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- #341
Eucalyptus tree that was killed due to the intense heat from the Alpine fire in SoCal.
Firewood? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter D'Animal
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Any timber to be had from older trees....or better used for fuel/firewood?
I'm not familiar with it's normal uses, sorry.
- Thread starter
- #343
Eucalyptus is good for firewood once it dries out. In the USA, the wood is too unstable to use for structure or furniture
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
Question for the experts here; This giant is basically held up by 2 large branches (the one in the middle of the pic has already been cut) and I figured the safest way to lower this tree would be to cut a series of ~2 ft sections off the end of one of those wt bearing branches to bring it down gradually. Well, after getting 2 bars stuck it's clear my technique leaves something to be desired.
So, how would you experts cut those high tension branches to limit movement of the tree and keep my bars from getting pinched?
Can you post pictures of what it looks like now (maybe for a couple different angles). Then we can determine from which end to let it down.
Remember...limbs can be under tremendous tension. If you are pinching your bar then we need to correct your technique (line of attack). Often you'll need to start your cut on top (or bottom) and finish from the other side. I highly recommend you get a couple of inexpensive 'wedges' as well.
What do you have for equipment? What CC saw and bar length? Second saw or not?
What is the diameter of the trunk just above the root ball? (36")?
Remember...limbs can be under tremendous tension. If you are pinching your bar then we need to correct your technique (line of attack). Often you'll need to start your cut on top (or bottom) and finish from the other side. I highly recommend you get a couple of inexpensive 'wedges' as well.
What do you have for equipment? What CC saw and bar length? Second saw or not?
What is the diameter of the trunk just above the root ball? (36")?
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
Thanks for the willingness to help. I'll post up more info tonight.
Sounds good will check back. Need to be very careful letting it down. Once on the ground...you can buck it up no problem.
First cut away all the branches that you can in order to see the rest of the tree then start at the top of the tree and whittle it down as much as possible to the branches that are holding the trunk up.
Off hand I would say after you have done all the above I would possibly cut the trunk about where that knot pointing down is.
Start underneath until it starts to give then work from the top and be ready to jump out of the way.
I have heated with wood for forty years.
The first ten in Ca. and got wood from many sources about half of it coming from forestry permits.
These past thirty I have gotten 99% of the wood from my property.
I quit using wood three years ago so there is a lot of dead fall on the south end that I haven't touched.
There is an Oak as big as the one pictured that fell over a couple of months ago and I just have no desire to mess with it and kind of feel guilty about it.
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
Here you can see both branches that are holding the tree up.
Below is the wt bearing branch that I started to section up a little at a time If you look closely you can see the 2 bars that are pinched and now part of the tree for the time being. part of the problem is that the distal end of that branch is jammed into the ground and maybe there isn't enough slack to move the cut piece out of the way? Maybe I should dig that out and try to get it out of the way.
This is the second wt bearing branch. I haven't messed with this one yet but maybe this is the better branch to go after.
In terms of gear I've been using Husqvarna saws. One 460 (60cc) and one 440 (40cc) and have 20" and 16" bars (both currently decorating the tree) and a 18" bar. I have a couple splitting wedges that i was trying to use to hold off compression.
Below is the wt bearing branch that I started to section up a little at a time If you look closely you can see the 2 bars that are pinched and now part of the tree for the time being. part of the problem is that the distal end of that branch is jammed into the ground and maybe there isn't enough slack to move the cut piece out of the way? Maybe I should dig that out and try to get it out of the way.
This is the second wt bearing branch. I haven't messed with this one yet but maybe this is the better branch to go after.
In terms of gear I've been using Husqvarna saws. One 460 (60cc) and one 440 (40cc) and have 20" and 16" bars (both currently decorating the tree) and a 18" bar. I have a couple splitting wedges that i was trying to use to hold off compression.
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OK.
You are going to need some proper wedges (2 or 3). Splitting wedges are just going to squirt right back out at you (if you can get them started at all).
First:
You'll want to clean up what you already have cut. You have too much laying around underfoot to safely continue. Take your time, rest when tired.
DO NOT cut anything overhead, above breast-height or from a ladder. The limbs remaining above the trunk look to be of no consequence right now.
Don't be tempted to cut long/large sections of limbs off at a time. Looking at the root ball I don't foresee the trunk 'rolling' but it can definitely 'shift' if you take too much off either supporting limb.
Notes:
The limbs are under tension/compression (depending on orientation) from as much as three directions (as you have discovered).
Limbs that are completely off the ground can be cut safely by making a small cut (1/3rd the diameter) from underneath first. Then finishing with a cut from the top. A limb that is OFF the ground has it's underside in 'compression' (will pinch your saw). The upper side is under 'tension' (wants to spread apart or fall). By making the first cut underneath you prevent the portion being cut from hanging on, splitting, etc...and the small kerf allows your cut on top to open up (saw won't pinch).
Limbs on the ground can be anything from neutral to under compression/tension. In your case they are ALL under pressure of some type. You will need to look at each and determine what the influence is. But remember anytime you have a tree with limbs jammed in the ground or a large crown of limbs remaining...all of that is pushing back toward the root ball.
So you have that to deal with as well as the normal compression/tension sides of the limb/trunk you are cutting.
For limbs that you can span with the length of your bar (limbs that are supporting the trunk) cut a 'Vee' in the top side first. This makes room for the limb to close up when you make your bottom cut. Then finish your cut from the bottom (meeting at the apex of the Vee). Be ready to withdraw your saw and move back quickly as it parts. Using this technique the bottom cut will open up and not pinch your saw. IF you see at anytime the bottom cut closing up on you...stop and get a wedge in the cut (top or bottom).
When you get to parts of the trunk that are wider than your bar will span, post back here and we can discuss other methods to deal with that. We are going to need to know your experience and comfort level using a chainsaw. That will dictate what kind of cuts you will want to use.
I know there are faster ways (for Pros/experienced) to do this and no doubt you are going to get some "just do it this way" comments. But I recommend you take your time, use the techniques I have suggested and be safe about it.
Keep your chains sharp. STOP and rest when you get tired. Do NOT saw tired. Keep your working area clear. DON'T let the upper 1/4 of the tip of your bar contact anything (you'll get kickback).
You are going to need some proper wedges (2 or 3). Splitting wedges are just going to squirt right back out at you (if you can get them started at all).
First:
You'll want to clean up what you already have cut. You have too much laying around underfoot to safely continue. Take your time, rest when tired.
DO NOT cut anything overhead, above breast-height or from a ladder. The limbs remaining above the trunk look to be of no consequence right now.
Don't be tempted to cut long/large sections of limbs off at a time. Looking at the root ball I don't foresee the trunk 'rolling' but it can definitely 'shift' if you take too much off either supporting limb.
Notes:
The limbs are under tension/compression (depending on orientation) from as much as three directions (as you have discovered).
Limbs that are completely off the ground can be cut safely by making a small cut (1/3rd the diameter) from underneath first. Then finishing with a cut from the top. A limb that is OFF the ground has it's underside in 'compression' (will pinch your saw). The upper side is under 'tension' (wants to spread apart or fall). By making the first cut underneath you prevent the portion being cut from hanging on, splitting, etc...and the small kerf allows your cut on top to open up (saw won't pinch).
Limbs on the ground can be anything from neutral to under compression/tension. In your case they are ALL under pressure of some type. You will need to look at each and determine what the influence is. But remember anytime you have a tree with limbs jammed in the ground or a large crown of limbs remaining...all of that is pushing back toward the root ball.
So you have that to deal with as well as the normal compression/tension sides of the limb/trunk you are cutting.
For limbs that you can span with the length of your bar (limbs that are supporting the trunk) cut a 'Vee' in the top side first. This makes room for the limb to close up when you make your bottom cut. Then finish your cut from the bottom (meeting at the apex of the Vee). Be ready to withdraw your saw and move back quickly as it parts. Using this technique the bottom cut will open up and not pinch your saw. IF you see at anytime the bottom cut closing up on you...stop and get a wedge in the cut (top or bottom).
When you get to parts of the trunk that are wider than your bar will span, post back here and we can discuss other methods to deal with that. We are going to need to know your experience and comfort level using a chainsaw. That will dictate what kind of cuts you will want to use.
I know there are faster ways (for Pros/experienced) to do this and no doubt you are going to get some "just do it this way" comments. But I recommend you take your time, use the techniques I have suggested and be safe about it.
Keep your chains sharp. STOP and rest when you get tired. Do NOT saw tired. Keep your working area clear. DON'T let the upper 1/4 of the tip of your bar contact anything (you'll get kickback).
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^^^^
This will pinch the saw bar right from the get-go. The upper portion is under compression. There are a number of ways to address the trunk itself but cutting from the bottom to the point where the tree sags is one I would avoid.
Sawing upward (from underneath) on a trunk at that height will be especially tiring. Better to bore/plunge cut (then saw downward) leaving enough holding wood on top to support the trunk. Then begin at the top with wedges inserted as soon as possible. An offset cut could also be employed. Also I would begin as close to the root-ball as feasible.
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
Any progress with this project. By now....you should have recovered the bars that limb was holding hostage.
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
Yes, I have retrieved my bars and put them back to work. I decided to cut on the other wt bearing branch that I hadn't worked with yet and haven't gotten stuck yet. I haven't worked too much on the trunk this week as I've been trying to pile up the smaller branches but I'll get back on it this weekend.
Good deal, thanks for the update.
I'm assuming the trunk of the tree is a diameter larger than your bar will span? When you get to that point let us know, especially when you get near the root-ball. The trunk will be suspended at that end and we need to discuss making plunge cuts.
It's a lot of damn work....isn't it!
You in Kansas...?
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JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
Yep, I'm in KS. I've done a good bit of cutting trails through the property. Cedars, osage, locust, some pines but nothing this big. Just in the last year 3 professional tree trimmers around here had serious accidents. 2 deaths and one guy lost an arm so I'm moving slow on this one.
Pretty well have it on the ground now.
Good job. You've got it on the run now. It's a LOT of work, believe me I know. You are a smart man to be cautious when tackling something larger than what you have done before. Very easy to get hurt when doing tree work. Even for pro's, just one miscalculation or moment of inattention can result in a life altering event.
Shame to lose a nice big Oak like that (root rot)?
Looks like you'll soon be up to the 'big stuff' (Forks and Main Trunk).
After you've cut up as close as you can to the main trunk (where it makes a fork) you are going to have a diameter that your bar won't span. And if I'm not mistaken the main trunk will still be slightly off the ground in places?
So...you'll need to decide what method you want to use to cut through it there. Obviously, you'll be coming in from both sides.
If it were me, at that point...I would stop cutting it from the direction you have been and go back to the root ball. Work it from the RB toward the fork. That way you'll get the trunk actually touching the ground quicker and are less likely to get a bar pinched. This is the part where you will want to use your wedges.
You 'can' work from the top of the log downward (from each side) and use wedges to keep the kerf open, but I'd just do a plunge cut about 1/2 way up from the bottom. Bore straight in the length of your bar and saw downward. Go to the other side, do the same thing (meeting your first cut). This will make the undercut without you ever having to saw upward (very tiring).
Then finish the cut by starting on top of the log BUT getting your wedges in the kerf as SOON as you can to prevent it from closing up as you finish sawing down to meet your undercut. Very important to keep your chain sharp at this stage of the game.
IF you decide to use a plunge/bore cut be absolutely CERTAIN that you begin the cut with the bar at an angle (using the bottom side of the radius) and roll it in only after the tip is no longer visible, then straighten it up and bore straight in. You don't want any kickback due to rolling your tip in too soon. It is a very handy technique to learn, but not one I recommend the average homeowner adopt. But you already have cutting experience I can see. Plenty of YouTube videos showing the technique I'm sure.
If you had a longer bar...we'd go another route, but you can Buck Up that trunk with what you have. DO be careful and rest when you get tired. That's when folks get hurt (get in a hurry or keep sawing when tired).
Getting hot there in Kansas yet? I lived the SouthEast corner (Independence) for 6 years as a Lad and remember how miserably hot it could get in the Summer.
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Good work. Glad to see you have it down in the ground but don't stop being careful.
Every time I work with a power tool my first thought is this thing can kcuf me up if I am not careful.
So far in years of cutting firewood I only nicked the toe of a boot.
Speaking of toes and fire wood brings to mind a sort of funny story that could have wound up serious.
I am getting to be an old fart so bare with me.
On Thanksgiving in 75 I invited my five years younger brother over for dinner.
While we have never been what you would call close we were not estranged.
We had a few drinks that helped strengthen the brotherly bond and even though it being a nice southern Calif. day we decided we needed a fire in the nice big fireplace in the living room to ad to the holiday spirit.
There was a small pile of wood on the patio but we needed some kindling.
There was also a single bit ax that I had sharpened up pretty good some days before.
So we are messing around only as a couple of inebriated a holes can do when I took swing with the ax and made a glancing blow causing the ax to come down square on the end of my brothers shoe.
It happened so fast he didn't have time to move his foot before the blade hit cleanly lopping about an inch and a half off the end of his Hush Puppy shoe.
As we both stood there frozen in shock looking at my brother's severed shoe he relaxed his foot and his toes came slowly peeking out.
Of course we started laughing right away and decided we didn't need a fire and went back in for another drink and for dumb luck wound up having a nice thanksgiving.
Yeah....'Toes' don't make very good kindling. Not until they've dried out some....anyway.
Great story and the admonishment to be safe is a good one.
JayDoc
boop/bop/beep
One last question before I go after the root ball end. Is there a handy way to ensure I'm aiming for the same point when plunge cutting from each side? Or just spitball it?