a left handed/ reverse rotation 4mm drill bit.
Use rag or tape to keep shavings out of the head. Hopefully the drill bit bites and unscrews it.
If you have a MIG or TIG welder, weld a nut on to it.
Or carefully drill it out completely and tap the head, install a helicoil insert and replace the bolt
- Thread starter
- #408
Sounds good, no welding stuff (my friend does though) but it's such a rough position I'd be hesitant to do that. I'll probably try to do a reverse drill bit (will take a week to come though).
While I have all of the carpets out, anything I ought to do? Gonna get the detail shop to power wash and shampoo my carpets tomorrow, hopefully they don't mess it up ha. Feel like sound deadening isn't a bad idea since I probably won't want to pull seats and carpets again. Easy to remove both the tow hitch wires and RS3000 now.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I would 100% add sound deadening and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) while you have carpet out.
It'll make a big difference to the amount of noise coming into the cab, and will also help reduce heat coming into the cab.
There's a few good threads on this
It'll make a big difference to the amount of noise coming into the cab, and will also help reduce heat coming into the cab.
There's a few good threads on this
I would use a half hacksaw blade and cut a groove in the top of that bolt to use a screwdriver on it. It's in a good location for that. Use the tags to keep the shavings out of the head.
- Thread starter
- #412
Everyone wants to make me broke huh. Lots of good threads on it, definitely depends on how far you want to take it, but seems like easily $300-400. Only thing I couldn't find is the square footage needed for the floor (I'll do doors and ceiling later on).
My hacksaw isn't great for it honestly, went at it for half an hour and barely made a dent. Think I need a better mini hacksaw, will also go the dremel route. Think this one is just gonna be try lots of different things till I get it out.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Welcome to Mud!
We're always helpful when it comes to spending someone else's money.
I know I don't mind a bit!
- Thread starter
- #415
Damn this whole sound deadening thing is full of different opinions.
Gonna use Kilmat 80mil for the first layer. Planned on doing a closed cell foam + MLV on top, but every single product from Noico is out of stock. Any suggestions for alternatives to Noico 150mil closed cell foam? I guess I could just drop $500 on 54 sq ft of Second Skin that is both foam and MLV, not even sure if 54 sq ft is enough though.
Gonna use Kilmat 80mil for the first layer. Planned on doing a closed cell foam + MLV on top, but every single product from Noico is out of stock. Any suggestions for alternatives to Noico 150mil closed cell foam? I guess I could just drop $500 on 54 sq ft of Second Skin that is both foam and MLV, not even sure if 54 sq ft is enough though.
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
I used a mat product from Dynamat called Dynapad. I got lucky and scored two rolls from Amazon returns for a discount. I used two 32"x54" rolls, and it covered the first row, plus the footwell of the second row. It would have taken another couple of rolls to do the whole cargo area. I put the Dynapad over a layer of Ballistic Hollow Point adhesive sheet. Than a vinyl floor from Australia over that, and have been happy with it.
- Thread starter
- #417
That stuff is expensive haha. Really helpful though, seems like total floor is about 40 sq ft. It seems like with this everyone does something different and it mostly works out if you pony up the cash for good quality materials.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
You can try to get creative with alternate products.
MLV is used in buildings to insulate for sound between offices in commercial suites, or to sound proof studios etc. May be an alternative source without paying for a specialty product.
I previously used 1/4" closed cell foam foil backed thermal insulation that is used as a vapour barrier in construction.
You want something to absorb noise, something to block noise, and something to prevent resonance in flat metal panels.
Dynamat sticks to panels and stops resonance. You don't need to cover entire panels for it to be effective
MLV absorbs and stops noise and in part heat.
The air trapped in closed cell foam absorbs noise and heat.
Glue it all down. Cut carefully to minimise gaps in MLV and tape all seams
MLV is used in buildings to insulate for sound between offices in commercial suites, or to sound proof studios etc. May be an alternative source without paying for a specialty product.
I previously used 1/4" closed cell foam foil backed thermal insulation that is used as a vapour barrier in construction.
You want something to absorb noise, something to block noise, and something to prevent resonance in flat metal panels.
Dynamat sticks to panels and stops resonance. You don't need to cover entire panels for it to be effective
MLV absorbs and stops noise and in part heat.
The air trapped in closed cell foam absorbs noise and heat.
Glue it all down. Cut carefully to minimise gaps in MLV and tape all seams
- Thread starter
- #419
I ordered 80 sq ft of the Dynamat/Kilmat style stuff, and could get my hands on 36 sq ft of the Noico closed cell foam. I'll start with that, will probably order some random MLV as well but yeah I think I got the three stages down for now. Hopefully I can get more good closed cell foam (I think Noico manufactures in Russia so it's very hard to get nowadays) since I don't think 36 sq ft is enough, but I will work with what I've got.
The passenger floor and tunnel gets very hot, so that's where you need heat barrier as well as noise barrier.
