Builds Finally got my own...Meet BeBe
- Thread starter gregnash
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Think mechanical advantage here...
Maybe mount the shackle end last. Then you'll have more wiggly room. That's how I had to install my rears.
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hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
Get some extended schackles?
These springs seem to be made for a lift?
My hj has a 2 lift and attaching the springs is no problem at all, was a few years ago but I dont think I needed a jack to force them but they were used so maybe they settle? no idea.
Used a jack under the axle to lift/lower until fit.
And using a jack makes it fit but I dont know if that is to much tension on them?
So maybe some reading about springs, or more advice from others.
manual chassis page RA-40
hj60 greaseable shackles right front side:
12,5 centimetres from top to bottom, front 7,5 middle of the bolts.
Rear is 14 cm and 8,5 cm between bolts!
front:
rear:
These springs seem to be made for a lift?
My hj has a 2 lift and attaching the springs is no problem at all, was a few years ago but I dont think I needed a jack to force them but they were used so maybe they settle? no idea.
Used a jack under the axle to lift/lower until fit.
And using a jack makes it fit but I dont know if that is to much tension on them?
So maybe some reading about springs, or more advice from others.
manual chassis page RA-40
hj60 greaseable shackles right front side:
12,5 centimetres from top to bottom, front 7,5 middle of the bolts.
Rear is 14 cm and 8,5 cm between bolts!
front:
rear:
Last edited:
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #707
Yeah ok so here is where I am at. Can only get it to this point, maybe an inch or two away from being able to put the shackle pins through and it starts lifting the entire truck off the chassis stands.
Think I am gonna have to stick with the stock springs for the moment until I can get these flattened out some.
Think I am gonna have to stick with the stock springs for the moment until I can get these flattened out some.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #708
Ok everything is back together with stock springs. Will have to check the photos on my camera as I think I gained 1" from the new shocks.
Feels good to have her back together and running. Measured the eye to eye of the rearched springs and they both measure 44 1/2" and full length is about 53". Anyone know real measurements while I try and find something to measure accurately?
Feels good to have her back together and running. Measured the eye to eye of the rearched springs and they both measure 44 1/2" and full length is about 53". Anyone know real measurements while I try and find something to measure accurately?
Did you try to jack up the axle at same time? Should've done the job.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #711
@Output Shaft Yeah I tried to use the double jack method and it would only get me so far. I needed the truck back together for this week so just said screw it and put the old springs back on. Rear definitely feels different with the new shocks and bushings, now to get to the front. Gonna try and down just the shocks tonight or tomorrow then move on to the bushings and what not when I have a bit more time. Of course I am limited on time for the next month so may end up waiting until after Labor Day. Gonna see if I can "stretch" the springs out by compressing them against the frame with the floor jack because even if I had gotten them together the shackle angle would have been wrong and would have inverted.
Now I got to measure to make sure that the guy didn't mix up the springs and give me the FJ40 rears instead.
Now I got to measure to make sure that the guy didn't mix up the springs and give me the FJ40 rears instead.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #714
Ok well after a weekend of back and forth to Lake Tahoe to the new family cabin, the recent issues that were found while attempting to get up to my local high alpine fishing spot and the general increase of smoke coming from BeBe the realization has hit me..... I think she is in need of a heart transplant...
So sad to say that as the Toyota Elitist is screaming in my head but really I have very little money to do a full blown swap with something like a new Vortec, nor the time or technical know how. With winter coming (yes I said it.... Winter is Coming! *in my best Eddard Stark voice*) this will hold off until at earliest next spring. I have conceivably sat down and weighed the options and costs (Cost Benefit Analysis) and it keeps pointing me towards a TBI 350 swap from a pre-95 vehicle. I would love to find another 2F or even a 3FE and drop those in there but ultimately I would be looking at similar costs to doing a full TBI swap.
So the research has started on what is needed, options, troubleshooting and general inventory of engines/engine assembly in my area. Plan is to keep this below $4k if possible but ultimately I am realistic and will believe $5k.
So sad to say that as the Toyota Elitist is screaming in my head but really I have very little money to do a full blown swap with something like a new Vortec, nor the time or technical know how. With winter coming (yes I said it.... Winter is Coming! *in my best Eddard Stark voice*) this will hold off until at earliest next spring. I have conceivably sat down and weighed the options and costs (Cost Benefit Analysis) and it keeps pointing me towards a TBI 350 swap from a pre-95 vehicle. I would love to find another 2F or even a 3FE and drop those in there but ultimately I would be looking at similar costs to doing a full TBI swap.
So the research has started on what is needed, options, troubleshooting and general inventory of engines/engine assembly in my area. Plan is to keep this below $4k if possible but ultimately I am realistic and will believe $5k.
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A 3FE will be a great upgrade, and you can keep your driveline the same. There will be some electrical challenges but it's been done a few times in 40's and 60's so you won't be alone in the dark. The nice part is you can keep it Toyota.
Used motors are dirt cheap, just get it on a stand, replace every gasket and pull the head and check bearings - not that they every have any internal issues ever but just to be safe.
It will be a nice MODERATE power boost too.
Used motors are dirt cheap, just get it on a stand, replace every gasket and pull the head and check bearings - not that they every have any internal issues ever but just to be safe.
It will be a nice MODERATE power boost too.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #716
See the way that I am looking at it though, the cost of a decent 3FE would only net me a small increase in driveability (not just talking raw power of the V8 ) and like you said it would have some modifications that would need to be done to get it to work properly. The cost of that same 3FE would be close to the cost of the entire swap project and that is not counting having to replace all the gaskets and what not like you said.
With regards to the drivetrain, I am looking into doing a Ranger Overdrive which I believe will serve as the adapter (from what I have been reading). This would not require any modifications to the drivelines or anything so I would ultimately not have to touch my tranny/t-case at all. I am still researching this part but from the few that I have read that have the Ranger and the H42 it basically installs inside the GM bellhousing and acts as the adapter. I do believe it requires a special bellhousing but again I am looking into this. The benefit of doing that is that I would ultimately get an OVERDRIVE gear for some more freeway driveability. Then down the road I can swap in an H55 and have that much more.
Again still a lot of research going into this. Plan would be to either find a good 350 TBI engine assembly from a salvage yard, which from what I see runs about $500-$700 and depending on the yard will determine what is in the "engine assembly." Or I can go to Pick N Pull and take a shot on an engine from there. I would of course do some scouting first and pull a carfax off the designated vehicle VIN to see what happened and then make the determination from there. At most you are looking at $300 for the engine and then small costs for the rest, so thinking less than $500. If I play my cards right I can do it on one of their "half off" weekends and get everything that much cheaper.
With regards to the drivetrain, I am looking into doing a Ranger Overdrive which I believe will serve as the adapter (from what I have been reading). This would not require any modifications to the drivelines or anything so I would ultimately not have to touch my tranny/t-case at all. I am still researching this part but from the few that I have read that have the Ranger and the H42 it basically installs inside the GM bellhousing and acts as the adapter. I do believe it requires a special bellhousing but again I am looking into this. The benefit of doing that is that I would ultimately get an OVERDRIVE gear for some more freeway driveability. Then down the road I can swap in an H55 and have that much more.
Again still a lot of research going into this. Plan would be to either find a good 350 TBI engine assembly from a salvage yard, which from what I see runs about $500-$700 and depending on the yard will determine what is in the "engine assembly." Or I can go to Pick N Pull and take a shot on an engine from there. I would of course do some scouting first and pull a carfax off the designated vehicle VIN to see what happened and then make the determination from there. At most you are looking at $300 for the engine and then small costs for the rest, so thinking less than $500. If I play my cards right I can do it on one of their "half off" weekends and get everything that much cheaper.
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Dude I had to give away my 3fe which ran great. A full OEM gasket kit was around 350 and I'd account for maybe another grand in small parts.
My friend (@JohninFla) did the same swap you are describing (although I believe his motor is carbureted). The Ranger acts as an adapter between the H42 and Chevy bellhousing, netting around 30% overdrive. An h55f is 15% overdrive, that combination along with a mild 350 build might make a 60 capable of speeds I wouldn't feel comfortable
A ranger overdrive unit is $1300-$1600 I believe. You will have a hard time finding that used.
My friend (@JohninFla) did the same swap you are describing (although I believe his motor is carbureted). The Ranger acts as an adapter between the H42 and Chevy bellhousing, netting around 30% overdrive. An h55f is 15% overdrive, that combination along with a mild 350 build might make a 60 capable of speeds I wouldn't feel comfortable
A ranger overdrive unit is $1300-$1600 I believe. You will have a hard time finding that used.
Are you sure your 2F is toast?
If it is what about a used 2F? I think you could find one for cheap. It may not be your dream motor but it would be the easiest/cheapest way to keep Bebe on the road until you can do your dream swap whether it's a Toyota Diesel, Vortec, etc. Even a TBI swap is going to be a lot of work, your truck will be down for a long time and trust me, there will be unexpected costs and complications.
Not trying to dissuade you from the TBI if that's what you want, just spitballing.
-Ed
If it is what about a used 2F? I think you could find one for cheap. It may not be your dream motor but it would be the easiest/cheapest way to keep Bebe on the road until you can do your dream swap whether it's a Toyota Diesel, Vortec, etc. Even a TBI swap is going to be a lot of work, your truck will be down for a long time and trust me, there will be unexpected costs and complications.
Not trying to dissuade you from the TBI if that's what you want, just spitballing.
-Ed
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #719
Yeah the adapter is going to be the most expensive part of it and I realize that the ranger is something I will not be able to find used.
As to whether the 2F is toast. No I don't think it is toast but I believe her compression is pretty low and with the amount of leaks she has, the ever growing cloud of smoke on start up and while driving and the fact that every oil change she is about 2 qts low and is constantly going through coolant lends to multiple factors. Oh and there is also the recent finding of small metal shavings in the oil. That was a fun discovery let me tell you.
Ultimately she will run for a while and this not one thing that will happen tomorrow. I am also too anal retentive to just jump into something, I have to do my research unless some stellar deals comes up.
Again the premise of this will be;
1. Drive ability - the ability to pull hills easily without issue which can translate into power
2. Sustainability - the TBI parts are going to be easier to find than the 2F parts
3. Budget - this is something that will ultimately need to be cheap (aiming for less than $5k hoping for around $3k) and easy enough for me to accomplish with little "skilled" help from friends (hence no Vortec)
I am doing tons of reading and getting good info. The one thing I am having a hard time at this point with is the whole Pick N Pull vs. salvage yard engine assembly. The few costed builds I have found that have kept the engine stock have run around $3500-$4k, if I could do that or les that would be phenomenal!!!!
Oh and Ed (@cruiser enthuiser) I planning on taking you out for a beer at some point and getting to drive your truck prior (possible your 40 AND 60)!!!
As to whether the 2F is toast. No I don't think it is toast but I believe her compression is pretty low and with the amount of leaks she has, the ever growing cloud of smoke on start up and while driving and the fact that every oil change she is about 2 qts low and is constantly going through coolant lends to multiple factors. Oh and there is also the recent finding of small metal shavings in the oil. That was a fun discovery let me tell you.
Ultimately she will run for a while and this not one thing that will happen tomorrow. I am also too anal retentive to just jump into something, I have to do my research unless some stellar deals comes up.
Again the premise of this will be;
1. Drive ability - the ability to pull hills easily without issue which can translate into power
2. Sustainability - the TBI parts are going to be easier to find than the 2F parts
3. Budget - this is something that will ultimately need to be cheap (aiming for less than $5k hoping for around $3k) and easy enough for me to accomplish with little "skilled" help from friends (hence no Vortec)
I am doing tons of reading and getting good info. The one thing I am having a hard time at this point with is the whole Pick N Pull vs. salvage yard engine assembly. The few costed builds I have found that have kept the engine stock have run around $3500-$4k, if I could do that or les that would be phenomenal!!!!
Oh and Ed (@cruiser enthuiser) I planning on taking you out for a beer at some point and getting to drive your truck prior (possible your 40 AND 60)!!!
Anytime. 40's not driveable right now - needs some tires badly
. But the 60 will blow your mind.
