Finishing a coiled-over idea (9 Viewers)

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Truck:
1990 4runner, bobbed with p/u tailgae
3.4l, dual cases, SAS, 4.88s, full Detroits, hydrauilc assist, 3-link, coilovers

CLEAN!! never been wheeled. It was used as an advertisement truck. I flexed it out and the 35"s scrubbed BAD

. Not a little "What was that noise?" more like POWPOWPOW "Oh hell, you just chunked the tires."

Ive only ever had a 22r/re in a yota and this thing balled the tires on pavement with the 4.88s

. If I feel much of a loss with the 37"s Ive got some 5.29s that Ill put in.

To do:
Front end rebuild, 30 Spines, hub gears, upgrade hub studs, real high steer with beefy rods, upgrade driveshafts, rebuild one coilover, trim fenders for 37"s, move steering ram <-- fix leaks, tighten-up bumpers, add cooler for steering, full exo <--Only b/c the truck is SO clean, remove gay stickers, flush all fluids (is the radiator fluid supposed to be brown

), swaybar, and whatever I break the first trip out.
The links in the front look weak to me and are my biggest concern. Ill take some pics and post.

No too bad a list. The cage will be the most time consuming and I hope that the links will hold up to a good skinny pedal pounding

I like to build my own stuff for many reasons BUT I am on a budget and will gladly buy a ready built crewcabish tacoma thing with a 3.4l and duals in it, I did get into this money pit sport to RIDE right? Im basically looking at this like a pile of parts and expecting nothing, but hoping for the best.


What i bought

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

SWEET! more than 100hp than what Im used to and all Toyota.

Have to have

New to me ;p

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

30s BEIOTCH

preventive maintenance

Had this laying around

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

No, I didnt take it swimming . . .

Gotta work on this

unexpected wheel spacers and IFS rotors

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Upgrading these

So I can run these

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

before= scary and weak

after= strong and BLING

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

First ever halfway descent fender trimming job that Ive done. Found a little bondo, but it worked out.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

I like the look of the bumpers, but the front sticks out way too far.
I can probably cut about 4"s out of it if I keep the multi-mount winch plugs.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

parting shot

Thats it so far.

The steering stuff sould be here next week and I need to fab new brackets for the ram.

I found out that Im going back to Iraq in 12 weeks so we moved our trip to Hot Springs back a month so I really need to hustle on this exo-cage. Im not a huge fan of them, so Im going to try to make it as simple and with clean lines as I can. A test ride is a must before I make the 9 hour trip to Arkansas in the new family ride.

The more I sit here, the more I want to go check out my links and see how thick they are before I make any crazy plans

 

[84yota4x4]

That looks like a great starting point for building a trail rig! Keep us posted on the progress. Looking good so far.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Link shots

sweet giant bolts

The rears are 1.75"x .120"
The lower fronts are the same but the uppers ar only 1" OD. Im really trying to go on a test run this weekend and I may weld some angle iron on the uppers for the test ad then retube them when I get back.

The ends have what I call johnny joints in them.

The coilovers are Doetsch 15" with QA1 springs. 225/250 in the rear and 250/300 in the front.

I ordered two new 15" shafts, two rebuild kits and overnite shipping for $90 which I though was pretty reasonable.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Rear trimming
PLENTY of bondo. Whoever bobbed this would kill me if he saw what I did with that cutoff wheel

Before w/ 35s

After w/ 37s
This is way taller than ride height.

Can you see how thick it was?

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Departure angle

Approach
This is with the bumper off in case you could not tell
After I trim it, it should only stick out about 5" in front of the tires.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

New hub studs

Did I mention that this was my tow vehicle

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Its 76" tall
24" to the frame rail
about 112" wheel base
on 37" IROCs

 

[Mace]

those are not hub studs..

I would swap them out for studs..

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

You know what I meant

Why would you not use them?

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

You know what I meant

Why would you not use them?

Because they are not studs. As you tighten the bolts, the cone washers compress and prevent the bolts from reaching true proper torque(you torque wrench may read the value, but the fastener is not actually achieving that torque, the reading is being affected by the friction caused by the cone washer). A true stud does not turn and is therefore not affected by the cone washer. This lets the stud act purely in tension and not in shear.

In short, use studs because that's what you're supposed to use. Use ARP studs if you want some extra beef, available from www.frontrangeoffroadfab.com

Ary

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

I see what you are saying, but. . . .
Ive sheared off all of the factory ones twice in one day and these have to be stronger. A grade 8 bolt is like 10.2 metric and these are like 12.2.

Ill dog the shiznt out of it this weekend and report back what happens.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Get the ARP studs from front range. The guys on PBB beat their s*** like no other and I have yet to hear of an ARP stud failure. Whether it be hub studs or steering studs.