Just when I thought I was progressing... Changing out bad temp sender, over-tightened and snap. Now the threaded part is stuck in the head. Is there a way to extract this without a major headache?
Finally Started Working the Bugs Out, Then I Broke The Temp Sender
- Thread starter meatloaf
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Can you post a picture of the damage?
- Thread starter
- #5
Sorry guys, I was mad when I posted. Truck is a 92 22re. The old sender was damaged and throwing a code and then I broke the new one. Pappy, you are correct the sender was on the t-stat housing and not the head. Here is a picture of the broken piece too well.
That is not the temperature sender. The gauge sender is located between cylinders #2 and #3 on the intake manifold. This is one of the EFI sensors, the Water Thermo Sensor. Personally, I would remove the manifold to make removal easier. I would also suggest a few tasks while it's off. Send in your fuel injectors to get cleaned. Clean the inside of the throttle body. And, if you are real motivated, try to clean out the gunk that builds up inside the manifold from the PCV. Also, consider replacing the fuel filter while the manifold is off.
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Something like this may do the trick, but Pappy's right, taking it off will make the job easier!
https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Broken-Extractor-Repair/dp/B00AFOMBVM?tag=ihco-20
https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw-Broken-Extractor-Repair/dp/B00AFOMBVM?tag=ihco-20
- Thread starter
- #8
Good news. I got home yesterday and just for kicks stuck in a phillips screw driver and the broken piece came right out! I got a replcament one at AZ and truck is now running good, CEL is now gone, just idling high now.
Pappy, here is a picture of the replacement part, what is the official name for it?
Thank you all for the help/input.
Pappy, here is a picture of the replacement part, what is the official name for it?
Thank you all for the help/input.
did you make a cut in the part of the sensor that was stuck in the housing for the screwdriver or did you just jam it in and make it work?
From the Factory Service Manual. The various EFI bits on an early 22RE. Later models (1989+?) won't have the Solenoid Resister or the Air Valve. Later models (1986+) also have a different service connector.
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- Thread starter
- #11
Bigred, no I just stuck it in without forcing it and unscrewed it with out any resistance.
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- #12
Water Thermo Sensor. Thank you sir!
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- #13
Ok, another issue is that truck idles at 2000 rpm's hot or cold. The adjustment (in blue) screw is turned all the way in. I borrowed KLF's picture (w/o permission) to show the adjustment screw I am talking about. Could it be the IACV is bad?
If your idle doesn't change as the engine warms up, the IACV is likely stuck open. The earlier intakes had an easily accessible air hose that you could plug to check the valve, but your '92 should have the later, integrated design like pictured above. I've never looked too close at a late model IACV, but maybe you could test it by pulling it out and watching the valve while running hot/cold water though it? If you need one, I have an IACV from a '92 that I'd sell for cheap. PM me if interested.
nice, love it when you get lucky like that.
as for the idle usually when the iac go bad it wont fully open so youll get low or no idle till the vehicle warms up, but that dosnt mean that it cant be stuck open. since its accessible you could always give it few taps once its warmed up to see if that will get it to close
You have my permission to use my photo. 
What I did to test my IACV and confirm that it wasn't working was disconnect the air intake at the throttle body, then get a STRONG piece of duct tape (I recommend Gorilla tape) and put it over the hole just in front of the throttle plate to effectively block it off. Then I put the intake back on and started the engine. It barely ran. So that meant my IACV was stuck open. Just be sure to make the duct tape long enough so it hangs out the front if the throttle body, and you fold it over. You do NOT want it to come off, as the engine will suck it in and it will get stuck in a valve.
They are not cheap to buy new, like $250.
What I did to test my IACV and confirm that it wasn't working was disconnect the air intake at the throttle body, then get a STRONG piece of duct tape (I recommend Gorilla tape) and put it over the hole just in front of the throttle plate to effectively block it off. Then I put the intake back on and started the engine. It barely ran. So that meant my IACV was stuck open. Just be sure to make the duct tape long enough so it hangs out the front if the throttle body, and you fold it over. You do NOT want it to come off, as the engine will suck it in and it will get stuck in a valve.
They are not cheap to buy new, like $250.
- Thread starter
- #19
So, it looks truck is good now. I found a couple of things.
The throttle body was missing one bolt, maybe tb was not flush with intake?
The TPS only was being held in place by 1 screw so it was not flush against the tb.
Thanks Eradicator for hooking me up with a used IACV, which I replaced.
After putting all back together and adjadjusting the top screw, truck idles ~1100rpm when cold and ~750rpm at temp
Thank you all again for the help!
ML
The throttle body was missing one bolt, maybe tb was not flush with intake?
The TPS only was being held in place by 1 screw so it was not flush against the tb.
Thanks Eradicator for hooking me up with a used IACV, which I replaced.
After putting all back together and adjadjusting the top screw, truck idles ~1100rpm when cold and ~750rpm at temp
Thank you all again for the help!
ML